Tracking Drop Test and SWG Salt Levels Separately

[KevMo]

I would like to be able to track the salt levels I get from the Taylor drop test and what my Pentair IC60 reports. They are 800+ ppm apart at times. Currently the drop test consistently shows 2,800 and the SWG reports 3,450. The PoolMath gives the warning that my salt is outside the recommended range. Earlier this year before I turned rhe SWG on I raised the salt level to 3,600 based on the drop test. The SWG reported that the salt level was too high and it would not generate chlorine. I posted this in the SWG topic a couple of months ago. The suggestion is that my flow switch & sensor could be bad, but given the replacement cost it might not be worth it, if it still worked.

If they were tracked separately I could know both when my SWG was happy and get a better insight into the actual salt level.

 

[PoolStored]

You can put it in as a note.

 

[BowserB]

I would like to be able to track the salt levels I get from the Taylor drop test and what my Pentair IC60 reports. They are 800+ ppm apart at times. Currently the drop test consistently shows 2,800 and the SWG reports 3,450. The PoolMath gives the warning that my salt is outside the recommended range. Earlier this year before I turned rhe SWG on I raised the salt level to 3,600 based on the drop test. The SWG reported that the salt level was too high and it would not generate chlorine. I posted this in the SWG topic a couple of months ago. The suggestion is that my flow switch & sensor could be bad, but given the replacement cost it might not be worth it, if it still worked.

If they were tracked separately I could know both when my SWG was happy and get a better insight into the actual salt level.

I see differences too, with my IC40 and Taylor tests, although I find that as the salt level is at or near the optimum (3600) the IC40 reports lower than the Taylor drop test. When the salt drops to say 3400 according to the IC40, Taylor may report 3200. I'm pretty careful with my drop tests, so I have confidence there. As I recall, a couple of the longtime experts here have suggested to not worry as long as the SWCG lights up as "Good" and Salt Status in the app says "Good." I try to test once a week.
I see you're in Montgomery, so you've probably had as much water loss and dilution due to rain as I have in Katy--maybe more--so it's a frequent exercise in keeping the chemistry up. I went from near perfect to low salt, low chlorine (I shoot for 6+ppm), low CYA, high pH, and low TA in a day! (Storm drains got some nice pool water, though.) I get my salt and baking soda (13.5lb Hill Country Fare brand) from HEB. Muriatic acid from Home Depot or Lowes. CYA price seems strangely volatile with sometimes Amazon having a bargain price for Clorox brand and others my local Ace is best. Go figure.

 

[pjt]

baking soda

Hey neighbor, I'm surprised you need baking soda. Most non-trichlor pools will never need it. I'm a little NW of you and our fill water TA is 330. What do you have in Katy?