I have RF Base r.3.00 ID:5EIC which I believe is what you're after.
Additionally, I have Main Software 4.45 and AquaPod r1.13
Additionally, I have Main Software 4.45 and AquaPod r1.13
Tristar 900 VS and Prologic
- Thread starter RSpear
- Start date
Spear,
When I run my SPA/PUMP/HEATER-ON functions, my Filter Pump RPM is running at 2950.. My maximum rpm is 3450, so 2950/3450= 85.5%. I have an "ecostar", but I'm pretty sure your tristar needs to be running 80-85% RPM too.
Here is what I would do:
-Write down every serial #/Model # and Software level and Rev Level of everything you have
-(this might be painful) But call Hayward Tech Support and get them to verify that everything you have WILL INDEED work when properly configured.
-REAL IMPORTANT - ask them if there have been any technical service bulletins or product updates on any and all of the pump, prologic, etc ? You can have what you call the latest tech service manual, but it may have left out a very important update that is the "missing link" to your problem(s).
To conclude, the main thing is you want to make sure that everything you have will indeed function together. If so, that you have the very latest in all product updates, then you should be good to go.
Another option is to post your general service area location and see if anyone in the TFP forum might know a good tech/company that can solve this for you.
Finally, it's the very basic step, but if you have 2 wires the same color and they are in conduit from point A to B, just make sure you are working w the same "green" wire on both ends. It can be something that simple of a correction to make a game changer. We are all pulling for you and best of luck up there.
tstex
When I run my SPA/PUMP/HEATER-ON functions, my Filter Pump RPM is running at 2950.. My maximum rpm is 3450, so 2950/3450= 85.5%. I have an "ecostar", but I'm pretty sure your tristar needs to be running 80-85% RPM too.
Here is what I would do:
-Write down every serial #/Model # and Software level and Rev Level of everything you have
-(this might be painful) But call Hayward Tech Support and get them to verify that everything you have WILL INDEED work when properly configured.
-REAL IMPORTANT - ask them if there have been any technical service bulletins or product updates on any and all of the pump, prologic, etc ? You can have what you call the latest tech service manual, but it may have left out a very important update that is the "missing link" to your problem(s).
To conclude, the main thing is you want to make sure that everything you have will indeed function together. If so, that you have the very latest in all product updates, then you should be good to go.
Another option is to post your general service area location and see if anyone in the TFP forum might know a good tech/company that can solve this for you.
Finally, it's the very basic step, but if you have 2 wires the same color and they are in conduit from point A to B, just make sure you are working w the same "green" wire on both ends. It can be something that simple of a correction to make a game changer. We are all pulling for you and best of luck up there.
tstex
Have you looked at the diagnostics menu on the pump? It tells you if comm bus is online and also has an event log.
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Yeah, I've been through diagnostics there's no mention of comm bus.
Spent an hour on the phone with the Hayward tech. He is says everything is hooked up correctly so he's baffled too. He's coming out this week.
Spent an hour on the phone with the Hayward tech. He is says everything is hooked up correctly so he's baffled too. He's coming out this week.
Had the Hayward tech guy out this week. Turns out, it was just a bad connection for the most part. The pump still isn't ramping up when I turn the heater up, I have to turn the heater up then turn filter speed 1 up. Not really ideal long term as the filter won't turn down once the desired heat is reached.
I guess I'll start a new thread for the heater and prologic, as they aren't communicating either.
(I will start with replacing the cable first though lol)
Who would have thought switching a pump (Hayward ecostar to Tristar) would wreak so much havoc?
I guess I'll start a new thread for the heater and prologic, as they aren't communicating either.
(I will start with replacing the cable first though lol)
Who would have thought switching a pump (Hayward ecostar to Tristar) would wreak so much havoc?
Spear
There should be absolutely nothing diff when it comes to programming from the Eco to tristar. They are virtually the same pumps but the seals in tristar are more robust and the controller was allegedly improved in design. Tri also has a 4 yr warranty (if installed by "pool pro"), but that has nothing to do w functionality. If you're getting differences, something is wrong.
There should be absolutely nothing diff when it comes to programming from the Eco to tristar. They are virtually the same pumps but the seals in tristar are more robust and the controller was allegedly improved in design. Tri also has a 4 yr warranty (if installed by "pool pro"), but that has nothing to do w functionality. If you're getting differences, something is wrong.
I don't have a heater name option or disable allow low speed option. Heater 1 is enabled, heater 1 cooldown is disabled and heater 2 extend is enabled.
The Hayward tech set them as 2070, 2415, 2760, and 3105 (from filter 1 to 4 respectively).
However, I temporarily have filter 1 set to 2415 in order to run the heater. (There's no option to bump up to the next filter speed like the used to be).
I just want to heat the pool to the temp set on the prologic instead of the temp that is manually set on the heater. Otherwise why did I even purchase the prologic controller?
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You're going to have to go through all configuration and settings to make sure that everything is set correctly.