Swimpure Plus Every morning Salt Low or Hi

[TimeOut]

Long time lurker, first time poster. Appreciate all the advice this forum has provided over the years, it’s really been educational and saved me a lot of money on chemical balancing tips.

Have run into a problem I can’t seem to resolve so far by throwing parts at it. Hayward SwimPure Plus Panel and T-15 Cell. It began as a continuous saltwater lo red light warning every morning even though I keep (and repeatedly test) the salt at around 3000-3200. Have to turn switch off then back on then reset it and it would work for the day. Rinse/repeat. It won’t turn on by itself, have to manually turn switch off and on for it to work thru the day.

At first thought it was the salt cell itself just getting old. I had tried cleaning it, no success. Replaced it with a Pureline equvalent from Inyo pools but same behavior with that cell. Then I replaced the pcb board on the panel, still no difference. It almost always the SLo warning but occasionally shows SHi. At the point now of replacing both panel & cell together but thought I would post here first and see if there is anything else I can do that might be cheaper than swapping it all out? Thanks in advance, appreciate any ideas/suggestions!
Current diagnostics:
84
25.0
-06.20
80P
-3100
Al-0
r016
H-15
-E000
—EE

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Is the SWG powered when the pump is OFF?

Does the SWG show NO FLOW when the pump is OFF?

What is your pump runtime?

 

[TimeOut]

Welcome to TFP.

Is the SWG powered when the pump is OFF?

Does the SWG show NO FLOW when the pump is OFF?

What is your You’re thinking swg is staying on and messing up when the flow is off?

Welcome to TFP.

Is the SWG powered when the pump is OFF?

Does the SWG show NO FLOW when the pump is OFF?

What is your pump runtime?

Ahhh that might be it - staying on when pump is off? Maybe just the flow switch issue? I just went outside and manually turned it off then after a minute or so I get this. Still shows generating but current (live) ppm is at 0000 when I hit diagnostics 5x.

 

[TimeOut]

I think you gave me enough in those questions to solve it. I did already have an extra flow switch on hand and now I get the flow off when pump turns off. This is what the old flow switch looked like. Left this out in initial post but I have had some nickel at first then iron in the water. Was using a metal sequester and culator packets to capture it. Wonder if that old flow switch is where it was coming from. I did also have the liner replaced within the last year and thought the metal might be coming from newer screws (which might not be good stainless ones) by the liner installer but now I’m wondering if it was just a degraded flow switch.

 

[ajw22]

Glad we could help you.

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[JamesW]

Left this out in initial post but I have had some nickel at first then iron in the water.

How did you test for nickel?

 

[TimeOut]

Not a true water test, Culator packets color indicated it by what it was removing out of the water. I had begun metal sequestering and culator use (after dropping chlorine) when my white stairs started turning orange/brown & citric/absorbic fixed it. Using 2 powerpak 1.0 in skimmer and one powerpack 4.0 in pump basket. They indicated nickle by their color (green) at first. After I replaced them then they started indicating iron (yellow). I SLAMmed it, had to repeat. Might have to do it all again till I get the metal issue figured out but it seems to be helping every round. I even pulled out the light to check the backside & found a rusting nut that was holding bulb. Thought that might be it, still out on pool deck. Don’t believe it’s my city water supply, yet at least.

 

[JamesW]

Culator packets color indicated it by what it was removing out of the water.

I wouldn't put too much faith into that.

 

[TimeOut]

Gotcha, wasn’t sure if I should or not. Either way, metal removal is the same process so no biggie. Less staining so far.

 

[JamesW]

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