Taking Over My Own Pool Maintenance - Am I On The Right Track?

[kvoigt]

Hello Everyone.

We live in Atlanta, GA and built a salt water pool in 2021. It's a about 12,000 gallons with an attached spa that's another 1,400 gallons. The pool has a mini pebble plaster based and includes two spa spillovers, two waterfalls and two bubblers. The equipment is Hayward - 2 Tristar 900 Variable Speed Pumps, SwimClear Cartridge Filter, 400k BTU Heater, Jandy 2 HP 240V spa blower and a Salt System T-Cell 9.

Since constructing the pool, we've had it serviced and maintained by our pool builder's service company. We're now ready to take over the maintenance ourselves to help lower the overall cost of pool ownership.

I purchased a Taylor K-2006C testing kit on Amazon and was educating myself with the kit over the weekend. This is all very new to me-

I did the full test a few times and here are my results:

FC - 10.8
CC - 0.4
pH - 7.2 (took 2 drops of R-0006 to raise the color to 7.6)
TA - 60
CH - 180
CYA - 0

I tested the CYA a few times and the black dot never disappears.

Two days before I tested, our pool was serviced by the maintenance company and their results were a bit different than mine. See below for what they sent me in my Pool Service Report:

READINGS
0 ppm free chlorine
0 ppm total chlorine
8.0 pH
70 ppm total alkalinity
240 ppm total hardness
55 ppm cyanuric acid
24 psi filter psi
1500 ppm salt

CHEMICALS ADDED
2 Each chlorine tab
3 lbs alkalinity ↑
3 bags salt
6 lbs shock cal-hypo


Given my test results and the chemicals that were just added I'm not really sure what to do next.

Based on my results - Pool Math suggests adding:
- 7 lbs of Dry Stabilizer to raise CYA
- 28 lbs of Calcium Chloride to raise CH
- 13 ounces of Borax (20 Mule) to raise pH

My Questions:
- Given the pool service company was just out on Friday, should I wait a week or so and test again before adjusting these things on my own?

- How do I test for salt amount?

- Given we have a chlorinator, does this impact chemicals needed / testing practices? Do we need to adjust the chlorinator settings? Right now I have the chlorinator set to run at 50% while the pump is on. Should this be adjusted based on different seasons?

- My test result for CYA coming back at 0 versus the pool company showing it at 55 has me somewhat confused. Is there another way I should test this before adding 7lbs of stabilizer?

- How do I evaluate my Chlorine levels if my CYA is coming back at 0?

- We do have several areas where calcium deposits have formed in our mortar / stone coping. Seems to be heavier in areas where the water is splashing down from waterfalls or the spa spillover. Is there a safe recommended way to remove these calcium deposits? Is that just scrubbing at it? Is the idea to get that CH more appropriately balanced to prevent future deposits? This is another reason I want to take over the pool maintenance ourselves as I just feel like the service company isn't properly maintaining the water and that's why these calcium deposits have appeared.

- My power company has a lower rate for overnight "off peak" power usage. My thought was to run the pool pumps overnight to take advantage of that lower energy rate. Any reason why the timing of the pump running would impact water quality?

- I've read that the suggested run time of the pump should be long enough to cycle the full pool through the filter daily. Is this accurate? And if so, how would I calculate the time needed to cycle the full pool through the filter? We're trying to lower the overall power usage, but want to make sure we're running it sufficiently.

I have found a new sense of control and look forward to learning how to properly maintain our pool. I hope I'm able to get some direction from the community!

Thanks!
Kris

 

[PoolStored]

- Given the pool service company was just out on Friday, should I wait a week or so and test again before adjusting these things on my own?

Nope, you can adjust now. No need to raise pH chemically...almost ever. pH will rise on its own. When TA is 60-80, pH should stabilize around 7.8-8.0, which is just fine...don't force it lower.
On CH, raise it to 250, which will protect your plaster. Test your fill water for TA and CH.

- How do I test for salt amount?

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

- Given we have a chlorinator, does this impact chemicals needed / testing practices? Do we need to adjust the chlorinator settings? Right now I have the chlorinator set to run at 50% while the pump is on. Should this be adjusted based on different seasons?

You should adjust based on your CYA level. Maintain your FC for your CYA. Chlorine demand will change with the season. Link--->FC/CYA Levels
You can adjust output % and/or pump run time.

- My test result for CYA coming back at 0 versus the pool company showing it at 55 has me somewhat confused. Is there another way I should test this before adding 7lbs of stabilizer?

Test should be done outdoors, bright sun at your back. Fill to each line until dot is obscured. Then use that number next to the line and add 10. I would add enough stabilizer to add 30ppm, then test 48 hours later. Once you have a good baseline that is 30 or above, then you can raise again. This will protect from over adding.

- We do have several areas where calcium deposits have formed in our mortar / stone coping. Seems to be heavier in areas where the water is splashing down from waterfalls or the spa spillover. Is there a safe recommended way to remove these calcium deposits? Is that just scrubbing at it? Is the idea to get that CH more appropriately balanced to prevent future deposits? This is another reason I want to take over the pool maintenance ourselves as I just feel like the service company isn't properly maintaining the water and that's why these calcium deposits have appeared.

