I have added 140lbs of pool salt to my pool over the last 5 weeks. The SWG registers the salt at a higher level then about a week or so later is drops. Does it sound like it is time for a new salt cell? This salt cell is five years old. My FC levels are fine.
Time to replace salt cell?
- Thread starter LisaDLu
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,649
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do you have an independent salinity test kit like the Taylor K1766? Never rely on the SWCG readout for actual salinity in your pool water.
At the least, take a sample to a pool store and get the salinity checked.
What is the brand and model of your SWCG? Can you add that to your signature?
Salt does not get removed from your pool water unless you physically drain out the pool water and replace it with fresh water.
At the least, take a sample to a pool store and get the salinity checked.
What is the brand and model of your SWCG? Can you add that to your signature?
Salt does not get removed from your pool water unless you physically drain out the pool water and replace it with fresh water.
It is a Haword Turbo Cell T-15. I do not have a salinity test kit. We just took out the salt cell and it has scale/salt build up on it (never has in the past). Most of it knocked off with a screwdriver and the garden hose so it might be more salt than anything. My husband is out there trying to clean it out before re-installing and see if that helps.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,649
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I know that Hayward SWCG systems have a diagnostics readout that can be done. We have folks on the forum that are very conversant in letting you know what is going on if you post the diagnostics data.
Your SWCG should not scale up if you maintain your water chemistry such that the CSI is at 0 or just negative. Enter your water chemistry data from your K2006 into PoolMath and it shows your CSI.
Your SWCG should not scale up if you maintain your water chemistry such that the CSI is at 0 or just negative. Enter your water chemistry data from your K2006 into PoolMath and it shows your CSI.
My readings from yesterday 11/24 were:
PH - 7.7
TA - 80
FC - 5.5
CC - 0
CYA - 70
CH 625
Salt - 2700 (it was 2600 this morning)
temp - 62
CSI - 0
- - - Updated - - -
We reinstalled the salt cell and it is still blinking "check salt cell" and "no flow". I think it is probably time for the cell to be changed. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know. Thank you!!!
PH - 7.7
TA - 80
FC - 5.5
CC - 0
CYA - 70
CH 625
Salt - 2700 (it was 2600 this morning)
temp - 62
CSI - 0
- - - Updated - - -
We reinstalled the salt cell and it is still blinking "check salt cell" and "no flow". I think it is probably time for the cell to be changed. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know. Thank you!!!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,649
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
To get scale on the SWCG the CSI has to be positive for some time. So I suspect your pH and/or TA has been higher. I add acid when my pH hits 7.6 to lower it to 7.2. TA of 70-80. CH ranges from 300 at initial fill to 1000 ppm just prior to a drain/refill.
Here are the diagnostics. It is not showing me the normal salt count and temperature as usual now so I don't know where those fall into this list:
9P
-2.80
AL - 0
r 1.59
L - 15
2.70
18
26.5
4.78
9P
-2.80
AL - 0
r 1.59
L - 15
2.70
18
26.5
4.78
2.70.......Average salinity in grams per liter (2,700 ppm)
18..........Temperature in Celcius.
26.5.......Volts
4.78.......Amps
9P..........Percentage setting.
-2.80......Instant salinity in grams per liter.
AL - 0.....Box is Aquarite.
r 1.59.....Software revision
L - 15.....Cell size is T-15.
The box got switched to metric. Go to 18 and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto. The 18 should change to 64 degrees Fahrenheit.
Usually, the change is due to a loose display board. If you remove and reinstall the display board, that should help.
How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube
Then, turn turn the system back on and recheck all diagnostics. Then back off for a few minutes, then back on and recheck all diagnostics. This will reverse the polarity.
The instant salinity will take a few seconds to stabilize. Note the stable number.
The instant salinity should be the same in both polarities.
If the instant salinity is way different in both polarities, the cell is bad.
Then divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity (from a reliable test kit). If the result is less than 0.75, the cell is bad.
When the system first turns on, the no flow should blink for about 30 seconds and then go out. If it stays solid, then you have a flow problem or a bad flow switch.
At 2,700 ppm, the check salt warning will go on but the cell will still work.
If the check cell light is blinking, it's a reminder to check the cell for scale. Reset by holding the little black button down for about 5 seconds.
18..........Temperature in Celcius.
26.5.......Volts
4.78.......Amps
9P..........Percentage setting.
-2.80......Instant salinity in grams per liter.
AL - 0.....Box is Aquarite.
r 1.59.....Software revision
L - 15.....Cell size is T-15.
The box got switched to metric. Go to 18 and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto. The 18 should change to 64 degrees Fahrenheit.
Usually, the change is due to a loose display board. If you remove and reinstall the display board, that should help.
How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube
Then, turn turn the system back on and recheck all diagnostics. Then back off for a few minutes, then back on and recheck all diagnostics. This will reverse the polarity.
The instant salinity will take a few seconds to stabilize. Note the stable number.
The instant salinity should be the same in both polarities.
If the instant salinity is way different in both polarities, the cell is bad.
Then divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity (from a reliable test kit). If the result is less than 0.75, the cell is bad.
When the system first turns on, the no flow should blink for about 30 seconds and then go out. If it stays solid, then you have a flow problem or a bad flow switch.
At 2,700 ppm, the check salt warning will go on but the cell will still work.
If the check cell light is blinking, it's a reminder to check the cell for scale. Reset by holding the little black button down for about 5 seconds.
cleaned it with a screwdriver? Oh no. If the screwdriver scratched up the plates in the cell, it might not last much longer..... keep an eye on it.
For future reference, you should use muriatic acid to dissolve deposits off of the cell plates. If it needs a little persuasion, use a popsicle stick, but even with that, be careful.
For future reference, you should use muriatic acid to dissolve deposits off of the cell plates. If it needs a little persuasion, use a popsicle stick, but even with that, be careful.