Switching to SWG tomorrow and need guidance please

Yes, and i use it for the pump but I think the guy is saying it can't be used for the swg. I love it for the pump.

It sounds like you would control pump and SWG from iAqualink app.

A prior poster mentioned the SWG control line to the Aqualink.
 
I believe that the IQ pump only controls the pump. Jandy has an iAqualink controller that controls the pool via relays, but that would include the pump, valves, heater etc. Not saying the SWG can't be hooked up to the pump, just that I don't believe it will be controlled via the app since you just have the IQ pump controller.
 
OK - So you do not have automation that makes sense why you have the timer. But lots of people have SWCGs and Variable Speed Pumps that always have power. Mine is setup the exact same way. I run mine at 50-80% all the time depending on chlorine requirements. You would do the same thing. I have tested mine and it works down to 800 rpms on my variable speed pump. If I turn my pump off, the SWCG also powers off. If on, then it generates chlorine according to percent it is set at. I run my pump 24x7 but I run it no less than 1500 rpms.

Jandy still specifies this to be powered into the pump wiring.

Here is a link to the manual for that SWCG.

https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0613500.pdf
 
I believe that the IQ pump only controls the pump. Jandy has an iAqualink controller that controls the pool via relays, but that would include the pump, valves, heater etc. Not saying the SWG can't be hooked up to the pump, just that I don't believe it will be controlled via the app since you just have the IQ pump controller.

I thought the OP said he had the Aqualink controller. Maybe this is where the confusion is.
 
Your installer needs to reread (read?) the install manual. The power pack has a power connection and a separate (optional) control connection. I don’t think you care if the system is sometimes has power, but is not on (because the automation has not sent the appropriate signal).

The tricky part is going to be correcting him politely...

+1. This is how mine works. Both the power and a control wire connect to my automation. The power is applied only when necessary (it's not on constantly like the pump's power). And the controller sends signals through the control wire for both when it fires, and for the output level of generation. It also receives errors from the SWG, which it relays back to the automation user interface (something else hardwiring to a mechanical timer would not achieve). So counting the flow switch, there's three things that occur for the SWG to engage (power, flow, control signal), which seems to me to be the best approach, safety-wise.
 
The problem in my setup is that the SWG comes on at 7:00 am. I need it to come on early to allow its 7 hour run to occur before PG&E's 3:00pm rate increase. So the solar doesn't kick on until later, and never the same time each day, which means I can't program around that issue. The SWG might be energized or not when that occurs. When the air gets flushed through it is completely random, and I don't have any practical way to fill the panels, and purge the air, before the SWG comes on.

I became alerted to this issue when I received a low-flow alert one morning when my solar kicked on. So my flow switch might solve for this issue. A rush of air seems to trigger it off, but is that 100% reliable? I don't really have anyway to test that. I think it's still possible, for some span of time, however brief, for the plates to be energized while air is present between them. Would that harm the plates? Or the electronics in the SWG? Or is it like unplugging an incandescent lamp for a second. Light bulb filaments are impacted a bit each time they turn on and off, but negligibly in the grand scheme of its lifespan. Same for SWG plates?

Reading this got me thinking ... If the solar was delayed and did not turn on until after the pump has already been running, I am not sure if the Hayward temporarily disables the SWG while the solar valve is turning and priming the panels or not. I think I have read that it does, but I am not positive. I also think that if the flow switch gets tripped off, there may be a require delay of a few minutes before is it allow to turn back on. So the initial air might trip the flow switch and then the SWG may have to wait a bit (until hopefully the solar prime is complete) before turning back on. But, again, I would have to do some more reading and experiments to see how it actually behaves in these situations.

I just know that when the pump turns on, there is a couple minute delay before the pump is allowed to switch to low speed and for the SWG to be allowed to turn energize.

I have not switch to a power plan with time-based pricing yet, but if I do, I may need to looking into some of this more :D
 
Yikes, the OP's sig spec's the iAqualink. Somebody's missin' all the facts. Me, for sure. Perhaps I am one too many cooks in this kitchen, so I better get back to work. I'll just repeat, be sure this is all cleared up before you let him do anything, or sell you something you don't need. Good luck.
 
Check out section 3.6 in the pump installation manual. It describes operation for saltwater chlorine generators.

https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0311700_reve.pdf

3.6 Auxiliary Load Operation
Certain pump models are equipped with a terminal
bar that provides user access to a built-in Auxiliary
Load relay contact. This normally-open, dry contact
is activated under certain operating conditions and is
primarily intended to be used to control external devices
that require system water flow for proper functioning,
such as heaters, booster pumps, salt water chlorinators,
etc.
See Figures 4, 5A and 5B for compartment’s
location details. An access cover with Phillips-head
screw must be removed before proceeding.

Contact Opening
If the pump speed is below 1725 RPM, the
Auxiliary Load contact is opened. Contact openings are
always immediate.
 
