I bought a new house and have been working on getting pool correct. Following this forums advice I have switched to liquid chlorine and ordered my own test kit. My first experience in the pool store I was told that CYA was off the charts. I have drained the pool half way in the past two weeks two times. With the help of a very friendly new neighbor allowing me to use his empty lot to drain. I do not want to continue taking advantage of this new neighbors friendliness. buying taylor reagent R-0013 and using the hth test kit from home my CYA is from 70-80. Is this a manageable level for the summer if I continue to vacuum to waste and replace water? My pool is crystal clear right now and to my best estimation from test results from the pool store in town that uses Taylor reagents and the HTH test kit I currently have I have been keeping my FC at a level of 10-14. I will post my test results as soon as the test comes in. Am I missing anything, or is there any advice you could give me on the next steps?
Taylor K-2006 test kit arrives this week.
- Thread starter dwhitt
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,579
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
You can manage a pool at 80 ppm CYA. Just do not let algae take hold. Then it becomes problematic. You also need to test pH when the FC is at 10 or less.
FC/CYA Levels
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
You can manage a pool at 80 ppm CYA. Just do not let algae take hold. Then it becomes problematic. You also need to test pH when the FC is at 10 or less.
FC/CYA Levels
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
I received my Taylor K-2006 yesterday and here are the test results
FC-4.2
CC-0 or 0.2 I couldn't really tell
TA- 70
CYA- between 70-80 after 2 drain and fills
PH- 7.4
CH 90
I added chlorine last night based on Pool Math calculations to bring the FC up to 10. Is there anything else I should do to make sure the pool stays clear?
FC-4.2
CC-0 or 0.2 I couldn't really tell
TA- 70
CYA- between 70-80 after 2 drain and fills
PH- 7.4
CH 90
I added chlorine last night based on Pool Math calculations to bring the FC up to 10. Is there anything else I should do to make sure the pool stays clear?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,579
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ok... after adding chlorine my levels should have gone up to 10ppm based on the pool math calculator. however at about 3pm yesterday after testing my FC was 4.6ppm. Also after testing CYA again it seems after vacuuming to waste one time that my CYA has dropped from 80ppm to 60 ppm. My feeling is that there is significant chlorine loss throughout the day? If my combined chlorine is showing about 0.2ppm is it possible that my FC is battling algea even if I cannot see the algea?
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
Chlorine: It's possible a) the chlorine you are using isn't as strong as it says it is. Check the date codes/percentages. Add the amount you think gets you to 10, let it mix around for 30 minutes and then test. b) Your pool is larger than you think c) User error/wrong gallons in pool math. Speaking of, use a 10ml sample instead of 25 and then each drop is 0.5. Wastes less testing supplies.
CYA. Do the test in the same way every time. Back to full sun, vial at waist with 2 fingers at the top, glance then squirt, repeat.
CC: 0.2 is 0 in our books. Don't read anything into it.
CYA. Do the test in the same way every time. Back to full sun, vial at waist with 2 fingers at the top, glance then squirt, repeat.
CC: 0.2 is 0 in our books. Don't read anything into it.
I will do thank you. Should you test at 3pm in the afternoon in full sun. I was thinking about this yesterday... Is it better to test in the morning or in the evening?