The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

[Catanzaro]

Your PH will resume to the normal level once the chlorine comes down. You should allow your levels to drop right around the 3-5 ppm level before adding Poly-60. If you add Poly 60, then no need for any further floating chlorine tabs. The tabs will dissolve slowly in the area, and will not help you along.

Either bring to SLAM levels and close, or use the Poly 60.

 

[dellov1]

Your PH will resume to the normal level once the chlorine comes down. You should allow your levels to drop right around the 3-5 ppm level before adding Poly-60. If you add Poly 60, then no need for any further floating chlorine tabs. The tabs will dissolve slowly in the area, and will not help you along.

Either bring to SLAM levels and close, or use the Poly 60.

Great, Thank you. I will check levels again tomorrow as its around 16ppm right now.

 

[Catanzaro]

You may not even want to check the levels. Wait a few days, then check, etc. When were you planning on closing the pool?

 

[dellov1]

You may not even want to check the levels. Wait a few days, then check, etc. When were you planning on closing the pool?

Hi i wanted to close it this past weekend (2 days ago) but i cant seem to get the chlorine to go lower than 10ppm. I am checking now every day since i did SLAM/shock. I use the Taylor K-2006C and my PH has come down (7.8) but FC is still at 10ppm and maintaining lol. i hope it will reach 3-5ppm by this weekend now. Good new is the pool looks great still

 

[Catanzaro]

Are you planning on adding Poly 60? If not, then bring back up to SLAM level and close the pool. What you can do is add a little bit of Poly 60 (now), like a few ounces. Let's not be chemists here, but the Poly 60 should eat away at some free chlorine. Then check again in 6-12 hours, and go from there. You may need to use a little more Poly 60. Based on your pool size, it appears that you will need 2 full bottles. Please advise!

 

[dellov1]

Are you planning on adding Poly 60? If not, then bring back up to SLAM level and close the pool. What you can do is add a little bit of Poly 60 (now), like a few ounces. Let's not be chemists here, but the Poly 60 should eat away at some free chlorine. Then check again in 6-12 hours, and go from there. You may need to use a little more Poly 60. Based on your pool size, it appears that you will need 2 full bottles. Please advise!

Yes i bought the Algaecide 60 which i guess is not the Polyquad? Its telling me to add 10 oz per 10,000 gallons. since i already bought it online i dont really want to return it or buy more shock unless necessary. Thank you for your help.

 

[dellov1]

Yes i bought the Algaecide 60 which i guess is not the Polyquad? Its telling me to add 10 oz per 10,000 gallons. since i already bought it online i dont really want to return it or buy more shock unless necessary. Thank you for your help.

i think i messed up and did not buy the polyquad but got the Algaecide 60 which i believe i can also use for closing my pool. So with 10ppm FC, PH 7.8, and CC 0.5. Can i put the Algaecide 60 as a preventer and close? Do you think i still need to wait till 5ppm? Should i still run pump for 12-24/hrs after i put in the Algaecide 60?

 

[Catanzaro]

Please follow the instructions on the Poly 60 from the thread, and it probably is non-foaming, non metallic. What is the brand name? And yes, you can add it at this point, but only add it 12-24 hours before closing the pool and blowing out the lines, not days before.

 

[RobHudson]

Read the thread. It's very helpful. Few questions that I didn't see the answer to.
1) I understand the polyquat 60 is optional. If I don't use it, I need to be at SLAM level for closing. Is there a pros/cons of going with one method over the other? I'm not super concerned about algae growth since this is way later in the year than I normally would close. So, should I just go with SLAM?

2) I have an inground spa where the return jets are lower than where the pool guy would have lowered the water to. How do I close them? Do I plug them even though water would obviously get in while plugging? Can I air lock them the same way that I would drains? There is one valve that controls all the returns.

3) The filter has a plunger style backwash valve, not a multiport valve. Can I still blow air from the pad and do I just let it go through the filter? Obviously, backwash is not an option so I assume that I have no other choice.

 

[Catanzaro]

Read the thread. It's very helpful. Few questions that I didn't see the answer to.
1) I understand the polyquat 60 is optional. If I don't use it, I need to be at SLAM level for closing. Is there a pros/cons of going with one method over the other? I'm not super concerned about algae growth since this is way later in the year than I normally would close. So, should I just go with SLAM?

Bring up to SLAM level and call it a day. I have not really experimented on what differences there are between only Poly 60 or SLAM. It is either one or the other.

2) I have an inground spa where the return jets are lower than where the pool guy would have lowered the water to. How do I close them? Do I plug them even though water would obviously get in while plugging? Can I air lock them the same way that I would drains? There is one valve that controls all the returns.

An "air lock" should only be used when you can not use winter plugs. The inground spa can be plugged underwater. However, a little difficult sometimes. We drain the spa at my friends home and plug them with extended # 4 winter plugs, but quickly fill up the spa not to have it lift off the ground, but do not drain all the way. If you do not mind getting wet, use goggles and go underneath when plugging them. This way you know if air leaks out of them. One thing I also have found is that if you have a lot of air or pressure in the lines because the blower was not shut off quickly enough, it could actually have a plug pop out. If there are no leaks in your plugs, then allow some air out by the equipment pad. The lines are now clear of water, so it does not make sense to have to much pressure in the lines. Again, only on the return side.

3) The filter has a plunger style backwash valve, not a multiport valve. Can I still blow air from the pad and do I just let it go through the filter? Obviously, backwash is not an option so I assume that I have no other choice.

It does not matter if you have it on filter as air is moving through, given you have a plunger style valve. Air just needs to move through the system to clear the lines. Remember to remove pressure gauge, sight glass, and drain plug with filter, etc.

