TF Pro vs Pool Store results

Tcadwall0

Gold Supporter
May 19, 2021
207
Charlotte, NC
Pool Size
12900
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Background:
This is my first post, but I have spent numerous hours here researching, and do believe in the practices here. I kept an intex seasonal pool for 4 years (prior to finding this site) as part of the decision making process for going bigger. I found in the first 3 months that I did not want the underpowered pump and filter that came in the box. I upgraded to a larger intex pump and sand filter and added their SWG. Those years I did take my water to the pool store, and followed their advice. Never had any problems, but it was 2800 gallons, and it was emptied and taken down every year. We just had a ~13000 gal FG pool installed this winter.

Today:
(I'm hoping that my signature has all the equipment details, will see when I post.)
After a few weeks of using my test kit, and feeling I was really getting it down, I took my water to the store for testing because I feel that a couple things seem less than obvious when I am testing specifically pH color and CYA dot.

I am attaching a pic of my own pH test to see if other's eyes can verify what the 'color' is. To me it looks like it might fall between 7.2 and 7.5 - a little low. I would guess 7.3 or so - but certainly not as low as the store lists 7.1?
Here are how the readings compare. The tests were done from the same bottle within an hour of each other. --- and I have read enough on here to know we don't just trust the pool store tests. Oh - and I did buy something. A ball.;)
TestMinePool Store
FC54.08
CC.5.58
pH7.37.1
TA7033*
CH350305
CYA70103
Salt36003300

The store states that the TA is adjusted due to the affect of CYA. Really? Anyone know what their equation might be?
I was trying to do a sanity check - and instead feel insanity. CYA is hard for me to read, because I feel like I may be seeing a phantom dot. But I started around 30 a few weeks ago, and have been working to bring it up (using TF-Pro) to 70. maybe I am under-estimating - but certainly not by that much. The dot is pretty clear at the 100 line.

I am trying to get my numbers as good as possible, because I would like to do the borax addition (for pH buffering and Salt Cell life)
 

Attachments

  • 20210616_123303.jpg
    20210616_123303.jpg
    200.9 KB · Views: 28
Welcome to TFP! :wave: I'm seeing your pH at about 7.2. No need to do anything with that or the TA for that matter. The pH will probably rise slowly on its own anyway. As for the CYA, I trust you test of 70 before the pool store. You appear to be a non-salt pool, so I wouldn't raise the CYA any further though. Be sure to keep the FC elevated to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Hope that helps.
 
The store states that the TA is adjusted due to the affect of CYA. Really? Anyone know what their equation might be?
The pool store heavily favors pucks/tabs and shock which are stabilized with CYA (acid). They will bring the PH down (and also the TA) with continued over use.

Any TA between 60 and 110 is fine and will adjust itself from there. Leave it be or you’ll be chasing your tail.

Any 7.X PH is fine. At the ends of the scale keep tabs on it to adjust of it continues to swing, but 7.X is no better than 7.Y. Again more tail chasing.
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! In your pH photo there is an over all orange tint to the water. That would place pH between 7.2 and 7.8, 8.2 and up is pink, 6.8 and below is yellow. We don't adjust TA to account for CYA. There is no lingering effects on TA once CYA is added to the water. It appears your pool store uses machines to test, and they tend to be off unless they are frequently re-calibrated. Trust your own testing. Consistency in test procedures is important.
 
Welcome to the forum.
I see a Pentair IC-20 SWCG in your signature. That is a bit undersized for your pool volume. Keep checking FC each day for awhile and be sure you increase the run time and % generation as needed to maintain your FC.
 
Background:
This is my first post, but I have spent numerous hours here researching, and do believe in the practices here. I kept an intex seasonal pool for 4 years (prior to finding this site) as part of the decision making process for going bigger. I found in the first 3 months that I did not want the underpowered pump and filter that came in the box. I upgraded to a larger intex pump and sand filter and added their SWG. Those years I did take my water to the pool store, and followed their advice. Never had any problems, but it was 2800 gallons, and it was emptied and taken down every year. We just had a ~13000 gal FG pool installed this winter.

Today:
(I'm hoping that my signature has all the equipment details, will see when I post.)
After a few weeks of using my test kit, and feeling I was really getting it down, I took my water to the store for testing because I feel that a couple things seem less than obvious when I am testing specifically pH color and CYA dot.

I am attaching a pic of my own pH test to see if other's eyes can verify what the 'color' is. To me it looks like it might fall between 7.2 and 7.5 - a little low. I would guess 7.3 or so - but certainly not as low as the store lists 7.1?
Here are how the readings compare. The tests were done from the same bottle within an hour of each other. --- and I have read enough on here to know we don't just trust the pool store tests. Oh - and I did buy something. A ball.;)
TestMinePool Store
FC54.08
CC.5.58
pH7.37.1
TA7033*
CH350305
CYA70103
Salt36003300

The store states that the TA is adjusted due to the affect of CYA. Really? Anyone know what their equation might be?
I was trying to do a sanity check - and instead feel insanity. CYA is hard for me to read, because I feel like I may be seeing a phantom dot. But I started around 30 a few weeks ago, and have been working to bring it up (using TF-Pro) to 70. maybe I am under-estimating - but certainly not by that much. The dot is pretty clear at the 100 line.

I am trying to get my numbers as good as possible, because I would like to do the borax addition (for pH buffering and Salt Cell life)
The best thing I learned here for PH test is ur just matching shade not hue and that makes it easier for me
 
Welcome to the forum.
I see a Pentair IC-20 SWCG in your signature. That is a bit undersized for your pool volume. Keep checking FC each day for awhile and be sure you increase the run time and % generation as needed to maintain your FC.
I agree. Found this site too late or I would have had the PB size it up to a IC40 at least - to have double.

I do check FC and CC every day right now (while I am learning the TFP methods). I feel like I have found a happy place on run time. 15hrs a day mostly low speed, with 3 high speed intervals (dog hair and tree debris) during the day. So the SWG is producing for around 9hrs (60%). I have also done some OCLT tests out of curiousity, and looks to be holding quite well even though I have only rarely had CC:0. I have never been 1 or over either though.

As far as TA is concerned, it does seem to have found its place with just a little help (as mentioned I am planning to add borax this coming weekend so wanted to make sure I had that in line). It has been steady for over a week without modifications.
 
Thanks guys appreciate the feedback as well as the plethora of great information on this forum in general.
Still not quite sure on that CYA dot though. I think it is the hardest one to really get a handle on.
 
It is the most subjective test. Its best pour a little into the vial, glance and look away. If you stare at it you will think you still see the dot. I think if you are not sure you see it then you are close enough. Always perform the test in daylight with your back to the sun.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tcadwall0

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
It is the most subjective test. Its best pour a little into the vial, glance and look away. If you stare at it you will think you still see the dot. I think if you are not sure you see it then you are close enough. Always perform the test in daylight with your back to the sun.

Also, you can order a standard solution from TF Test Kits to help you understand what you are looking for while running the test.
 
For a CYA of 70, I would take that FC level up a notch or two so that when the sun takes it's daily "UV Tax" and burns off a couple of ppm of FC, you'll have enough still remaining to keep you out of that basement level where algae can take hold.

You're following the FC/CYA chart, right?? FC/CYA Levels

Maddie 🐞
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.