Post some pictures. Sounds like efflorescence, not scale. Let's diagnose, then figure out solution.
Turn on TRACK CSI and TRACK TEMPERATURE in pool math. Also, use the same login as TFP and enable sharing with TFP so we can see your logs.

- My power company has a lower rate for overnight "off peak" power usage. My thought was to run the pool pumps overnight to take advantage of that lower energy rate. Any reason why the timing of the pump running would impact water quality?

Nope, should be fine.

- I've read that the suggested run time of the pump should be long enough to cycle the full pool through the filter daily. Is this accurate? And if so, how would I calculate the time needed to cycle the full pool through the filter? We're trying to lower the overall power usage, but want to make sure we're running it sufficiently.

It is not accurate. I would clean your filter. Lower the pump speed until the SWG turns off, then raise it 200rpm and run your pump there. You may need to run the pump higher to have enough flow for the heater, when the heater is running. What is the make and model of the heater.

Turnover of Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

If you can fill out your signature.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pjt]

FC - 10.8

Use a 10 ml sample so each drop is 0.5 FC. Saves time and reagent.

Pool Math suggests

PoolMath is just a calculator. If given a target, it will display how to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output.

 

[kvoigt]

Nope, you can adjust now. No need to raise pH chemically...almost ever. pH will rise on its own. When TA is 60-80, pH should stabilize around 7.8-8.0, which is just fine...don't force it lower.
On CH, raise it to 250, which will protect your plaster. Test your fill water for TA and CH.

Thanks - Tested again this morning and got 200. To raise to 250, I'd add 7 lbs of Calcium Chloride
Questions
Is 250 a good target to maintain the water? Or should I continue to increase until I get it to 350 per the suggested "ideal" level?
Seems like there's some differing information on what to use. Is the best option buying 50 lb bags of ice melter from Lowes/Home Depot?
Can this be stored in an outdoor shed?

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit​

tftestkits.net

Thanks - Just purchased

Test should be done outdoors, bright sun at your back. Fill to each line until dot is obscured. Then use that number next to the line and add 10. I would add enough stabilizer to add 30ppm, then test 48 hours later. Once you have a good baseline that is 30 or above, then you can raise again. This will protect from over adding.

Tested again - The dot becomes a little blurry if the tube if filled all the way to the top.
If I plug the current CYA at 10 and target at 30, PoolMath suggests 40oz of Dry Stabilizer.
To confirm, I should put 40 ounces of CYA (purchased from a pool store) in a sock and put in skimmer basket by pool return.
How long does it need to stay in the water?
Then test again 48 hours later ?
Repeat until CYA reaches 70?

Post some pictures. Sounds like efflorescence, not scale. Let's diagnose, then figure out solution.

 

[kvoigt]

Turn on TRACK CSI and TRACK TEMPERATURE in pool math. Also, use the same login as TFP and enable sharing with TFP so we can see your logs.

Done. Hopefully that's showing up now.

It is not accurate. I would clean your filter. Lower the pump speed until the SWG turns off, then raise it 200rpm and run your pump there. You may need to run the pump higher to have enough flow for the heater, when the heater is running. What is the make and model of the heater.

Will clean the filter this weekend.

I use the OmniLogic Control., I can set the pump and the chlorinator to run simultaneously.

It looks like the control won't let me adjust the chlorinator below 48%.
When I set the filter pump to the lowest setting (18%), the chlorinator appears to stay on.

How do I lower the pump to make the chlorinator turn off?
Once I figure this setting, how do I calculate the percentage of pump speed to additional RPM?
Once I'm 200 RPM over the setting that turns the chlorinator off, how long would the pump run for at that speed?

The heater is a Hayward HDF400

 

[PoolStored]

Is 250 a good target to maintain the water? Or should I continue to increase until I get it to 350 per the suggested "ideal" level?
Seems like there's some differing information on what to use. Is the best option buying 50 lb bags of ice melter from Lowes/Home Depot?
Can this be stored in an outdoor shed?

250 is just fine. Test your fill water for TA and CH.
This is the one chemical that I buy from the pool store. I prefer not to have issues with impurities.
Yes, if kept dry, it can be stored in a shed.

Tested again - The dot becomes a little blurry if the tube if filled all the way to the top.
If I plug the current CYA at 10 and target at 30, PoolMath suggests 40oz of Dry Stabilizer.
To confirm, I should put 40 ounces of CYA (purchased from a pool store) in a sock and put in skimmer basket by pool return.
How long does it need to stay in the water?
Then test again 48 hours later ?
Repeat until CYA reaches 70?

Yes, put in a sock and hang from a stick in front of a return.
Keep it in until dissolved. After about 30 minutes you can squeeze it a bunch to dissolve.
Test again 48 hours later.
Yes, repeat until you get to 70 and you are confident in your testing.

Pictures help...that is Efflorescence...

Efflorescence - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[PoolStored]

Not sure on the 48% limit.

Let's see what @PoolBrews and @ajw22 have to say...

 

[ajw22]

Do you have an OmniLogic, OmniPL, or Omni Hub system?

