Taylor K2006 is Best Pool Testing Kit with one exception: CYA

rdelisa

Bronze Supporter
Sep 16, 2017
78
Arvada
I bought some stabilizer today at Walmart and picked up a packet of the HTH test strips simply because they include a CYA test. My stabilizer is close to zero. By the way, my initial impression of these HTH test strips is that they are quite accurate and amazingly convenient. They matched all of my most recent readings from the K2006. I agree that the K2006 Test Kit is hands-down the best for testing FC, TA, PH, and CH. What I like about the these liquid reagent and titrant tests is that there is no guesswork involved. You put drops in the free chlorine and count them until it turns completely colorless. All of them pretty much work the same way except for the CYA. Without question, this is the worst test of an otherwise superior testing kit. I've argued with a few diehard K2006 fans about this before, so I know many of you won't agree, but the CYA test is really difficult for my eyes. When I begin adding the cloudy solution to the tube, the sun, shadows, reflections all play tricks on my eyes. After a while it is difficult for me to tell if I am seeing a black dot or just a shadow. Or, is that a hint of black I am seeing or just my imagination? So, today I tried one of the convenient HTH 6-way test strips. In 60 seconds the HTH test strip confirmed what I suspected: My CYA level is close to zero. I had to waste 14 ml of the R-0013 before I came convinced of this before. I wondered if I did something wrong because the solution didn't become the least bit cloudy. At any rate, I like having the strips for quickness and convenience. You can compare, then calibrate your results with the K2006 to gain confidence in using them frequently. I will re-check my stabilizer in a couple of days with both the K-2006 and HTH strips and share what I find.
 
Funny, saw someone once get a reading of 50 CYA on their test strips on a brand new fill. Good luck explaining how to calibrate your k-2006 with those results.

Consumer level test strips are not accurate. You can argue all you want about how much the CYA test in the k-2006 sucks, it's certainly not the easiest test to read, but if you think a cheaply made pad on a test strip is a better indicator then you are wrong. Period. There is no argument to be made otherwise, a little reading here will make that abundantly clear.
 
So far, this new HTH 6-way is the most accurate strip test I've ever used. I dont agree with others that test strips are completely worthless. My CYA truly was 0, so the initial reading with the strip was accurate. The FC, TA, PH, CH were also very close to what the K2006 shows. After I get the stabilizer up in a few days I will retest with both kits and report the results. I use the La Motte strips to test for borates because I wasn’t aware of a liquid test. I would prefer one if it exists. Also I replaced salt strips with the Taylor K1766 which is way better IMO. So, I am a fan of testing with Taylor, but in my experience the CYA is easier to measure with strips. I have read the experiences otgers have had with strips but I can only speak for myself.
 
I will just counter your statement that the k-2006 is the best test kit by stating that in my opinion the TF-100 is the best test kit :) granted they are actually very similar test kits because everything uses Taylor reagents. But the TF-100 comes with more appropriate amounts of the reagents. For example, of the k-2006 is very lacking in the amount of CYA and FAS-DPD chlorine reagents provided. So once you factor in refills for those, it ends up costing more than the TF-100.
 
I think the problem is that the CYA test differs from the others. I personally think the CYA test is very good, but what you have to do is make sure the testing vial is on a white background and to then look away periodically while performing the test. The eyes and brain are very good at making a black dot appear when it really is not there. In my experience and having a target level of 40, I can see around 38 to 42 when the black dot disappears (estimating the log scale), but this is far more accurate than test strips. In fact through all the testing I have done recently, I arrive at 40 as an average and test strips do not offer this level of resolution. Keep in mind that Taylor and TF have examined this test thoroughly and possibly with many individuals to ascertain the end point.
 
..... So, today I tried one of the convenient HTH 6-way test strips. In 60 seconds the HTH test strip confirmed what I suspected: My CYA level is close to zero. I had to waste 14 ml of the R-0013 before I came convinced of this before. I wondered if I did something wrong because the solution didn't become the least bit cloudy..........

If the solution did not become cloudy, then your CYA is zero, there was really no need to confirm with test strips.

I also found the CYA test to be quite tricky, here is how I conquered it:
1) Make sure the solution has time to fully develop. After adding the R-0013, gently shake the mixing bottle and then let it sit for 60 seconds or so. Give it another gentle shake, then go for the test.
2) You can always pour the sample back into the mixing bottle, and do another test. No need to make another sample and waste the reagent. I still do this, and will always do the test twice to confirm my result.
3) Do the test outside on a bright sunny day, in mid-day sun if possible. Keep your back to the sun. Fill the view tube to the 100 mark, then at about waist height and in your shadow glance for the dot. If you see the dot, fill to the next mark (90) and repeat. Do this until you do not see the dot while glancing for it.

I have a SWG, and keep my CYA at 70ppm. How do I do that with a test strip that stops at 50ppm, then starts again at 100ppm? Should I guess?

Also, according to these test strips, A FC of 1ppm is OK, and a TC of 5ppm is OK. That would result in a CC of 4ppm, that is NOT OK.
guess_strip_.jpg

This is your pool, and you are free to manage it as you wish. It would be in your best interests to practice the CYA test in your K2006.
 

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You can buy the CYA standard solution to help you learn how to read the test accurately. I have done this. They sell it at TFP test kits, and I think it costs about $5.

Something seems wrong here if the idea is that you were using a K2006 test and got a significant reading for CYA, and then did a strip test and got a zero value for CYA and you're going with the strip test.

What value did the K2006 test give you when the strip was 0?

The only logical explanation for the strip test to read 0 AND ACTUALLY BE RIGHT when the k2006 test is cloudy, would be if your R0013 agent or pool water is cloudy even before you mixed them. Is your R0013 agent cloudy right out of the bottle? If not, is your pool water cloudy?

If neither the pool water nor the r0013 agent are cloudy, then you have to come up with some explanation for why they are cloudy after mixing, right?
 
I have a difficult time with the CYA. If I believe the dot disappeared at 60, my CYA is 70. If 70, then 80. I always gauge 10 ppm higher and work off the CYA/FC relationship. Having a little more chlorine in your pool will not really do any harm. Shocking a pool weekly or twice per week is worse as your levels are boosted a lot higher.

In total agreement with Dom, that test strips are at most a gauge and not accurate. Same situation like most people that keep there CYA at around 70 ppm because of an SWG. After the initial purchase, refills (at $36) will last you at least 2 seasons and possibly a third (depends on how stored). That is equivalent to $18 a year. There really is not that much of a difference in cost and you are obtaining pure accuracy.
 
I have the K 2006C, which I love. I've never had a TF100. I can't comment on comparison, other than what I've seen on this forum and on the TFtestkits website.

Anyway, one of the differences from what I have seen is the CYA test tube (people with a TF 100 please correct me if I am wrong). While I personally like the 2006C, the TF 100 test tube looks much easier to read for the CYA test (even though they use the same reagent). You may want to order that tube and try it.

Edit: Here is a link to the TF 100 tube, which is different. This looks easier, but having not tried it I cannot say for sure. CYA View Tube
 
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Yes it is a 1:1 ratio. Use whatever you want to mix it in. I've marked 10/20 ml lines on my tf-100 mixing bottle and use that to save reagents. Forget exactly but think it's enough for about 35ppm or more, certainly enough for my usual 40 anyways.
 
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