Re: Think about switching to salt....
Lot's of us here have the Pentair Intellichlor. For your size pool you should get the IC60. It is a bit oversized for your pool, so you just run it less %, and it is costs just a bit more than the IC40. More about the Intellichlor here -->
IntelliChlor - Pool and Spa Sanitizers - Pentair
There are others on the market. A key tradeoff is the Pentair Intellichlor has the salt cell and all the control electronics in the cell. The other box is just a power supply. When you have a problem you replace the cell and you replace everything. That makes the cell replacements more expensive but problems easier to fix.
Other manufactures split the unit with control electronics in the box with the power supply and a simpler cell. That can be good or bad when you have a problem as you don't always know which part to replace. Getting things fixed can take more trial and error and time.
To switch to a SWG:
- Add salt - Use good quality pool salt. I like Mortons Pool Salt from Walmart. Don't buy the Clorox Pool Salt. It has caused staining with some folks. Get a
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test and measure your salt level before you calculate how much salt you need. Some folks have overshot their target salt level in the inital fill. It is easier adding more bags up to your target then dumping them all in and having to drain your water out for too high a salt level.
- Add CYA to up it to 70. Learn what your new FC targets are based on
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
- Install SWG system
- Power up SWG
- Check FC level and fine tune pump run time and SWG %
You don't need to drain the pool. The SWG simply begins generating the CL that you had previously been adding. You still have a CL pool.
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what about the ionizing systems, as I researched saltwater couldn’t help but be wonder if those are effective and as efficient as advertised
Skip the ionizing systems. A SWG generates CL and CL is what does the sanitizing work.