It looks like the control won't let me adjust the chlorinator below 48%.

Show us a picture of what screen you can't get below 48%.

 

[kvoigt]

Show us a picture of what screen you can't get below 48%.

I think I just may have been clicking off the chlorinator detail screen before it saved the new setting. I can now get it down to whatever percentage I desire.

If I run the the chlorinator at 100% and then turn the pump down to the lowest custom setting of 18%, I don't see this turning off the chlorinator.

So I guess back to my other questions:

How do I lower the pump to make the chlorinator turn off?
Once I figure this setting, how do I calculate the percentage of pump speed to additional RPM?
Once I'm 200 RPM over the setting that turns the chlorinator off, how long would the pump run for at that speed?

 

[ajw22]

First of all you should not be running the chlorinator at 100% for any length of time. It is not healthy for the cell. The cell needs a bit of rest time. Your practical maximum should be 80%.

Since your system reads pump speeds in % and not RPM every 1% is 35 RPM.

Find the pump % that turns off the NO FLOW error and then add 7%. That is your minimum pump speed for your SWG.

8 hours of pump runtime at 80% will generate 3 ppm of FC in your 15,000 gallon pool. Start with that and then tweak your pump runtime up or down based on if your FC is rising or falling.

 

[kvoigt]

First of all you should not be running the chlorinator at 100% for any length of time. It is not healthy for the cell. The cell needs a bit of rest time. Your practical maximum should be 80%.

Since your system reads pump speeds in % and not RPM every 1% is 35 RPM.

Find the pump % that turns of the NO FLOW error and then add 7%. That is your minimum pump speed for your SWG.

8 hours of pump runtime at 80% will generate 3 ppm of FC in your 15,000 gallon pool. Start with that and then tweak your pump runtime up or down based on if your FC is rising or falling.

Got it.

So I've set the chlorinator at 80% and the pump to 18% (which is the lowest custom setting). No error message after about 25 minutes.

Does this typically take a bit for the system to recognize the pump % is too low and kick out the NO FLOW error?

 

[ajw22]

Does this typically take a bit for the system to recognize the pump % is too low and kick out the NO FLOW error?

No FLOW should happen almost immediately when the pump changes speed.

 

[kvoigt]

No FLOW should happen almost immediately when the pump changes speed.

I've set the pump down to 18% and the chlorinator to 80% - I'm not getting a NO FLOW error.

Any thoughts on next steps?

 

[ajw22]

I've set the pump down to 18% and the chlorinator to 80% - I'm not getting a NO FLOW error.

Any thoughts on next steps?

That is about 700 RPM. That is typically too low for skimmers to work.

I would run your pump at about 40% with the heater off.

Your heater needs at least 40 GPM which typically requires about 2400 RPM or 70%. You need to setup your system so the pump speed increases when the heater is running.

 

[kvoigt]

That is about 700 RPM. That is typically too low for skimmers to work.

I would run your pump at about 40% with the heater off.

Your heater needs at least 40 GPM which typically requires about 2400 RPM or 70%. You need to setup your system so the pump speed increases when the heater is running.

Thanks! To confirm:

I should setup the pump to run daily for 8 hours at 40% with chlorinator set to 80%.

Once I get the CYA stabilized to 70, I can make adjustments to the chlorinator % setting to maintain proper balance between FC and CYA.

If I'm running the heater, then pump setting should be at least 70%.

Does this all sound accurate?

Thanks again for all the input. I'm eager to learn!

 

[ajw22]

Thanks! To confirm:

I should setup the pump to run daily for 8 hours at 40% with chlorinator set to 80%.

Once I get the CYA stabilized to 70, I can make adjustments to the chlorinator % setting to maintain proper balance between FC and CYA.

If I'm running the heater, then pump setting should be at least 70%.

Does this all sound accurate?

Thanks again for all the input. I'm eager to learn!

You got it.

Observe how things work in your pool and let's talk if anything looks off.

 

[kvoigt]

You got it.

Observe how things work in your pool and let's talk if anything looks off.

Thanks.

Another quick question. I have an attached spa with two spillovers into the main pool.

In terms of running the pump, would it make sense to run the spillover for 2 hours, then switch it to just the main pool for the last 6 hours?

If I run the spillover, I'd need to increase the pump speed so that there's enough power to push the water over the two edges.

Wasn't sure how having the spa and spillover impacts the setup for running the pump.

 

[ajw22]

Run the spillover for twice a day at about 9AM and 2PM for 15 minutes.

Running the spillover more unnecessarily will cause your pH to rise due to aeration.

 

[kvoigt]

Run the spillover for twice a day at about 9AM and 2PM for 15 minutes.

Running the spillover more unnecessarily will cause your pH to rise due to aeration

Ok - So that's the only time I'd need to run the pump on the spa? Or would I also want to isolate the pump to just circulate within the spa for a specified time frame?

 

[ajw22]

Or would I also want to isolate the pump to just circulate within the spa for a specified time frame?

It is not necessary. Running the spillover will change all the water in your spa twice a day.

Run your spillover at a higher pump speed of about 70%.