The one month battle! I surrender, please help!

[Scrobbyd]

OK so I’ve owned my 30,500 gal inground pool for over 10 years. I’ve always used a TFP test kit & calculator. And it kept me going this long with crystal clear water and no issues. About a month ago I got some algae and after getting my chlorine level up to around 28 and maintaining that for about 3 to 4 days and sweeping the pool daily I finally had crystal clear water. With in about 4 to 5 days later my chlorine is back to normal to low range of around four. We’ve had a little rain over the past two weeks nothing drastic but I have added probably around 10 bags of salt over the past two weeks which is not normal. Because my system was telling me my salt level was around 2800 and I usually keep it at 3200 to 3400. Algae is back! at this point I am very much burnt and tired of jacking with this swimming pool. So I added three bags of shock and swept it Friday. Had my cell & water tested Saturday. My cell was the problem the whole time, probably going on two months and my salt at 5900. Placed an order for a new sale yesterday however it will not be here for 3 to 5 days. Without risking and losing complete control of my water what do you guys recommend I do till my new cell comes in? Thanks in advance for any and all advice. Also I’d like to get opinions on the sale that I bought from the salt pool store, the platinum edition for the T-15 replacement?

 

[ajw22]

You need to get the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to test your salt level and drin about 50% of your pool to get your salt level down around 3,000 for your new cell.

Have you done the SLAM Process to get rid of the algae?

Just keep your pool around SLAM FC level with liquid chlorine until you get your new cell if your meet the three exit criteria.

Also I’d like to get opinions on the sale that I bought from the salt pool store, the platinum edition for the T-15 replacement?

Some folks have had problems with after market cells showing high salt levels and high amps. See how it works for you.

 

[Scrobbyd]

OK so I bought a new SWG got it installed immediately my Hayward pro logic gold system read “High Salt/Amps”. Which I was aware of that this was probably going to be an issue. Since then I have drained about 2 foot from the pool and over filled on three separate occasions I got my salt down to around 5200ish. I am still getting the same high salt amp reading. Usually it would read 2700 and no lower before it would say “check system low salt” at this point I had no idea what my salt reading is I just know it’s below 2700. My question is does anyone know what the salt reading will read on the high side basically to get rid of the high salt amps message? Thanks in advance

 

[ajw22]

Are you testing the salinity with an independent salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766 Salt Test ?

What is your water temperature?

You should get your actual salinity down between 2800 - 3500.

The Aquarite display does not show actual salinity. It does not have a salinty sensor. It derives a value from the amps the cell pulls. Over 8 amps it will indicate high amps and high salt.

 

[bertschb]

I am still getting the same high salt amp reading. Usually it would read 2700 and no lower before it would say “check system low salt” at this point I had no idea what my salt reading is I just know it’s below 2700.

If you want to know what your salt level is, you need to get the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.

 

[Scrobbyd]

Water temp is 93 I bought a digital salt meter and I’ve been going to the pool store my digital meter is pretty much in line with the pool store. My only question was does anyone know at what point or what number my Hayward system will give on the high side before it goes to high salt amps message?

 

[ajw22]

High Amp Shutdown with High Water Temperatures​

The Aquarite has a design flaw where the high amp shutdown will happen at normal salinity when the water temperature is above about 90 degrees.

AquaRite, ProLogic, and AquaPlus all shut down at 8.0 amps. Some software revisions shut down at 10 amps, but we are not sure which revisions use 10 vs. 8. Most software revisions shut down at 8.0 amps.

At "normal" salinity levels of 3,200 ppm, the amperage begins to approach or exceed 8.0 amps at about 92 degrees.

This can be a problem for warmer pools, especially when the cell is downstream from a gas heater where the temperature exiting the heater can be up to 16.8 degrees Fahrenheit higher than the inlet temperature.

To stay below the 8.0 amp limit, you have to maintain the salinity below about 2,800 ppm. The system will work down to 2,400 ppm, but it will give a constant "Low Salinity" warning at 2,700 ppm. Trying to keep the salinity exactly at 2,800 to avoid getting a low salinity warning or a high amp error is difficult.

To avoid the low salinity warning and the high amp shutdown, you can change a T-15 the cell type to T-9. This will make the salinity read higher than actual so that you can operate at an actual salinity of 2,400 to 2,800 ppm without the low salinity warning all the time.

You would try to keep the amperage between about 6 to 7 amps maximum.

You would make sure that the amperage was always below 8.0, even when the heater is on.

 

[Scrobbyd]

OK originally I went with a T cell from salt pool store. Long story short one side of that T cell my couplin was slightly larger and was just over spinning the threads. After reading on here and reviews of people suggesting not to use aftermarket I went ahead and purchased a new Hayward WT3 T-15 cell. I also purchased the Taylor K-1766. Taylor is reading 3600 my system with new cell is saying to check system salt to low reading 1900. I perform the steps and suggested with my new cell in the configuration menu to set up to the T-15. I’ve battled since this thread has started to get my salt level down. During the meantime I cleaned my old cell reinstalled it while waiting on this new Hayward cell to come in and it seem to work for about 12 hours until I shut the pump off and restart it later on. I powered the whole system off for about a minute just a bit ago with the new cell in but no luck. Now what I’m at my wits end?