Trouble with cya

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swilk said:
CYA tested again with water that had been inside the house for an hour.....0.

FC 6
Calc 150
TA 250
PH 7.7

All of those were just tested with water straight from the pool.
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If you're confident that the TA value is correct then I think that might, MIGHT, be the issue. The CYA reagent is a melamine solution that has other chemicals in it to try to buffer the pH down to an acidic value (down to less than 5). The reason for this is because, at normal pool pH, the melamine-cyanurate precipitate is soluble in water up to 20ppm. So I think the high TA is interfering with the ability of the R-0013 to shift the pH of the solution and you're getting a false low value.

Here's what you do - try lowering your TA down to a normal value (whatever you try to maintain during the season) and then retest CYA when you TA is in range. If you can maintain you FC at 6ppm, then your water should be fine while you work on getting the TA down.

See how that goes. Is also suggest getting some fresh R-0013 just to have it on hand.

Good luck,
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
My TA has always been high....220-250 is what it always reads.

PH creeps up over the course of the summer and I lower it a couple of times but the TA hovers in the same range.

I've gotten the CYA test to work with the high TA readings previously.

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I will order some fresh R-0013 just for peace of mind.
 
swilk said:
My TA has always been high....220-250 is what it always reads.

PH creeps up over the course of the summer and I lower it a couple of times but the TA hovers in the same range.

I've gotten the CYA test to work with the high TA readings previously.

- - - Updated - - -

I will order some fresh R-0013 just for peace of mind.
Click to expand...

That is an unusually high TA to operate a pool at. If you don't have any sources of aeration, it's probably ok but having high pH and high TA can lead to scaling if the calcium levels get too high. It's understandable if your fill water is high TA which I think is somewhat common in Indiana. I would recommend lowering it if at all possible.

Ok, let us know if the newer reagents help. I would not add anymore CYA until you figure this out because you don't want to overdose your CYA unless you can afford to dump out water.

Good luck,
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
If you're curious, just enter your TA, pH and CH into the poolmath calculator, then look down where it says "CSI". There you will see the effects of either/all of those numbers have on influencing your CSI level which is very important to the health of your plaster. Not to mention (as Matt highlighted) on occasion, that if some readings are allowed to go extremely outside the recommended levels range, they can effect other test readings. Lowering TA will take some time, but I think you will find it to be not only better for your CSI level, but also will help pH stay more constant. Follow the instructions on the page I gave you in post #25 and in time it will definitely help.
 
Just a quick update, the weather has been pretty cool here so I haven't really done anything with it. I did measure yesterday and even though the salt cell hasn't been on in a week there was still a free chlorine count of about 2 parts per million. I brought in a water sample let it get to room temperature inside the house over the course of several hours and tested cya again. Still 0. I did a second test and use a little bit of the powder residue from the cya can and put it into about a quart of water. Then I measured. Cya measured off the chart. That should suggest that my solution is good.

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Also, I went ahead and added some acid lower my PH down to about 7.1.
 
Okay, so here shortly you're going to need to add some stabilizer as I suspect an FC of 2 won't last long at all with the sun, even if the water is still chilly. I'm assuming you haven't had time to lower the TA as Matt suggested earlier, so keep that in mind as well as the season progresses. For now, consider adding stabilizer for a low target of 20-30 and maintaining your FC around 3-5 ppm to avoid a full-out algae bloom. As summer approaches, you can always increase those later if necessary.
 

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