Hi All,I just moved to Australia which, for those who don't know, is a country that's somehow right next to the sun. I'm pretty new to pool ownership and I've found that it's very difficult to keep chlorine levels up probably because the UV index is so high here. As a result, me going away for a week resulted in a recent bad outbreak of algae and I'm searching for a way to improve sanitisation of my pool. My question relates to the type of chlorine I should use. I mainly use Trichlor but I gather the disadvantage of this is that the Cyanuric acid levels will creep up over time. It seems to me that a better strategy would be to establish a Cyanuric acid level using Cyanuric acid powder (of, say, 50ppm) and then use unstabilised chlorine (ie calcium hypochlorite) from then on. Are there any disadvantages to this strategy?Any advice is much appreciated!
Trichlor vs Unstabilised Chlorine + Cyanuric Acid
- Thread starter HoneyBadger1978
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,011
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome to the forum! 
You are correct about the overuse of stabilized chlorine (i.e. tablets/pucks). Cal-Hypo is fine in some cases (short term), but generally poses a problem for increasing the CH too much. So once you know your CYA is in good shape, stay away from those. In the states we rely on liquid chlorine - aka regular bleach. It contains no stabilizers and works very well. The important aspect of keeping algae away is to ensure the FC is always balanced to that CYA as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That's key. So if you have algae, you first want to perform a SLAM Process until you pass the 3 criteria outlined on that page. Try to find a local vendor who has regular bleach and you'll be fine. Others from your area ill chime in soon. Make sure to read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page and save those Vital Links below in my signature.
You are correct about the overuse of stabilized chlorine (i.e. tablets/pucks). Cal-Hypo is fine in some cases (short term), but generally poses a problem for increasing the CH too much. So once you know your CYA is in good shape, stay away from those. In the states we rely on liquid chlorine - aka regular bleach. It contains no stabilizers and works very well. The important aspect of keeping algae away is to ensure the FC is always balanced to that CYA as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That's key. So if you have algae, you first want to perform a SLAM Process until you pass the 3 criteria outlined on that page. Try to find a local vendor who has regular bleach and you'll be fine. Others from your area ill chime in soon. Make sure to read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page and save those Vital Links below in my signature.Thanks Pat, that's good advice. Liquid chlorine is sold here too. Probably not as much bang-for-the-buck from a chemistry perspective but I guess it'll save me issues with CH longer term. I'm unsure as to exactly what my CYA levels are as different types of test strips give me different results. I think it's around 20-40ppm which seems consistent with how fast my FC level drops after I add chlorine.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,526
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You need to get the Clear Choice Labs fresh water test kit which is available in Australia. You are not able to follow TFPC methods using test strips. You need accurate and repeatable testing of your water chemistry.
If you have used Trichlor tabs for any period of time I'm going to be very surprised if your CYA is only 40.
As Allen stated, test strips are almost useless for accurate information so you may as well toss them in the trash bin.
You want a proper test kit like this - Total Pool Water Testing Kit, Fresh Water Clear Choice Labs
As Allen stated, test strips are almost useless for accurate information so you may as well toss them in the trash bin.
You want a proper test kit like this - Total Pool Water Testing Kit, Fresh Water Clear Choice Labs
Well, I've only owned the pool about 3 months and have used both Trichlor and Unstabilised Chlorine. Hard to know what the previous owner did though!
Given my free chlorine levels drop very rapidly after adding chlorine, would it be fair to say that the CYA is likely to be low?
I'm seriously considering converting to a salt water pool at some point. It just seems like it might be a better option...
Brad_C
Well-known member
- Nov 15, 2018
- 188
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Monarch ESC24 / ESC7000
Likely. I'm lucky in that my local pool joint gives me test figures that correlate pretty well with mine. Why not try your local and get at least a stabiliser level while you wait for a real test kit to arrive?
Just do it. In the mean time, Bunnings 15L liquid seems about the best value. If you do go SWG, my experience with Bunnings salt has not been good. In fact my experience with Bunnings pool stuff in general hasn't been great, but their chlorine is cheap.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,526
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
My bet is your CYA is high and you still have algae which is eating up your CL.
