TCell15 Goldline 2024 automation question

[amChess]

I have an old (10+ yrs) Goldline generator/controller. The salt cell went out - thinking whether to replace the whole setup or just the salt cell.

Looking at the new models seems that I would get something like this cell or generic -

AquaRite 900 w/40,000 gallon Extended Life TurboCell

Unmatched comfort, convenience, and peace of mind. Hayward provides clear, soft water and the most convenient sanitization method on the market to millions of pool owners around the world.

hayward.com

Has anyone tried to use the old, non-see-through style cells with the new S3 type systems - are they interchangeable?

Ty,

 

[ajw22]

Are you asking about cells for your 10 year old system or new Aquarite system?

The new Aquarite systems use cells with a chip in it to authenticate that the cell is genuine Hayward and prevent operation with generic cells.

 

[amChess]

Are you asking about cells for your 10 year old system or new Aquarite system?

The new Aquarite systems use cells with a chip in it to authenticate that the cell is genuine Hayward and prevent operation with generic cells.

I was looking to use W3T-CELL-15 or generic on my old one.
Huh - both basic Aquarite and Omni S3 systems require authentication chips now?

 

[ajw22]

I was looking to use W3T-CELL-15 or generic on my old one.

That should work on an old Aquarite system.

Huh - both basic Aquarite and Omni S3 systems require authentication chips now?

Seems to be.

 

[mas985]

I took apart one of the cells with the modification and it isn't an actual chip. It is simply a splice/short between two of the wires which can be done on the main board. Generics don't have that connection.

 

[mas985]

If you have a cell that has the modification, it should look like this under the end cap:



It has two extra wires. The Red/Blue wires are for the temperature sensor and the Orange/Yellow are the OEM sense wires.


Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.[54]

• 1) Black - Power to cell
• 2) White - Power to cell
• 3) Black - Power to cell
• 4) White - Power to cell
• 5) Brown - Not used
• 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
• 7) Orange - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip OEM sense on new models.
• 8) Yellow - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip OEM sense on new models.
• 9) Green - Not used
• 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.

 

[ajw22]

It is simply a splice/short between two of the wires which can be done on the main board.

I would like to hear someone confirm that they did a splice on the main board and were able to use a generic cell on a new system.

 

[amChess]

If you have a cell that has the modification, it should look like this under the end cap:

View attachment 618052

It has two extra wires. The Red/Blue wires are for the temperature sensor and the Orange/Yellow are the OEM sense wires.


Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.[54]

• 1) Black - Power to cell
• 2) White - Power to cell
• 3) Black - Power to cell
• 4) White - Power to cell
• 5) Brown - Not used
• 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
• 7) Orange - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip OEM sense on new models.
• 8) Yellow - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip OEM sense on new models.
• 9) Green - Not used
• 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.

Thank you, did you open the black part? By "splice/short", you mean that the orange and yellow are simply connected under the black epoxy?

 

[mas985]

Thank you, did you open the black part?

Yes

By "splice/short", you mean that the orange and yellow are simply connected under the black epoxy?

Yes

However, generic cells do not have even the wires in cable nor the terminals in the connector so to spoof the board, you will need to add a jumper on the board or in the cell connector that shorts those two terminals.

But is there something wrong with you current controller? Why not just keep it? Are you looking to add automation?

 

[amChess]

Yes


Yes

However, generic cells do not have even the wires in cable nor the terminals in the connector so to spoof the board, you will need to add a jumper on the board or in the cell connector that shorts those two terminals.

But is there something wrong with you current controller? Why not just keep it? Are you looking to add automation?

Ty,
Yes, my initial plan is to keep the old controller. I am just deciding on whether to get something generic for 500-600, or Hayward for 900. If that board poops out in the middle of cell warranty, I want to be able to get a new board and still use up whatever is left of the new cell.

 

[mas985]

There have been several members who went with the extended life Hayward cells that have failed early so I would stay away from those.

You can usually pick up a used board on ebay. Amazon has aftermarket boards that are reasonable although some have bad ratings.