 

[RobHudson]

For #2, not sure if this is what you're suggesting, but I was thinking lower the water below the spa drains, plug them, and fill it back up to the level it needs to be to support the cover. For the spa drain, I don't think I have a choice besides air locking it.

For #3, when you say remember to remove the pressure gauge, drain plugs, etc... is that before blowing or after? I would think after but the post makes it sound like before.

More questions...
4) I found 5 gizmos in the shed. Is there anything I would possibly use gizmos for other than the 2 wall skimmers? I can't understand why I'd have 5.

5) What's the point of the extended plugs? I have 2 of them. Can't figure out if there's a specific spot that I should use those 2.

 

[Catanzaro]

All gauges and drain plugs are removed after you are done. I have no idea why you have 5 Gizzmo's, but they are usually for skimmers only, not inside the pool as winter plugs are used inside the pool. Extended plugs are for areas that are hard to reach because they are tucked inside. Without seeing the actual area, it would be hard to tell. My friends spa has smaller type of return jets, etc. Lastly, lowering water below any returns is always optional. Just be careful as removing water from a spa could lift the spa if not secure enough. My friends spa was lifting when he purchased the pool, but we drain, plug and fill back up within 30 minutes, so we are pretty fast.

 

[RobHudson]

Is there a trick or tool for opening the end cap plug here (for blowing out the pipes)?

 

[Catanzaro]

Stick a screwdriver vertical, and turn counter clock wise. Isolate each section with the shut off valves when pushing air through. Again, you may have to work with adapters (larger to smaller) in order to create something to work with. There should be blow thru-plugs for the piping, but the cost for one plug may not be worth it.

 

[RobHudson]

I meant to reply. I got it open this morning no problem. Found a pry bar, turned it sideways, and it came right off.

I attempted to do a dry run with the cyclone blowing out the skimmers. My hose keeps coming off the cyclone adapter. Is there a trick to that? Or maybe I'll just try a hose clamp? And yes, it looks like I would need a male adapter for that pipe. Thanks.

 

[Catanzaro]

Twist the hose on the adapter, but hold the adapter with one hand and the hose with the other hand. Reverse the process when you take it off. Or maybe the hose is just larger than needed.

 

[RobHudson]

That leads to me my next questions. If I'm holding the hose on the pipe to blow it out, does it have to be super air tight? As in, if there is any air escaping will the process be ruined? And along those same lines, when blowing out the main/spa drains and turning them off, if I have everything super air tight, do I risk doing damage (or blowing up?) the pipes at the pad in that split second between shutting off the main/spa drain valves and shutting off the blower? For that split second, the air has nowhere to go.

This may be the end of my annoying questions. If so, thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. I love this site. I steer anyone I meet who has a pool to it.

 

[Catanzaro]

A little air loss is normal and and a little backpressure will not damage the piping. The compressor should be shut off before closing any valves during "air locks". Remember that air has to escape first before water can get in. I have loosened winter plugs, allowing air bubbles out, only to adjust them during the process.

As long as most of the water is removed from the piping, you should have no problems. Water expands about 8%-10% at most, and if most of the water is removed, you will have no problems.

 

[gwtw]

5-7 days prior to closing the pool, I bring the pool up to near SLAM level based on my CYA and allow the levels to drift down. The pump will run a full 24 hour cycle for only the first day. After this, the pump will run around 4 hours until the last day. No more chlorine additions are needed. Approximately 24 hours prior to closing, I add the Kemtek Poly-Quat 60 Non foaming, non-metallic algaecide and allow the pump to run for 12-24 hours.

Your levels at closing are either at the highest or at normal, not in between. If you are using Poly-Quat, then you must allow your levels to come back down to normal. If you are not using the algaecide, then keep at SLAM right before you close. If you are using Poly-Quat, allow your levels to drift down to your normal CYA/FC levels. If you are not using the algaecide, you can close with the SLAM - higher levels. There is an interaction between high chlorine levels and the algaecide that does not work. Even the instructions state to keep your FC at a certain level. Post # 2, quote from (Chem Geek)

"Polyquat does not oxidize chlorine; it is the other way around where chlorine oxidizes Polyquat, or Polyquat gets oxidized by chlorine."

Please see post below.

Polyquat algaecides: Mode of Action

Thanks for posting this Catanzaro. I'm closing early myself for the first time and I'm waiting for my FC to go down so I can use Poly-Quat. Your post says to add the Poly-Quat at normal chlorine levels, which for me is 7-9 ppm since CYA is 60. A later post on this discussion says to add it at 3-5 ppm, and information on pool school says to add it at half shock level. Since I'm closing my mesh-covered pool early before the water temperature drops below 60 degrees, what is the ideal closing chlorine level to maximize effectiveness of the Poly-Quat? Also, the Poly-Quat that I bought has a visible algae dose which is 11-17 oz per 10,000 gallons, and a clean pool dose which is 6-11 oz per 10,000 gallons. I don't see any evidence of algae now but a lot of leaves keep blowing into the pool and storms are expected before closing. Which dose should I use at closing to prevent algae until the water temperature drops below 60? If it ends up lowering the FC level some after adding it, should I bump the chlorine level back up to normal levels before closing?

 

[Catanzaro]

Sorry for the late response. The Poly 60 will eat away at the chlorine, and vice versa from what I understand. It is always best to allow the levels to drift down the minimum, based on CYA relationship. Hard to tell if lower levels, based off CYA would cause any problems. It is always good to test before and after the Poly 60, to see how much chlorine has truly been taken away from the algaecide.