It all starts with the test kit so that you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to determine if it is algae or UV that is eating your FC. Then you will know what actions to take.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,211
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
HB,
I agree with Allen and others that your CYA is very likely too high... this could be interfering with the disinfection properties of your chlorine which could allow algae to be present and consuming your chlorine. Sooner or later this will cause other unpleasant effects such as turbidity and green spots on your pool wall and can even result in an algae bloom. It also means other water-borne pathogens could be unchecked. Checking our Pool Math Calculator it appears you are adding 1.3 ppm of CYA per trichlor tablet. How many tablets per week are you using? CYA degrades very, very slowly so you can get a rough idea of your CYA level by multiplying the number of tablets times 1.3 ppm. I've never been successful to get test strips to show any CYA. The only reliable way is the test kit. Hopefully, you'll be able to get on soon.
As pointed out above you should not use calcium hypochlorite long term as this will increase your calcuim levels and can result in precipitation of calcium deposits. I use trichlor only for times when I'm away on travel. This also helps maintain the CYA level so I've not ever had to add stabilizer. After travel, I check the CYA level with the test kit to be sure it's not too high. I've been doing TFP method for several years with this minor adaptation. Pool has been sparkling gorgeous 100% of the time. Bleach and acid are the only chemicals I use unless travel of over 5 days requires trichlor. For less than 5 days I just raise the FC level with bleach to about 20 ppm. When I get home the FC level is back down to normal. My costs are about $10/month. Your costs will be higher due to the larger pool and extreme sun but should still be very reasonable. Plus you have the added assurance your pool is disinfected properly.
Welcome to the site and good luck!
Chris
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,598
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V25
Geday HB and welcome aboard, one of the fundamentals of TFP is self testing and for that us Aussies are a bit limited. The best kits we can get are as mentioned previously from CCL - Total Pool Water Testing Kit, Fresh Water Clear Choice Labs Most local pool shops sell an Aussie Gold 4in1 which has a good pH comparator. I’ve put mine through the band saw and cut the OTO FC test off, you need the FAS-DPD FC kit from CCL. If your up to it you can import a Taylor K2006 or K2006C and a Speedstir from PoolVacParts, the Speedstir is worth gold; http://www.poolvacparts.com/
Bunnings (our version of HomeDepo) is the best or cheapest for chlorine and acid but the LPS aren’t far off, often they buy acid and chlorine in bulk and are competitive. A SWCG is really worth the cost, I wouldn’t be without one.
Bunnings (our version of HomeDepo) is the best or cheapest for chlorine and acid but the LPS aren’t far off, often they buy acid and chlorine in bulk and are competitive. A SWCG is really worth the cost, I wouldn’t be without one.
Thanks for everyone's great advice. I went to the pool shop and got my water tested. They said my pool water looks 'pretty good' but my CYA was tested at 90ppm. I've stopped using Trichlor and started using liquid chlorine, aiming to add enough to get 6ppm. I've dosed with algaecide so hopefully that sorts things out. Longer term, I plan on converting to salt.
It's all a steep learning curve!
It's all a steep learning curve!
- Sep 23, 2015
- 1,598
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V25
Discontinue using the algacide and be more diligent with your FC levels. If you follow the SLAM Process proceadure and maintain [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] levels there is no need for algacide or phosphate removers, both of which will react with and use some of your available FC.
If your CYA is really 90 (I’m guessing even higher) then the minimium FC you should maintain is 7. To keep it there your target should be even higher per the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Please post what algecide they sold you, including the ingredients. Some algecides are actually worse for your pool.
You need to decide if you are following our methods or the pool shop. They are generally not comparable, like the algecide. Algecide is used by us in certain circumstances to prevent algae, not to remove it.
Please post what algecide they sold you, including the ingredients. Some algecides are actually worse for your pool.
You need to decide if you are following our methods or the pool shop. They are generally not comparable, like the algecide. Algecide is used by us in certain circumstances to prevent algae, not to remove it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,526
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your problem with pool store testing and CYA 90 is you need to target a FC of 10-12 according to [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Most pool store testing can only test up to FC 10. And using liquid chlorine you need to check your FC every other day or so. Will you be running to the pool store every day or two?
Right now you have an unmanageable situation to keep your pool algae free. You need to be able to do your own testing with a FAS/DPD FC test that tests up to FC 50. Then you can maintain a CYA 90 pool using liquid chlorine.
Even then you should figure out how to drain or dilute at least 50% to get your CYA to 50 or below.
Right now you have an unmanageable situation to keep your pool algae free. You need to be able to do your own testing with a FAS/DPD FC test that tests up to FC 50. Then you can maintain a CYA 90 pool using liquid chlorine.
Even then you should figure out how to drain or dilute at least 50% to get your CYA to 50 or below.