Tile entire pool (rather than plaster)

[Melbourne]

This topic may be covered in here somewhere and if it is, please do help me find it. Every search I run for “tile” brings up nearly every thread.

I’ve got an old gunite pool to remodel in a no-freeze area (Florida) and it’s been stripped back down to the shell. I’m seriously debating tile for the entire thing, using mosaic tile. I’m currently considering “penny tile.” I suppose I would need to bed and grout them using plain white plaster. Perhaps the bedding could be flexbond.

Anyway- I’m considering this as a DIY project, with some hired labor. This is a big pool, 20x40.

Anyone here attempt something like this? Am I crazy to be considering this project?

 

[duraleigh]

That is a MONUMENTAL project. I would suggest you get an estimate from a tile company to get an idea of the scope. A quote of 50k+ wouldn't surprise me.

I certainly wouldn't consider it a DIY project but you may have an incredible amount of energy and time.......you would need it.

 

[jimmythegreek]

That's a huge diy and u need special thinset not flexbond. They make underwater thinset. U want a bigger tile than penny tile. Will be too hard to get it laid nice unless u skim coat entire pool to level the chip out and then set w notched trowel. A 2x2 tile will be alot more forgiving but any tile on sheets has spots where it doesn't line up perfectly on a big pool like urs u will have zipper effect no matter what.

 

[sktn77a]

Am I crazy to be considering this project?

Yes! Don't do it!

 

[Melbourne]

That's a huge diy and u need special thinset not flexbond. They make underwater thinset. U want a bigger tile than penny tile. Will be too hard to get it laid nice unless u skim coat entire pool to level the chip out and then set w notched trowel. A 2x2 tile will be alot more forgiving but any tile on sheets has spots where it doesn't line up perfectly on a big pool like urs u will have zipper effect no matter what.

The zipper effects and pattern mismatches, especially around the curved corners, are exactly why I was looking at the small round penny tiles. I figured on “grouting” them with plain white pool plaster, and knew that major surface prep of the chipped out tank (the chipping is already done) was going to be necessary no matter what finish I choose.

I would actually prefer 2x2 or larger square tile, but figured that I could never that to look right around curvy corners.

The consensus here seems to be that I’d nuts to attempt this job. It’s only about 1700 SF total. Like tiling a giant shower. So I’m not sure why this idea is so crazy. (Do feel free to explain why!)

 

[bmoreswim]

The concept itself is not a complex one. It's just the sheer amount of work. Your pool is not so large, but it will be a job for sure. There was one epic thread from overseas where the guy tiled his own pool. I remember him having to redo part of it as I recall for some reason.

This is not the thread I was thinking of because it is a crew doing it, but it would be fun for you to see it. Maybe someone else can locate that old thread.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/87710-New-pool-build-in-Nicaragua/page6

 

[Flying Tivo]

It's a big proyect if you want to tackle it! I used to worry about lining up and corners, but it doesn't matter after a week of filling!

Latticret gives you a big warranty (25 years)if you use platinum and epoxy base grout.

 

[MinerJason]

Not crazy IMO, just a lot of work, a fair amount of skill required, and a lot of cost. Materials alone will likely cost a fair amount more than hiring out plaster/pebble. The small penny tiles will be somewhat forgiving on corners and curves, so I think that's a good choice. Make sure whatever tile you choose has a waterproof backing adhesive. And even if it's rated as waterproof, double check by soaking a sheet in a bucket of water for a couple days and then try to pull the tiles off. Best for adherence would be front faced tiles, but they can be tricky to install.

Materials should be a bit different from a typical shower installation, as you want things rated for continuous submersion. I'm guessing the surface is pretty rough and irregular after the chip out, so you'll probably need a thin layer of mortar to get a nice smooth surface to start with. Make sure the mortar is polymer fortified and rated for submerged applications. I think a cementitious waterproofing product like Merlex Super Blockade would also be a good idea. There are a lot of options for thinset, but Flexbond will dissolve if water gets to it, so use something rated for submerged applications instead. I like Laticrete 3701 personally, but if you're set on Custom Building Products, their Pro-lite Large Format Tile & Stone Mortar and their Glass Tile Premium Thinset Mortar are both rated for submerged applications. I'd also suggest a high quality grout rated for submerged applications rather than grouting with pool plaster. Epoxy based grouts are usually a good choice for pool tile, like Laticrete Spectralock Pro.

 

[Melbourne]

Thanks for the input. I’m a little frightened of epoxy-based grouts, was thinking of good old unsanded tile grout or of using plain white plaster as the grout. Buying plaster is more of a trick than it should be, however.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

Not crazy IMO, just a lot of work, a fair amount of skill required, and a lot of cost. Materials alone will likely cost a fair amount more than hiring out plaster/pebble. The small penny tiles will be somewhat forgiving on corners and curves, so I think that's a good choice. Make sure whatever tile you choose has a waterproof backing adhesive. And even if it's rated as waterproof, double check by soaking a sheet in a bucket of water for a couple days and then try to pull the tiles off. Best for adherence would be front faced tiles, but they can be tricky to install.

Materials should be a bit different from a typical shower installation, as you want things rated for continuous submersion. I'm guessing the surface is pretty rough and irregular after the chip out, so you'll probably need a thin layer of mortar to get a nice smooth surface to start with. Make sure the mortar is polymer fortified and rated for submerged applications. I think a cementitious waterproofing product like Merlex Super Blockade would also be a good idea. There are a lot of options for thinset, but Flexbond will dissolve if water gets to it, so use something rated for submerged applications instead. I like Laticrete 3701 personally, but if you're set on Custom Building Products, their Pro-lite Large Format Tile & Stone Mortar and their Glass Tile Premium Thinset Mortar are both rated for submerged applications. I'd also suggest a high quality grout rated for submerged applications rather than grouting with pool plaster. Epoxy based grouts are usually a good choice for pool tile, like Laticrete Spectralock Pro.

Here the pool industry gotcha - backing makes 100% adhesion impossible.. tail lights babay!!

A full tile pool, is quite expensive for a misunderstood reason. The shotcrete need to be carve impeccably. Not just an awesome job, but dead to rights carved.

Miner! - call for water truck yet buddy?

 

[MinerJason]

Here the pool industry gotcha - backing makes 100% adhesion impossible.. tail lights babay!!

Yep, which is why front faced tile works so much better. But it's also harder to find, and more difficult to work with than the mesh backing style.

A full tile pool, is quite expensive for a misunderstood reason. The shotcrete need to be carve impeccably. Not just an awesome job, but dead to rights carved.

I imagine applying a thin layer of some type of mortar over a chip out to get a true surface would be pretty challenging as well.

Miner! - call for water truck yet buddy?

Nope, wife's given up on having it done before the end of the swim season, and instead wants to spend the winter getting it done. This allows time for her to add even more upgrades to the to do list, including a giant DIY sugar skull tile mosaic. Might end up trying the polished pebble finish after all...