Testing PH when rebar is showing

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G

gemphx

0
Jul 16, 2016
19
Phoenix, az
I am planning on replastering my 15 year old pool this fall, as rebar is coming through and we have rust in 2 or 3 spots. Meanwhile I have algae, so trying to slam, however, my PH is always showing super high, as in at least 8.2 or higher. I was told that with the rust issue, I will not get a true ph reading. Any one have any insight on that? I am finding I can get it down with enough acid, but don't want to dump acid in if I don't really know what true reading is, and I know that slam will depend on the ph, correct? Thoughts? advise?
FC at 10,
TA at 90
CYA at 55-60
Ph - about 8.4 (or more)
What else do you need ?
 
Have never heard that one about rebar showing and pH. Do you have a reading for CH? Do you monitor your CSI?

I would think the rebar would be like having iron in your water. But not sure. I would suggest you PM Swampwoman to see if she has heard about the correlation between iron and pH.

If you lower your pH to 7.5, how long does it take to come back up. I imagine your fill water is pretty high pH (mine is, Colorado River water) so that has an effect during high rates of evaporation.

Take care.
 
CSI is very important to monitor with a plaster pool, especially in the southwest desert with our typically high CH and TA water. I know you are going to resurface so you might not care right now about calcium scaling, but after you do your resurface, you may want to rethink that.

No idea on the pH. Need to contact folks on the forum with metals experience.

Take care.
 
I am on about a 16 month cycle. I find once I hit 1000 ppm of Calcium it becomes difficult to manage my CSI. Others on the forum seem to be able to go higher. But that is my experience.
 
I have. You see I have a fiberglass pool. Most say not to do it, but there is no ground water here and our soil is decomposed granite, so really just gravel. I may switch to using a sump pump in the deep end and a hose with our fresh water in the shallow end as the heavy water from calcium and salt will stay somewhat seperated by their density difference. I would use a small volume sump pump (have one that moves about 400 gph) and adjust the hose to add that in the shallow end. Would probably get about a 85% changeout, and that would be fine. Only 6000 gallons to change, so can get it done in about 15 hours or so.

Our water is really cheap so I do not fight the calcium as high as others.

Take care
 
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