Switching to salt, got ???

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Chief2505

Silver Supporter
Jul 7, 2022
24
West TN
Pool Size
32000
Surface
Vinyl
I am going to switch to salt since I am replacing my liner and my cya is through the roof from the chlorine pucks. I am pretty certain I am going with the Circupool RJ 60 plus. I am currently running a single speed pump. I run my pump 12 hours a day, 7 am to 7 pm. It is on a digital timer. My heater is on direct power, not wired into my pump or timer. I will install this system myself but I have a few questions.

Will I need to replace my pump with a variable speed? After the cost of the liner and SWG I really need to slow down the outflow of money!
Can I just plug the unit into my 110v power receptacle or do I need to wire it into my timer box? From what I have read there is a flow meter so if the pump is not running the SWG will not run either. That being the case I really see no reason to mess with wiring into the timer box.
 
Chief,

Since you have a single speed pump, it is simple... You just wire the SWCG to the same power the goes to the pump. This prevents the cell from getting power when the pump if off..

You never want to rely on just the flow switch...

Cells can explode if they run with no water flow, it does not happen very often, but can happen, so better safe than sorry.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Chief2505 said:
I run my pump 12 hours a day, 7 am to 7 pm.
Click to expand...
My pump is larger but runs low speed 24/7 for the same energy as a little over 2 hours at full speed.

A VS pump will literally pay for itself over your single speed needing to run 12 hours a day in the peak season to produce enough FC with the 2X SWG. Then it will pay for itself again, and maybe again.
 
I am looking at the SJ 55 versus the RJ60. $500 price difference. I had found an article explaining the difference in the two systems but I cannot find it now to refresh my memory! Plus I need to add in the cost of almost !,000 pounds of salt!! Will my Taylor test kit still work for PH, AL and chlorine tests? I know it will not measure salt but will I need a new test kit for PH and AL as well?
Should there be a bypass installed so you can still flow water without generating salt? Can you turn the SWG off and just have water flowing through it? I read that many times the SWG does not have to run for as long as your pump may need to run.
 
Chief2505 said:
I am looking at the SJ 55 versus the RJ60. $500 price difference. I had found an article explaining the difference in the two systems but I cannot find it now to refresh my memory! Plus I need to add in the cost of almost !,000 pounds of salt!! Will my Taylor test kit still work for PH, AL and chlorine tests? I know it will not measure salt but will I need a new test kit for PH and AL as well?
Should there be a bypass installed so you can still flow water without generating salt? Can you turn the SWG off and just have water flowing through it? I read that many times the SWG does not have to run for as long as your pump may need to run.
Click to expand...

Lots to unpack
1) 1000lbs of salt - this is about $125 - if you are draining/refilling, then yes, you'll need this. You don't need special pool salt ;)
2) RJ is a little more expensive, but from what I could see, was the better overall package in terms of flexibility, power, salt requirements etc ( full disclosure : I have an RJ60+ :) )
3) Your Existing PH/TA tests will be fine. You should get a salt test kit - K-1766, or talk to the guys at TFTestkits.net
4) A bypass is not really necessary. You can simply power it off, or adjust the power to line up with your pump-run-time. It won't impact flow significantly.
5) You adjust your SWG power setting in line with your pump run time to generate enough FC over the run-time period for your daily needs.
 
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SJPoe said:
Lots to unpack
1) 1000lbs of salt - this is about $125 - if you are draining/refilling, then yes, you'll need this. You don't need special pool salt ;)
2) RJ is a little more expensive, but from what I could see, was the better overall package in terms of flexibility, power, salt requirements etc ( full disclosure : I have an RJ60+ :) )
3) Your Existing PH/TA tests will be fine. You should get a salt test kit - K-1766, or talk to the guys at TFTestkits.net
4) A bypass is not really necessary. You can simply power it off, or adjust the power to line up with your pump-run-time. It won't impact flow significantly.
5) You adjust your SWG power setting in line with your pump run time to generate enough FC over the run-time period for your daily needs.
Click to expand...
Yes, I am having a new liner installed in 2 weeks and will be converting to salt right after the pool gets refilled, which with my water pressure might take another week!!
 
Chief2505 said:
Yes, I am having a new liner installed in 2 weeks and will be converting to salt right after the pool gets refilled, which with my water pressure might take another week!!
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As my wife likes to remind me - don't sweat the $100 option on the $3000 job...
The long-term advantages of the SWG are so worth it.
Make sure you post pics !!
 
SJPoe said:
As my wife likes to remind me - don't sweat the $100 option on the $3000 job...
The long-term advantages of the SWG are so worth it.
Make sure you post pics !!
Click to expand...
LOL I need to listen to myself! A friend just spent a couple hundred thousand on a pool and pool house etc and was crying about his kids probably going to go through $500 of propane this month! LOL I told him in the scheme of things, after all you spent you are worried about $500 of propane? I am ordering the Rj 60+!! Thank you for the reminder!!
 
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Chief2505 said:
The RJ 60 will measure my salt content so I will not need a salt PPM test kit
Click to expand...
It's not very accurate so you'll want to dose using a k1766 as your guide, and hope the SWG agrees. Unfortunately you can't argue with it, even when you know better
 
Chief2505 said:
Yes, you are correct it should be chlorine not salt. The RJ 60 will measure my salt content so I will not need a salt PPM test kit
Click to expand...
You will still need a salt test kit (Taylor K-1766) to accurately measure salt.

Prior to adding any salt to your pool, test the salt level. You may he surprised to see how much salt is already in the pool water.

Also, try a salt level around 3000 ppm initially. Salt level should be checked monthly with a test kit or more often if you have excessive splashout or a significant rain event.
 
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