Question for you technique gurus...I'm testing TA. Add 5 drops, still green. Add 6th drop and it turns to a medium pink, no green. That would be 60ppm. When I add a 7th drop for 70ppm it goes all the way red. Another drop has no effect on the color. What is the correct way to read this? 60ppm when it turns medium red/pink, 70ppm for pure red or 65ppm in the middle? Is a "middle" reading ever used on the color change tests?
Technique...60-65-70?
- Thread starter firstbase
- Start date
First,
The test is designed to count the drops that make the color change. When the last drop does not make the color change, that drop is not counted. Your TA is 70..
Jim R.
The test is designed to count the drops that make the color change. When the last drop does not make the color change, that drop is not counted. Your TA is 70..
Jim R.
First,
I saw your other post about pH above 8.0. Two questions for you..
1. Does your spillover run all the time?
2. Do you have any other water features?
3. (Ok three questions...)
Please outline the process you are using to lower your TA.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I saw your other post about pH above 8.0. Two questions for you..
1. Does your spillover run all the time?
2. Do you have any other water features?
3. (Ok three questions...)
Please outline the process you are using to lower your TA.Thanks,
Jim R.
First,
I saw your other post about pH above 8.0. Two questions for you..
1. Does your spillover run all the time?
2. Do you have any other water features?
3. (Ok three questions...)
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks Jim:
1. If the pool is running, the overflow is ...overflowing. Only options are to a) just leave the spa uncirculated ro b) Play with the valves so the drains and returns are tuned to circulate both pool and spa while keeping the level in the spa static to prevent overflow. I guess I could do that but would have to be pretty exact to prevent the mistake of having the spa slowly drain out.
2. No other water features, just the spa overflow.
3. Lowering the TA...yesterday pH was 8.0 and TA at 80. I dosed 3/4 gallon MA yesterday and 24 hours later the TA was at 70 and pH at 7.2. I dosed 28ozs. MA totake pH back to 7.0. will test tomorrow and see where TA is. Trying to get to 60 and see what happens. If that doesn't help then will go to 50 TA and see. Does this seem correct? From what I read I believe I a doing it correctly....?
My only suggestion and I think others will confirm:
Instead of dosing when it was 7.2 today, wait for it to get back up to 7.8 and then dose back down to 7.0. The key is how long it takes to 7.8. Your TA sweet spot for your pool will be when you can get the rise from 7.2 to 7.8 to be several days.
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Instead of dosing when it was 7.2 today, wait for it to get back up to 7.8 and then dose back down to 7.0. The key is how long it takes to 7.8. Your TA sweet spot for your pool will be when you can get the rise from 7.2 to 7.8 to be several days.
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And once you can do that, then it is time to learn about CSI, so that you know what pH to keep for long term health of your pool
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First,
Is your Goldline Aqua Logic PS-8 an automation system? If so do you have automated valves? I know nothing about your system, but most automated systems have a "Pool mode", a "Spa mode", and a "Spillover mode". It sounds like you are always in the spillover mode.. I'll try and learn something about your system and see what I can find.
Here is how I drop my TA and pH... Similar to your way but I do it more often. For me I get better and faster results.
1. Test and record TA and pH levels.
2. Use pool math and add MA to drop your pH to 7.0.
3. Turn on as much aeration as you have, and leave it on until done.
4. About three or four hours later Test the TA and pH levels.
5. If TA is where you want, continue with aeration until pH gets up to 7.5 or 7.6 and you are done.
If TA is still too high, got back to step 2.
I just keep doing this over and over until I get TA to be slightly less than I want.
Jim R.
Is your Goldline Aqua Logic PS-8 an automation system? If so do you have automated valves? I know nothing about your system, but most automated systems have a "Pool mode", a "Spa mode", and a "Spillover mode". It sounds like you are always in the spillover mode.. I'll try and learn something about your system and see what I can find.
Here is how I drop my TA and pH... Similar to your way but I do it more often. For me I get better and faster results.
1. Test and record TA and pH levels.
2. Use pool math and add MA to drop your pH to 7.0.
3. Turn on as much aeration as you have, and leave it on until done.
4. About three or four hours later Test the TA and pH levels.
5. If TA is where you want, continue with aeration until pH gets up to 7.5 or 7.6 and you are done.
If TA is still too high, got back to step 2.
I just keep doing this over and over until I get TA to be slightly less than I want.
Jim R.
Thanks. I have a newb's knowledge of CSI in that it is an overall indicator of your chemistry, a calculation using other test results. Shows the waters desire to either eat calcium or deposit it. Below -.6 is bad as is above +.6. I do play around with my test results in Pool Math to see the effect on CSI. As for an indepth understanding...I'm not there yet! I believe that the calculation allows some leeway in your test results. Meaning you can be high on something as long as you are lower on another so to speak.
- - - Updated - - -
You know, I don't honestly know the answer. I vaguely remember seeing "Pool Mode", etc. in the manual but didn't pay much attention. Maybe I should pay attention
. Pulling the manual now. The thing is confusing to begin with. Replaced the circuit board this past summer and still can't seem to get everything back to where it was before. Can't get my heater to turn on with the spa automatically and can't get it to turn on at all without going into service mode first. But that's for another thread...