TF100 CH Reagent Quantities

[HeyEng]

I am sure there is a simple answer to this, but I can't think of it.

For the test, we use:

10 drops of R-0010
3 drops of R-0011L
TBD of R-0012

Yet, the amount shipped in the kit is 1/2 oz of 0010 and 1 oz of 0011. Why is this?

 

[Texas Splash]

I wonder if it might have something to do with the consistency or thickness of the #11? @Leebo or @TFTestkits would you be able to clarify?

 

[flynwill]

I wondered about this as well. My cure was to just go buy a 2 oz bottle of R0010 at Amazon.

 

[magiteck]

I just checked my TF-100 and mine came with 1/2 oz of 0010, 1/2 oz of 0011L, and 1oz of 12.

Which kit did you get that comes with 1oz of 0011?

 

[pjt]

Yet, the amount shipped in the kit is 1/2 oz of 0010 and 1 oz of 0011. Why is this?

Makes no sense to me. I was wondering about that myself.

 

[PoolBrews]

I just checked my TF-100 and mine came with 1/2 oz of 0010, 1/2 oz of 0011L, and 1oz of 12.

Which kit did you get that comes with 1oz of 0011?

Mine came with 1/2, 1/2, and 1 as well... which still doesn't make sense based on what's required for the test. It should be 1 oz of 0010, 1/2 oz of 0011L, and 2 oz of 0012. Most pools will use 15-20 drops of 0012 each time.

 

[newdude]

*laughs in vinyl*
what's a CH test ? Asking for a friend.

 

[proavia]

Mine came with 1/2, 1/2, and 1 as well... which still doesn't make sense based on what's required for the test. It should be 1 oz of 0010, 1/2 oz of 0011L, and 2 oz of 0012. Most pools will use 15-20 drops of 0012 each time.

I agree. Anywhere with hard water will use up the R-0012 first and then the R-0010.

If not using softened water as makeup/autofill water, the CH continues to increase with evaporation/refill.
The R-0012 gets used up first, followed by the R-0010. In all the years I've been testing CH, I have never depleted the R-0011 colored indicator.

Maybe there should be a soft water and hard water option for the TF100.

 

[BowserB]

I agree. Anywhere with hard water will use up the R-0012 first and then the R-0010.

If not using softened water as makeup/autofill water, the CH continues to increase with evaporation/refill.
The R-0012 gets used up first, followed by the R-0010. In all the years I've been testing CH, I have never depleted the R-0011 colored indicator.

Maybe there should be a soft water and hard water option for the TF100.

The R10 you use 10 drops every test. R12 depends on the calcium hardness, of course. The R10 in the kit is not much, but as someone else pointed out, when it is gone, you can get a bigger refill from Amazon (w/ free shipping if you have Prime). Simple solution. As to the R11, I think I've thrown away more often than run out...I think it could use an anticoagulent!

We have a water softener, and that combined with overflow to the storm drains with rain means we're periodically adding calcium. I'm planning to get a plumber to reroute our A/C condensate from the sanitary sewer to a rain barrel which I'll use for pool fill, so that will be even softer (essentially distilled) water, and we'll be still adding calcium as necessary.

 

[an1vrsy]

I'm planning to get a plumber to reroute our A/C condensate from the sanitary sewer to a rain barrel which I'll use for pool fill

@JoyfulNoise had a post a while back indicating that there are other trace chemicals in the a/c condensate that wouldn’t be good for using as makeup water. I am not at his level of understanding but it is something that I remember.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

@JoyfulNoise had a post a while back indicating that there are other trace chemicals in the a/c condensate that wouldn’t be good for using as makeup water. I am not at his level of understanding but it is something that I remember.

A/C condensate could possibly have trace metal contamination in it. Possibly copper from the coils and possible lead if there are brazed connections using lead-tin solder. It’s not 100%, just a possibility. The water will definitely be very low pH with almost no alkalinity in it. It could be used as fill water if metal tests came back negative and a little bit of alkalinity (bicarbonate) was added to the tank.

 

[pjt]

I think it could use an anticoagulent!

Glad I'm not the only one with this problem!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Glad I'm not the only one with this problem!

The actual indicator dye is a solid organic compound that has extremely low solubility in water or ethanol. There are other solvents it will dissolve in but they are probably too hazardous to use in a consumer product (for fears of all the morons out there that will try to huff it). So the “curdling” is nothing more than the solids coming out of solution and clumping. Sadly, there’s not much you can do about it.

 

[Mdragger88]

*laughs in vinyl*
what's a CH test ? Asking for a friend.

Same 🖐