Full disclosure: I have some color blindness (mostly red/green). With that in mind, I much prefer the comparator block that comes from Taylor (9058 in attached pic). I have the one from TF Testkits also and find it much less useful. Even if you’re not color challenged, with the TF kit, the scale increment from 7.8 to 8.2 is very course compared to the Taylor. The zone in between those increments is where I want more resolution.
At least over 7.8, I would lower to 7.5 following instructions to lower from 7.8 to 7.5 so you do not over shoot. Also may want to look at your level TA if you lower TA it will also lower PH. I have the opposite problem my rain water and tap water are closer to 7.2 so I adjust up to 7.5 after SLAM. I actually use baking soda to bring my TA to 90 which usually gives me PH of 7.5 and then it really does not move the rest of the summer unless I add a lot of water or excessive rain. Using "Old Pool Math" (link to page at the bottom of the TFP page) 16000 gal pool 7.8 to 7.5 add 15 oz. of 31.45% muriatic acid. If your muriatic acid is a different strength there is a drop down box to select the concentration you may have.
When the PH is in between the 7.8 and 8.2, you average the two giving you an 8.0
On the CYA I’m still barely seeing a visible ️. You probably should’ve added another drop or two until it completely disappeared from view. If you are using stabilized chlorine granules or pucks that will gradually raise your CYA. Like me you will eventually have to go to unstabilized chlorine to keep your CYA from going too high. The higher above 50ppm your CYA the more chlorine you will need to add to your pool.
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Welcome to TFP! For a wealth of pool care information please check out our free Pool School. If you are in need of specific help then we encourage you to Register and ask us here in the forum!