The OP specifically said iAqualink, but posted that the guy doing the install said he has an IQ pump. The IQ pump and iAqualink system are both controlled via the iAqualink app. I am not the OP and don't have any clue what they actually have, but the 2 are not the same just controlled via the same app. Perhaps the OP can clear us up by definitively stating whether they have an IQ20 or IQ900 wifi connect device with the pool equipment (which would indicate the iAqualink system) or if they only have the IQ pump.
 

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The OP specifically said iAqualink, but posted that the guy doing the install said he has an IQ pump. The IQ pump and iAqualink system are both controlled via the iAqualink app. I am not the OP and don't have any clue what they actually have, but the 2 are not the same just controlled via the same app. Perhaps the OP can clear us up by definitively stating whether they have an IQ20 or IQ900 wifi connect device with the pool equipment (which would indicate the iAqualink system) or if they only have the IQ pump.

I find it so annoying when a vendor uses the same brand name for multiple devices. They try and make it look like they have more integration then they really have.
 
The OP specifically said iAqualink, but posted that the guy doing the install said he has an IQ pump. The IQ pump and iAqualink system are both controlled via the iAqualink app. I am not the OP and don't have any clue what they actually have, but the 2 are not the same just controlled via the same app. Perhaps the OP can clear us up by definitively stating whether they have an IQ20 or IQ900 wifi connect device with the pool equipment (which would indicate the iAqualink system) or if they only have the IQ pump.

The Jandy overarching application is (also) called "iAqualink". That describes both their control system and just the "dumb" app that is a center for other connected apps. The pool robot cleaner (9650IQ) I have plugs into this app as well. It has its own wifi connection and controls. The IQ pumps work the same way they have a wifi connection and expanded control when used with the phone app. But the iAqualink automation system is a separate application. ajw is right, they are poorly named!
 
The OP specifically said iAqualink, but posted that the guy doing the install said he has an IQ pump. The IQ pump and iAqualink system are both controlled via the iAqualink app. I am not the OP and don't have any clue what they actually have, but the 2 are not the same just controlled via the same app. Perhaps the OP can clear us up by definitively stating whether they have an IQ20 or IQ900 wifi connect device with the pool equipment (which would indicate the iAqualink system) or if they only have the IQ pump.
I think just the iq pump. Says IQ interface. Here is a pic of the wall control. Might have to zoom in
1be2dc3524fa7194d4b46d36f3a8c205.jpg
 
FYI: You could remove that Nature2 Fusion mineral thing and replace it with the FusionSoft which is the saltwater generator version of the exact same vessel. It would make the installation go much easier. Probably the 700 would be fine but I would get the 1400 you'd never have to worry about chlorine. The advantages are it is a straight swap for your existing Nature2. It is way more "intelligent" than the TruClear. Also you should not be using the mineral cartridges with that unit in either case. They are not good for the pool or the swimmers. I have the FusionSoft and love it but have never used the mineral part of it.
 
FYI: You could remove that Nature2 Fusion mineral thing and replace it with the FusionSoft which is the saltwater generator version of the exact same vessel. It would make the installation go much easier. Probably the 700 would be fine but I would get the 1400 you'd never have to worry about chlorine. The advantages are it is a straight swap for your existing Nature2. It is way more "intelligent" than the TruClear. Also you should not be using the mineral cartridges with that unit in either case. They are not good for the pool or the swimmers. I have the FusionSoft and love it but have never used the mineral part of it.
That entire container will come out. That's where the swg is going
 
So, long story I'll try to reduce for sanity...The builder fixed a leak at the chlorine tank just before it enters coming out of the filter. He had to cut pipe. That cut is now dripping. Due to the location of it, he was going to have to rip a bunch out in order to have enough room to fix it. I had the idea of trading that labor to fix it for installing the SWG. The company agreed. This guy works for the company who owns the warranty.

All he said was.. it's hot wired at 240V so the SWG can't be connected to it to kick on at the same time. I have Iaqualink and a regular dial timer for some reason. He was going to use that regular dial timer vs the aqualink. If the only thing I get with aqualink is increasing the level, it doesn't really much to me. I would only adjust it when I test it anyway. Yes, would be much better to have the functionality but I don't know if he's BSing me or not. I don't have much options on labor since he's doing this vs fixing the leak.


Any thoughts on my other stuff in my original post?


Not sure how he means hot wired at 240v. I had the exact same salt system just installed and it uses 240v. I have an Aqualink RS8 automation system and he just hooked the SWG up to the load side of the pump and now it only comes on when the pump is running.
 
Here is the wiring diagram from the Manual PoolGate Referenced above...looks pretty easy to hard wire the TruClear Panel with the Pump and I am no expert!

Jandy.JPG

- - - Updated - - -

Now as far as using iAqualink with the TruClear and the IQPump, that doesn't look possible without upgrading to an Aqualink RS8 or other control panel...

Here is the quote from Jandy "It (..TrueClear) can also be controlled from a smart phone using the iAquaLink™ app when combined with AquaLink® Automation Systems"
 
All. I got someone out to connect to the auxiliary. Had to call jandy as the owners manual diagram did not have a scenario for 1 power source. After a small jumper on the motor, works like a charm. Turns on at 1750 rpm and shuts off on waaaay back down at 1750 rpm. Perfect!!
 
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