Testing chemistry in recently cleaned pool

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noturbizniss

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May 5, 2017
86
North Jersey
Long story short my pool (in new house) turned bright green. I had a pool company come to service it as i had no time to deal with it while moving in. They had to rebuild my filter since it apparently cracked (claimed because it was so dirty), and the skimmer lines are clogged up, running only at about 50-75%. Guy said its because when i pulled out and cleaned skmimer baskets i did not reach all the way down and clean out the hole. We had tons of needles coming through as well as some saw dust from cutting down 2 trees.
They shocked the pool, added chemicals and rebuilt filter and it is crystal clear. On sunday the test chlorine was at 5ppm. Guy said to add chlorine tabs to skimmer lines and to floaters and that should be good. i just tested the pool with the TF-100 and here are my findings:

FC: 1.5
CC: 0
CA Hardness: 400 or 450 (turned purplish at 400, blue at 450)
Total Alkalinity: 120
CYA: looks like 70 - possibly even higher

The daily tests were:
Chlorine: about 1, maybe a bit higher
PH 7.2

The pool guy insisted tabs are sufficient, but i know folks here like to pour in bleach/chlorine (such as Shop Pool Essentials 1-Gallon Liquid Pool Chlorine at Lowes.com)

What can i/should i do to get teh FC and regular chlorine up and staying up. Also - anything i can do to get CYA lower?

Thanks all
 
The pool guy is wrong, probably because he doesn't know about the relationship between CYA and FC.

You need to get that FC up using the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to determine the level.

Are you sure that TA isn't 120?
 
noturbizniss said:
Can we swim given the above? Should I run out and get the chlorine? Once I add how long do I need to wait?
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Yes, bleach not pucks. You already have enough CYA, you don't need to add more via pucks.

I like to wait until I've put the jug back in the shed before I'll get in after adding bleach. If you've dribbled it into the return stream, it's already diluted and dispersed enough and swimmers will just disperse it even further.
 

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noturbizniss said:
Oh, and we swam this am and I tested in pm before adding chlorine and fc was at 0.5 and regular chlorine test was down to 1.does that make any sense?
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Yes. It proves that the color-matching test isn't as accurate as the FAS-DPD test. Also the colorblock test is Total Chlorine.

Free Chlorine + Combined Chloramines = Total Chlorine. Free Chlorine is the one you want to maintain. Ideally, CC will be zero.
 
Richard320 said:
Yes. It proves that the color-matching test isn't as accurate as the FAS-DPD test. Also the colorblock test is Total Chlorine.

Free Chlorine + Combined Chloramines = Total Chlorine. Free Chlorine is the one you want to maintain. Ideally, CC will be zero.
Click to expand...
Aha. My cc was zero. So anyway to prevent the dropping chlorine? Or that's normal and I just need to keep adding every day or so?
 
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