To Test or Not to Test?

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A

Amanda14

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 16, 2014
167
East Northport, NY
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital PPC4 (RC-52)
Hi. I typically open my own pool but I received a price ($175) with no chemicals from a company and had them do it. They were puzzled when they saw 20 gallons of bleach by my pool and that I wouldn't let them add shock. When I told them why, they were still in disbelief. Anyway, my question is does it make sense to test now and also even run my SWG? I have the aquabot in the pool cleaning the silt, leaves etc (there aren't a ton, which btw thank you for cooler temps since this is the first time we have opened and we could see the bottom) so I was wondering, do I just let the filter run continuously for a day or two, add my bleach (which I have done) and then test a day or two later after a backwash or three? I know I need to add salt since it said when I hooked up the SWG to test it that it is at 2600PPM and needs 100lbs, but then I turned it off as I thought just let the pump run for a night or two and then turn it on. Interested in feedback on the tests and running the SWG now. I suppose I could turn it on and put it on boost also since it will only help in the generation.

Thanks and welcome back from winter!!!!!!!!!!
 
Oh I'm somewhat familiar as I have been on this site before many times and have received terrific advice from folks such as yourself. I busted out my old generic OTO and PH tester and as I expected the Chlorine is sky high (which I am fine with) as is the PH. My goal is to continue to have the bot cleaning, brush the sides, let the filter run and then run a full test tomorrow.
 
Oh, okay Amanda. In that case, to get more specific with your two questions .....
my question is does it make sense to test now and also even run my SWG?
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Definitely let it mix and confirm your current levels. Typically pH, FC, and CYA require the most immediate attention. Running your SWG? If you need to SLAM, not really needed. You can wait until you've completed your opening process and resolved any potential chemistry/algae issues before cranking it back up. That's your call though.

do I just let the filter run continuously for a day or two, add my bleach (which I have done) and then test a day or two later after a backwash or three?
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If you need to SLAM of course the pump will be on 24/7. But if not, then you should be able to program your setting like normal. Certainly doesn't hurt to be a little more aggressive at first though just to help get the pool back up-to-speed in case there are some organics hanging around.

Hope that helps.
 
You should have run a complete set of tests before one thing was put in your pool. Test first, then add if anything is necessary. You should have picked that up in your first couple of posts.

That's all water under the bridge. Test and report complete numbers and we'll help to get you up and running correctly.

Save your $175 next Spring.
 
Have your own salt test to confirm your salt reading. The SWG isn't always accurate and you don't want to add more if its not needed. Also, if the water is cold (like 60 degrees) SWG don't work that well usually. So don't rely on it alone (esp without testing!) to maintain the FC level or you may be in for a surprise.

Taylor's K-1766 salt test kit is an excellent choice.
 
Actually the 175 is money well spent for me because it saves me time and what took the three guys 40 minutes would have taken me hrs. Plus if something needed repair like pic or other plumbing they could have done it. My pump is 17 years old and I always have issues with the connections so for me the 175 was a fantastic spend
 
Hi. So my results are as follows after testing just now:
FC - 18
Calcium - 75
TA - 70
CYA - 10

If have always had issues with the CYA being low. I haven't turned on the SWG because I figured I would allow the sun to take down the FC number. Any input?
 
Holy Moley that's a high FC # for your CYA. How in the world did it get so high?! Definitely add CYA today! I might even spring for liquid, if it were me.
 

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No, that will increase the FC, and you don't need that. You need the CYA, (stabilizer) granules or liquid. Walmart and other big box stores carry it. Check the pool calculator to see how much to add, or ask here......
 
That will take too long and add FC. If you don't want to buy liquid CYA ($$$) the get the solid kind in a sock and squeeze it in the water in front of a return until it's gone.
 
Good morning Amanda. :handwave: I would increase CYA, sure. But to know how much stabilizer to add, first ask yourself.. "How does the water look?" "Is there any discoloration, algae, or cloudiness?" If there is any doubt, you might only want to increase to a CYA of 30 (for now) and manage FC with bleach in case you need to SLAM. You can always do an OCLT as well to confirm right? Now if you go through those questions and believe your water to be fine, certainly shoot for a CYA of 70 for your SWG. Because your CYA is currently low, that FC will probably disappear quickly today if you have some good sun.

I didn't see your pH reading on this last set of tests, so that would be good to know to have the whole picture. Hope this all helps. Have a great day there in NY.
 
Pool is crystal clear actually and I have some stabilizer that I can put in a sock in the past that has never really moved the cya needle. I had to come to work so I added 4 trichlor tabs in the float and will do stabilizer when I get home. The high fc reading will come down since it's supposed to be 76 today and then will rain all day tomorrow also. I know that the pool won't be swam in for a number of weeks so I am ok watching it. PH reading was high also. So at Walmart is the stabilizer just called stabilizer or is their a brand name?
 
Looks good. I expect your CYA will increase as your FC lowers to its target level. Keep an eye on those to make sure they are balanced together to keep your water clear. Next time you post an update, it would be good too see how your pH is doing. Have a nice day.
 

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