Switching to salt, do I need a new test kit and routine?

Skenn81

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2018
372
Florida
Switching over this summer to a SWG system. Been doing the usual TFP method for years now so this is going to be an adjustment. I have a Taylor K-2006 kit, do I need something new now? Any guides out there on how to adapt to my new situation and what I should be doing differently?
 
How often do I need to test salt? I do CL and PH multiple times a week, and I do CYA, CH, and TA once a month.

So now instead of adding chlorine I have to turn a dial or something? Bringing my CL up now is plugging my numbers into the calculator, getting the number and pouring some in.
 
Only addition is the salt kit above, you will test PH, FC and everything like you normally do... biggest change is you will want to increase your cya to about 70 for it and as you test FC you will get dialed in on what % to run your swcg at..
 
I only test for salt if my pool has received enough rain to where water runs out my overflow tube. Otherwise, the pool doesn't use up salt so the concentration should remain the same over time.
 
I recently made the change, and initially I was making SWG and pump run time adjustments daily to dial my Cl level in. Now I still test daily, but its more or less out of habit. I haven't really made any changes since then, although I may manually start my pump early if I see it will be a hot sunny day. My chlorine has been between 5-7 ppm every time I have checked in the last few weeks.
 
Okay so I am looking at the chart...


70 on a SWG only needs CL of 5 while on my normal liquid here 70 is way on the upper end needs 8-10 for me to survive?

Why does SWG need less cl for the same cya levels?
 

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Okay so I am looking at the chart...


70 on a SWG only needs CL of 5 while on my normal liquid here 70 is way on the upper end needs 8-10 for me to survive?

Why does SWG need less cl for the same cya levels?
The level accounts for swg being a slow addition throughout the day instead of a high dump then falling the swg will maintain the fc pretty steady
 
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Oh..

So the 6 to 6.5 I raise my CL to now is not to keep it at a 6 but to keep it so as it drops over the course of a day or two it stays at the limit I need it to keep the pool clear? With a SWG keeping it at 3 is actually keeping it at 3 for a longer period of time so less of a chance for it all to go green?

So this means I have to then run the pump a lot more?
 
IDk if you would have to it's kind of an either or swg percentage & run time my vsp pump runs 24/7 so I just set my swg percentage As low as possible to maintain what I want
 
Okay, the SWG is finally getting turned on today. I have the salt ready to go and the Taylor test kit to begin learning how to use those drops.

So first things first, the manual says to get the salt to 3600 for optimum levels. Follow that guidelines or is there something here I should be following instead?

For the % on the system, does anyone have anything to read on how that works? I don't know what to set it at, as in I am not sure how the % impacts the salt level. I know it represents the percentage of time it is making salt but how do I know how the % translates to what chlorine it will get the overall pool to be once its running for a few days?

I see the levels linked above, so I will begin increasing to CYA of 70 once everything is turned on. It's around 40 now.
 
Test your current salt level 1st. Liquid chlorine & other forms of chlorine add salt to the water so u may be surprised at the level that’s already in the water. When u go to add the salt do as mentioned above & add a bag or so less than what PoolMath calls for as to not overshoot the target . Then let it circulate & test again the next day & add more if necessary. Do not turn on your swg during this process. When you’re adding large amounts of salt u always want the swg off. Small additions are ok as they dissolve & get mixed in quite quickly.
 
Okay. Just so I know why, we leave the swg off during this process why? I will, just want to understand so I know what I am doing.

For adding the salt, add it into deep end or shallow? Do I need to mix it up or anything or just let the water circulation do it's thing.

When dialing in the SWG settings as people are saying, where do you start with it? Pentair iChlor 30 rated for pools up to 30,000 gallons, mine is someplace around half to 18,000ish gallons. Says it makes 1.0 Chlorine produced lbs (kg.) per hour in the manual.
 
Please add what SWCG you are installing to your signature. Also update the volume of your pool as it shows 15000 gallons and you are saying 18000 gallons.
If a high salinity surge of water goes through the SWCG when on it can create a surge of amperage that can damage the electronics. The iChlor is not real robust and thus you need to be careful with it.
Start by setting the SWCG to create 3 ppm FC per day in your pool. That will be a setting of 100% generation for 18 hours per day. Test FC daily and adjust as necessary to get to where the FC is relatively stable.
 
I have 15,000 gallons because that's what we all estimated here when I first moved in. The 18,000 is from the letter the pool company gave me to submit to the water company as they weren't sure either. Is there a way to actually figure out how large my pool is? I know the calc has the "Estimating pool volume" section but mine is some freeform kidney kind of shape. 34 feet long, 15' across in deep end at 8 feet, 21' across in shallow end which is 3'-4'. Picture I have handy:

i5j2eTE.jpg


I added SWG to sig, forgot all about that.

"Start by setting the SWCG to create 3 ppm FC per day in your pool. That will be a setting of 100% generation for 18 hours per day. " - How do you know this? Is there a chart I can reference to understand how I know x % for y hours = z cl?
 
How do you know this?
PoolMath -- Effects of Adding Chemicals.

I would segment your pool into a couple sections and then do a quick calculation. Or just use your chemical additions and testing to hone in. If you are unsure, use the larger number for now.
 

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