Time to take control

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jobybett

jobybett

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Mar 15, 2017
106
Mission Viejo, CA
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hello, TFP

I've made few posts here and there, but now its time to take control of my pool as the PB has screwed it up, and I feel like I understand enough to do it myself, that said I'd like a quick pointer in the order to do things.

Background is that I'm new to owning a pool, we bought the house 8 months ago, but we believe that the pool is >10 years old, we had a PB look after it for us, they come once a week and throw more pucks in the floater, that's about it. I've had a green bottom twice in that time... both times they come and throw a few gallons of Chlorine in, some algiside, and brush like crazy for a bit until its gone...

New test kit came today K-2006 I'm confident that I did the test ok, I did the CYA twice once with 100% pool and once with 50/50 pool/tap as in the instructions to get the accurate value.

FC 3.2
CC 0.4
PH 7.6
TA 110
CH 475
CYA 180

So I know my FC is low, and my CH and CYA are way high, from what I've read I need to drain about 60% of the pool (according to pool math) and add some chlorine to bring the FC up. I'm also getting a quote on RO to "clean" the water as I'm in SoCal and the company is close, I found that thread (thanks TFP!) I also saw the threads on floating pools, I live on the top of a hill, so I'm fairly confident the the water table is lower than the pool, especially with only a 50% drain if it comes to it.

Now for the question, I want to get rid of the pucks and add a SWG, that's going to take me a week or so to order and install, I'll remove the floater and start using liquid chlorine straight away, but should I drain the pool before/during/after adding the SWG or does it not really matter?

Is that a good plan of action, did I miss anything?

thanks!
 
J,

Good job on getting a great test kit... :goodjob:

You can add the SWG anytime, as it won't really matter when. I would not add the salt or turn the SWCG on until after you get your CYA down.

Keep in mind with a SWCG you want your CYA to be 70 or 80...

After your get your CYA corrected, then add the salt and bring your FC up with Liquid Chlorine before turning on the SWCG. You do this because SWCG's are good at maintaining an FC level, but often struggle with going from an FC of 0 and taking it up to 6 ppm.

Sizing is very important when buying a SWCG. We always recommend buying a cell that is rated 2 x or bigger than your pool volume... This is because cells are rated when running at 100% 24/7. Not what you really want to do.

Thanks for posting and you will love your new saltwater pool..

Jim R.
 
The drain can happen whenever. But don't add the salt for the SWG and then drain it. The actual installation can also happen before or after the drain. It just won't work until the salt level is right.

Use a 10 ml sample and only one scoop of powder and multiply by.5 for your FC tests -- it saves reagents, which is a pretty good reason since you'll be maintaining 14-17 FC until things get under control.

If the water is currently clear, I'd wait until this heat wave passes to drain. You'll want the pool.
 
Thanks guys, yes I'm planning on the Aquapure PLC1400 that's rated to 40k, with my pool at ~22k I figured I'd be ok especially with the inteliflow VS letting me run for longer periods of time. I would have gone with the IC60 and be done, but I really want the automation integration, and I can't swap out the Aqualink 2.0 as I only just got it.... Doh

Thanks for the tip on the FC test, I'll do that.
 
Just got a quote back for the RO for a 20k pool would be $600, given that it would cost me ~$65 to replace 10k I think I'll go with the refill option... I know I should think about the environment but...
 
Ok, next question, I just bought the k-2006 kit, but not the salt version, whats the best way to add the salt test to the kit?
 
J,

I hope you bought the 2006"C" version as it has larger bottles of reagents than the cheaper 2006...

A salt test is not included in any of the test kits that we recommend. I use the Taylor K-1766 which is a drop based salt test kit.

You really don't need to use a salt tester on a routine basis like you do with the K-2006C or the TF-100.

You need to run an initial test to determine how much salt is already in your pool water, so you will know how much to add. And to test when you think that the SWCG is not reporting the correct salt information.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Not sure if I got the 'C' version or not, I'm guessing not...

As ever thanks for the great info

As a side note the PB came today and I asked him about the CYA, as expected was clueless, so I had him run the test, he came up with a value of 50 against my 180... so going to get the local pool shop to run their own and see who is right, though I'm fairly sure I know the answer.

Thanks!
 
Quick update, took a sample to Leslie's (yes I read all the debate threads, well some of them lol) and their test agree with me, CYA is well over 100 (they did not do the extended range test) so my PB CYA test is junk.

However they also found 400ppb of Phosphates... as I'm going to drain 50% water anyway should I treat it? If so what with? I assume not the exceptionally expensive stuff they tried to sell me?
 

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J,

Do you notice that your new Taylor 2006 test kit does not test for Phosphates??? That is because high Phosphates are a pool store money maker, not something you should worry about. If you keep your CYA and FC in range per the TFP process then you will never get algae, phosphates or not...

What you are finding is exactly why we do not recommend that people go to the pool store to have their water tested. Their tests will almost always point you in the direction of one of their "Magic" chemicals that will fix everything... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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