TF100 Test Results - Am I Near a CYA Record?
- Thread starter garyengr
- Start date
Thanks, may do that - on the last partial drain, I removed about 25" of water. I stopped when my pump began sucking air - pump is about 2-3 feet above pool level and so dropping pool level puts increasing load on the pump and plumbing. Pump sucking air was due I believe to the diverter in the skimmer beginning to leak at a high rate (likely needs new o'rings - will address later). Getting CYA to 70 will only require I remove and replace about 15" of water. Once I start, I will likely let it go to 20" or so. If I went to 25" I project a CYA of about 54. So believe I will end up with CYA between 54 and 70. Second consideration is I have removed about 15000 gallons with >= 5000 to go. Projected additional cost to our May water bill will be $175. Can also work on lowering CYA in the future through backwashes, lowering level due to rain (yes we do get rain in the desert - approx 12 inches in a year), and doing canon balls off the diving board.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but you do have a main drain right? Can you not shut off the skimmers entirely and just pull water off the main drain exclusively? Methinks that would eliminate your air sucking problem while you're doing drain/refills...
There is only one suction line from the pool to the equipment (excluding the suction line in the pool for a suction side cleaner). The main drain is connected to the bottom of the skimmer basket and then there is another connection on the bottom of the skimmer basket to the equipment pad. In normal operation, the pump draws water from both the main drain and skimmer. If the water level in the pool drops below the skimmer, there is an automatic diverter in the bottom of the skimmer which shuts off the skimmer basket from the suction line resulting in the pump then only drawing water from the bottom drain.
In that case, could you block off the skimmer input so that air couldn't come in? Maybe a rubber ball or something small enough to get in the right spot to stop airflow, but strong and large enough to not get sucked down the pipe? Just thinking of a way to overcome the diverted issue.
What I've been calling a diverter is called a "Float Valve Assembly" by Hayward. To seal off the pump suction from the skimmer requires a flat plate across the bottom of the skimmer with an O'Ring for a seal to allow flow from the drain to the pump. The following drawing may make it clearer (forget the text about a valve lever, my unit doesn't have one).
Had I been watching the skimmer closely, I probably could have increased the water flow from the garden hose into the skimmer basket to overcome the increased leakage of the float assembly. I had originally set the flow to allow water to rise slowly in the skimmer basket. However, as the vacuum increased the leak rate probably increased as well. The right thing would be to replace the float valve assembly and o'rings and ensure the o'ring grooves were clear of debris and use o'ring lub. This would probably allow me to drain a little more. Since I have decided to aim for between 50 and 70 CYA level, I can accomplish this with a drain of less water than each of the last two. Therefore, don't need to correct the float valve assembly at this time.
Thanks for the thoughts and encouragement.
Gary
Ran an overnight OCLT test.
Temperature 75
FC of 9.5 at 8pm on 5/3
FC of 9 at 5:50 on 5/4
CCs of 0.5
Therefore I passed the OCLT test. Wasn't sure I would. When I pulled out my pool vac, it had green algae along the plastic joints. Also the hose element going into the pool vac had what appeared to be some mustard algae along the full length that could be wiped off. All other hose elements were completely clean. Is this common or could it be that my unit is old and the plastic hose has micro cracks and crevices that allow algae to live and grow.
Have been aerating the pool to raise PH and allow lowering TA. PH increased from 7.3 yesterday morning to 7.5 this morning. Will add 128 oz 14.5% muratic acid to lower PH to 7.1 and continue aerating.
Appears I had 3ppm of chlorine loss from the yesterday morning to this morning. Will add 50 oz 10% chlorine to raise FC to 11. If this rate of chlorine loss is consistent, my chlorine costs for the warm months will be about $240. (50oz per day for 180 days of warm months x $3.40 / gallon). For me, it appears the TFP method will use about the same cost of chlorine. Last year I used 2 buckets of 3" tablets at $80/bucket and 3 boxes of 24 bags of shock at about $40/box. Even if the cost was higher I would still switch to the TFP method due to pool stability and consistency. The key to me is the TF100 kit which allows you to know what you levels are. Now I just need to get the chlorine dispensing automated so it is as convenient as putting a floater in the pool.
Temperature 75
FC of 9.5 at 8pm on 5/3
FC of 9 at 5:50 on 5/4
CCs of 0.5
Therefore I passed the OCLT test. Wasn't sure I would. When I pulled out my pool vac, it had green algae along the plastic joints. Also the hose element going into the pool vac had what appeared to be some mustard algae along the full length that could be wiped off. All other hose elements were completely clean. Is this common or could it be that my unit is old and the plastic hose has micro cracks and crevices that allow algae to live and grow.
Have been aerating the pool to raise PH and allow lowering TA. PH increased from 7.3 yesterday morning to 7.5 this morning. Will add 128 oz 14.5% muratic acid to lower PH to 7.1 and continue aerating.
Appears I had 3ppm of chlorine loss from the yesterday morning to this morning. Will add 50 oz 10% chlorine to raise FC to 11. If this rate of chlorine loss is consistent, my chlorine costs for the warm months will be about $240. (50oz per day for 180 days of warm months x $3.40 / gallon). For me, it appears the TFP method will use about the same cost of chlorine. Last year I used 2 buckets of 3" tablets at $80/bucket and 3 boxes of 24 bags of shock at about $40/box. Even if the cost was higher I would still switch to the TFP method due to pool stability and consistency. The key to me is the TF100 kit which allows you to know what you levels are. Now I just need to get the chlorine dispensing automated so it is as convenient as putting a floater in the pool.
Happy you passed OLCT last night. Are you going to do it again tonight? I did mine twice just to be sure. It you pass it again and the water is crystal clear then you are done. You only have to keep FC at the recommended range.
As you recommended it, I will. I'm pretty sure it will pass but you can never get too much practice/data with the test kit. The pool is looking as clear as I can remember it every looking.
BTW - I read your thread and have to say you did a great job staying on top of your SLAM especially given all your extra activities.
Thanks. I really needed to get it done. Now I am waiting on one more thing and we can have our home inspection for foster to adopt. Hoping to have another little girl in our home by the end of the year.
That's great, based on your drive and persistence as evidenced in your thread, you have nothing to worry about. Our children are grown and living in Denver, New York and Atlanta. Our kids are now our 4 year old Boxer Lab rescue (a gift when our son moved to Denver a couple of years ago) and our new child, a 7 month old Black Lab whose every bit as trying as a 7 year old.
I have 3 grown boys 25,22, and 21 year old. They have all moved out and live on their own. I have a son who would be 11 this year but passed away at birth and our daughter who is 9. I also have a 4 year old grandson. Then all of our furry kids.
Drained and replaced water. Had planned to drain enough to get down to a CYA around mid 50s, but a thunderstorm moved through and I stopped just as it began lightening and raining. Ended up with a CYA of 70. Have been working to get TA down and saw the first movement this morning:
FC: 8
CC: 0.5
PH: 7.2
TA: 120
CH: 200
CYA: 70
Once I achieve a TA 80 and PH of ~7.6, I will work on raising CH to 250 to 300.
FC: 8
CC: 0.5
PH: 7.2
TA: 120
CH: 200
CYA: 70
Once I achieve a TA 80 and PH of ~7.6, I will work on raising CH to 250 to 300.
From where you are, I would let the CH cycle up naturally. If anything, I wouldn't take it above 250. Conversely, you could use a little Cal-Hypo once in a while as well. Your low CH makeup gives you some options I wish I had. Very nice!