Total Alkalinity

Walter2050

Silver Supporter
Jul 11, 2021
107
Montgomery Tx
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
On my Taylor Test kit my TA read about 80
Went to Leslie’s at it registered 73.
It it possible for there to be that much difference ?

Current readings from Taylor kit Fc 3.8
TA 80
PH 7.6
CH 230
Leslie‘s numbers FC 4.23
TA 73
PH 7.7
CH 236
CA 65
Copper 0.3
Phosphates 493
 
Trust your own test results. Those numbers aren’t even actually that far off. It’s more fun when the pool store says something like 40 and tells you to add “pH Up” but your own tests say you’re at 80 and should do no such thing.

Letting the pool store test will just cause you confusion and doubt.

I noticed you didn’t post CYA results for your own test - did you just not run that test or do you have a smaller Taylor kit that doesn’t include the CYA test? If so let us know which kit you have and we can advise what additional items you might need.

Edit: I see in your signature you have a K-2006, so you should have the CYA test.
 
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Yes. Your Taylor result will be more accurate.
Trust your own test results. Those numbers aren’t even actually that far off. It’s more fun when the pool store says something like 40 and tells you to add “pH Up” but your own tests say you’re at 80 and should do no such thing.

Letting the pool store test will just cause you confusion and doubt.

I noticed you didn’t post CYA results for your own test - did you just not run that test or do you have a smaller Taylor kit that doesn’t include the CYA test? If so let us know which kit you have and we can advise what additional items you might need.

Edit: I see in your signature you have a K-2006, so you should have the CYA test.
My cya on my taylor kit was about the same as there readings . I switched to liquid after see the cya results
Do I need to raise my TA from 80 to 90 or 100 before I try to lower my PH ?
 
Do I need to raise my TA from 80 to 90 or 100 before I try to lower my PH ?
No reason to try to lower a pH of 7.6. Anything between 7.0-8 is generally fine, as long as your CSI stays in line.

Use PoolMath and turn on CSI tracking in settings if you aren’t already.
 
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No reason to try to lower a pH of 7.6. Anything between 7.0-8 is generally fine, as long as your CSI stays in line.

Use PoolMath and turn on CSI tracking in settings if you aren’t already.
Thank you sir . Only a 3 month old pool owner so pretty new at this . Try not to laugh but what is CSI? And what does it do ?. I do use the pool math calculator and just entered the numbers and CSI was 0.23
 
Try not to laugh but what is CSI? And what does it do ?.
Calcium Saturation Index. As a new pool owner, typically nothing that is first on your "learn-all-about" items. Keep your pH under control and 99% of your issues are good. But the article below will help explain it to you. If you still have questions let us know.


 
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Welcome to the club! This place and the folks in it will help keep your pool sparkling and clean. Glad you found us.

Do I need to raise my TA from 80 to 90 or 100 before I try to lower my PH ?

That seems like a waste of time and chemicals, because pH / TA are related and generally work opposite the way you've described. For example, if your pH gets too high, there's risk of scale forming on pool equipment, as well as some other minor issues around water comfort and chlorine effectiveness. The most common fix we recommend for high pH is adding muriatic acid to the pool, which lowers pH and also neutralizes some TA. The remaining TA in the water will naturally force the pH back up until it finds equilibrium. The higher the TA, the more acid it takes to drop pH, and it'll rebound faster.

If, by accident you added too much acid (lowered the pH as in your question), there is risk of etching your pool plaster and corroding metal parts in your equipment. It also can be very uncomfortable to swim in. But there's no need to fear, because there's a common fix: aerating the pool will speed up the natural rise in pH without adding chemicals.

Basically every pool is different and will want to find its own equilibrium between TA and pH. But raising TA to drop the pH is like this old Greek guy I read about trying to push a boulder uphill... Raise TA, add acid to lower pH which also lowers TA... Then a few days later you notice the pH is back up too high so you add TA so you can drop the pH which starts the feedback loop.
 

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Welcome to the club! This place and the folks in it will help keep your pool sparkling and clean. Glad you found us.



That seems like a waste of time and chemicals, because pH / TA are related and generally work opposite the way you've described. For example, if your pH gets too high, there's risk of scale forming on pool equipment, as well as some other minor issues around water comfort and chlorine effectiveness. The most common fix we recommend for high pH is adding muriatic acid to the pool, which lowers pH and also neutralizes some TA. The remaining TA in the water will naturally force the pH back up until it finds equilibrium. The higher the TA, the more acid it takes to drop pH, and it'll rebound faster.

If, by accident you added too much acid (lowered the pH as in your question), there is risk of etching your pool plaster and corroding metal parts in your equipment. It also can be very uncomfortable to swim in. But there's no need to fear, because there's a common fix: aerating the pool will speed up the natural rise in pH without adding chemicals.

Basically every pool is different and will want to find its own equilibrium between TA and pH. But raising TA to drop the pH is like this old Greek guy I read about trying to push a boulder uphill... Raise TA, add acid to lower pH which also lowers TA... Then a few days later you notice the pH is back up too high so you add TA so you can drop the pH which starts the feedback loop.
Thank you sir . I’m blessed that I have learned so much from all of y’all
 
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