Good morning or afternooon depending on where you are. My question that I have is that I have a 13,000 gallon pool that I opened up this year. It was super green due to it not being covered. I have gotten the pool back to blue and clean, but It is still cloudy. My hardness is at 500 which is insane, but it is what it is at this point. My ph will not seem to get above a 6.8. My chlorine levels are low. That's because I haven't added my clorine in a week. I ran out and just haven't gotten any. My total alkalinity is at 180 and stabilizer is low. My question is how to get this all back on track? I've gone to Leslies, and they suggested to do a completer pool drain with my hardness being that high. To me, that is a stupid response since my water is well water. Plus, i don't want any damages to my liner or pool by doing so. They wouldn't do any other testing until my hardness and ph was under control. Help!!! Responses plese. Thanks in advance.
Thick water and cloudy issue.
- Thread starter Dkelley1127
- Start date
-
- Tags
- #poolissues
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,205
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
For pools that get really bad, some owners do elect to exchange some water, but if you are on a well, you certainly don't want to add more iron right? So treat the existing water it is. Before we can really help you, we need accurate, reliable test results. So here's what I would recommend:
- Order a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C sett kit. Both are very reliable for what you need. See Test Kits Compared
- You need the pH at least in the 7s. If you can't aerate the water, try some Borax. Use our PoolMath APP to determine how much to add to get you to about 7.0-7.2.
- Once you have a proper test kit, you can validate the CYA, pH, and FC and prepare to do the SLAM Process. That's how you will kill the algae once and for all. Make sure to read that page thoroughly.
It's that simple really, but it all starts with the test kit. Once you get it, add it to your signature and post a full set of results. We'll be happy to coach you through the SLAM.
For pools that get really bad, some owners do elect to exchange some water, but if you are on a well, you certainly don't want to add more iron right? So treat the existing water it is. Before we can really help you, we need accurate, reliable test results. So here's what I would recommend:- Order a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C sett kit. Both are very reliable for what you need. See Test Kits Compared
- You need the pH at least in the 7s. If you can't aerate the water, try some Borax. Use our PoolMath APP to determine how much to add to get you to about 7.0-7.2.
- Once you have a proper test kit, you can validate the CYA, pH, and FC and prepare to do the SLAM Process. That's how you will kill the algae once and for all. Make sure to read that page thoroughly.
It's that simple really, but it all starts with the test kit. Once you get it, add it to your signature and post a full set of results. We'll be happy to coach you through the SLAM.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,853
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Hardness of 500 is above average but not crazy. Folks in the Southwest manage pools with CH of 800+.
Please stay out of Leslie and their testing and advice. It will only cost you money and aggravation.
You need a better test kit to use TFPC methods. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. Read Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
When you get your test kit post a complete set of tests and we can help you from there.
Hardness of 500 is above average but not crazy. Folks in the Southwest manage pools with CH of 800+.
Please stay out of Leslie and their testing and advice. It will only cost you money and aggravation.
You need a better test kit to use TFPC methods. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. Read Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
When you get your test kit post a complete set of tests and we can help you from there.
100% agree with the Leslie pool place. They wanted me to spend an insane amount. I will purchase test kit and post. Thanks.
Welcome to TFP!
- Order a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C sett kit. Both are very reliable for what you need. See Test Kits Compared
- You need the pH at least in the 7s. If you can't aerate the water, try some Borax. Use our PoolMath APP to determine how much to add to get you to about 7.0-7.2.
- Once you have a proper test kit, you can validate the CYA, pH, and FC and prepare to do the SLAM Process. That's how you will kill the algae once and for all. Make sure to read that page thoroughly.
It's that simple really, but it all starts with the test kit. Once you get it, add it to your signature and post a full set of results. We'll be happy to coach you through the SLAM.
Thank you for the great advise. I will post test results after I purchase the test kit. Thanks again.
Alrighty folks. I bought a real test kit and here are my results. Free Chlorine: 1 Total Chlorine: 2 PH: 6.8 Alkalinity: 250 Calcium Hardness: 230 CYA: 40. My pool is still cloudy. Pool doesn't feel slimy at all, no dirt in the pool. What do I need to do now? I have Floc and clarifier, but didn't want to do any of that until I heard from you, the PROs. Thanks in advance.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,205
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
While there can be exceptions, a cloudy pool is usually indicative of algae about to bloom. I would be inclined to recommend an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm if a SLAM Process is required. While waiting for this evening to perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, you should do the following:
- Add chlorine (regular bleach) to increase the FC anywhere between 6-8 today. Test a couple hours later and increase it if it crashes. Try to keep the FC in that 6-8 range all day and up until dark when you take your first OCLT reading.
- Which test kit did you get? Add your new test kit to your signature
- Also add your filter type to your signature.
- Increase the pH just a little bit. I know the colors can be tricky, but at least to 7.0-7.2. If you do need to SLAM, 7.2 is ideal anyways.
- Definitely do not use the floc or clarifier.
- Add chlorine (regular bleach) to increase the FC anywhere between 6-8 today. Test a couple hours later and increase it if it crashes. Try to keep the FC in that 6-8 range all day and up until dark when you take your first OCLT reading.
- Which test kit did you get? Add your new test kit to your signature
- Also add your filter type to your signature.
- Increase the pH just a little bit. I know the colors can be tricky, but at least to 7.0-7.2. If you do need to SLAM, 7.2 is ideal anyways.
- Definitely do not use the floc or clarifier.
I updated my signature. Sand filter and I purchased the leslie total DPD water test kit.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,205
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's okay for now, but it does not have the accurate FC/CC testing product known as the FAS-DPD. By adding the FAS-DPD, you change what is basically a K-2005 tinto a K-2006 test kit. Much better to have. You'll want that FAS-DOD for sure.
That's all they had at the time. I s the FAS-DPD something that be purchased after the fact?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,205
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes. You should be able to get to it directly from the link I placed in the previous post.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,853
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60