SWG Troubleshooting and Repair

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H

hezzer78

Active member
Nov 14, 2020
28
SE Texas
Hello! I have 2 questions that are semi related…

1. My SWG has suddenly stopped making chlorine. I left it on super chlorinate for 24 hrs and still reading 0 FAC. We cleaned everything and tried again and still nothing. I suspect the cell needs to be replaced (I have no idea how old it is, but we’ve been in this house for 2 years). Is there any other things I could try in the meantime? It is reading way lower salt than I have in my pool as well.

2 - because I didn’t know my SWG wasn’t working, my pool sat without chlorine for prob 5-6 days? (I test weekly). No algae growth or anything. Is it necessary to shock the pool? I dumped a couple gallons of bleach in and got the chlorine up to about 10ppm. Is that ok? Is super shocking it only necessary when there’s algae? Or should I be jacking the chlorine up higher than 10 after brief periods of no chlorine?

Thanks!
 
Can you do this and let us know what the aquarite says?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:
  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Try some of the diagnostics outlined in this article:

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thank you! I’ll take a look.
randytsuch said:
Can you do this and let us know what the aquarite says?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:
  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
Click to expand...
2100 (measured salt is about 3000)
87
32.1
0
17P
0
AL - 1
r1.59
t- 15
 
hezzer78 said:
2100 (measured salt is about 3000)
Click to expand...
2100/3000 = 70%, which indicates a failing cell.

It won't produce below 2,400 ppm.

Check the cell and clean if necessary.

If cleaning does not help, you probably need a new cell.

Hayward AquaRite Replacement T-CELL-15, 40,000 Gal Pool, TurboCell, Model W3T-CELL-15 - INYOPools.com

Looking for a replacement cell for your AquaRite salt pool chlorine generator? Consider the Hayward T-Cell-15 replacement cell! This reliable and durable cell is designed to provide long-lasting performance and efficient chlorine generation for your pool. With easy installation and low...
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
 

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Hump up.

1659895014848.png

Hump down.

1659895054095.png

When the hump is up, air can accumulate and reduce the plate surface area exposed to water.

If you can't rotate it all the way down, put it sideways to reduce air trapped in the cell.

Also a higher pump speed can help clear out air from the cell.

Triple check the salinity to be 100% sure you know what it is.

Never rely completely on any single type of salinity measurement.

tftestkits.net

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net
 
mknauss said:
@JamesW if the cell is producing hydrogen bubbles, is it not producing chlorine?
Click to expand...
We're not sure that the bubbles are hydrogen.

If the instant salinity and amperage are good, then it is producing.

It might only produce on one polarity.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
 
JamesW said:
2100 (measured salt is about 3000)
87
32.1
0
17P
0
AL - 1
r1.59
t- 15

That's a low percentage.

Has that been working ok?

How are you measuring the salinity?

Check and report the readings in both polarities.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Up until last week, we’ve had no issues. It usually reads the salt higher than it actually is - this is the first time it’s been lower. I measure salinity with my k-1766 kit. The kit measured 3000 yesterday.

Here are the readings:
Off position:
2000
92
32.4
0
17P
0
AL-1
r1.59
t-15

In auto position:
2000
92
27.3
5.46
17P
-1900
AL-1
r1.59
t-15

Off for 1 min then switch to auto;
2000
92
32.5 then dropped to 27.1 then went back up to 32.5
5.9 then dropped all the way to 0
18/19 P
-2200
AL-1
r1.59
t-15
 
Maybe low salt, a bad cell, a scaled cell or air trapped in the cell.

Triple check the salinity, rotate the hump down as much as possible, increase the pump speed, clean the filter, clean the cell if it it scaled and then recheck the readings.
 
JamesW said:
Maybe low salt, a bad cell, a scaled cell or air trapped in the cell.

Triple check the salinity, rotate the hump down as much as possible, increase the pump speed, clean the filter, clean the cell if it it scaled and then recheck the readings.
Click to expand...
Checked the salinity again with my k-1766 and it was 3000 again.

Rotated hump down, increased pump speed for an hour. We cleaned the filter and cell yesterday when it had this problem. Rechecked the readings and they are the same. Guess it’s a bad cell 😞

Thank you!
 
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Reactions: JamesW
Change the cell type to T-9.

That will allow you to get some more life out of the cell.

Did the cell plates look like they were in good condition?

If they are beginning to corrode, replace the cell.

 

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