SWG reads Salt ppm OK, but salt and cell lights flashing

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T

Thurston

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Bronze Supporter
May 19, 2017
173
RI
My SWG is reading 2700 ppm, min required is 2600, yet both the Low Salt and Check Cell lights are flashing.

I inspected the cell, looked ok (but not sure what buildup on the plates really looks like), cleaned with acid anyway.

Reinstalled everything and still have the same problem!
 
The check cell light is just for periodic maintenance it can be reset by holding down the button for 5 seconds or so. The Aqua Rite system I have has a recommended salt range of 3200-3500. You need to add some salt assuming the cell is still in good condition. You might want to manually test your salt levels to be sure. Good luck.
 
The lights flash at 2,400 to 2,700 ppm but the system is still producing chlorine.

Production doesn't stop until the salinity gets below 2,400 ppm. When that happens, the lights will be solid.

Just get the salinity above 2,700 to stop the flashing.

What are the diagnostic readings?
 
Guess I should read up on diagnostics. I see that I can cycle through them but don't know what the numbers mean.

If what you all are saying is true for my cell, might just be able to add a little salt.

I did reset the check Cell light but it comes back on.
 
I don't have the Aqua Rite, but based on my SWG I'd say running your salt level so close to the threshold of the low end of the range it the likely issue. My SWG is supposed to run at 2600, but will complain about salt level at 2800. Perhaps that is similar in your model. Temperature can also affect how my SWG perceives salt level, so I run my salt level well above the low end, about half way between the low and high ends of the recommended range, to accommodate for fluctuations in the actual level, and the inconsistencies of the SWG's ability to monitor water conditions.

In other words, unless it would compromise the high end of your SWGs operational range for salt, throw in a bag and see if that solves your problem. Or wait for an Aqua Rite expert to happen along to see if they have a better idea.

The calcium build up on the plates is very obvious. It's stark white and quite easy to see. Cleaning with acid does impact the life of your plates, so you shouldn't unless you need to.
 
I got the reading off the SWG panel. Added 3 bags (120lbs total). Lights stopped flashing but I'm only up to 2800 now... according to pool math this should have brought me up to 3000-3100.
 
Thurston said:
I got the reading off the SWG panel. Added 3 bags (120lbs total). Lights stopped flashing but I'm only up to 2800 now... according to pool math this should have brought me up to 3000-3100.
Click to expand...
Did you confirm the salinity level using a reliable test kit like the K-1766? Suggest you read the below troubleshooting guidelines and save a copy for future reference.

Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting
 

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Meadow said:
Did you confirm the salinity level using a reliable test kit like the K-1766? Suggest you read the below troubleshooting guidelines and save a copy for future reference.

Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting
Click to expand...

So it's been a whole month and I finally got my act together and bought a K-1766 salt test. The salt level is 3400 according to the test vs 2700 reading on the unit. What should I do? Clean the cell again and try to do a better job of it?

Here are the other numbers:

Salt (ppm) - 2700
Temp - 78
Voltage - 24.9
Amps - 5.37
Output (%) - 92P
Instant Salinity - -2700
AL-0
r1.21
 
Check instant salinity, move switch to off, wait a few minutes, move switch back to auto and recheck the instant salinity.

Turning off and back on reverses polarity. The instant salinity should be the same both ways. If not, the cell might be failing.

A lower than actual salinity reading on the box can indicate that the cell is failing. Up to about 800 ppm low, I wouldn't worry too much about. Just add salt until the box is above 2,400 to generate. At 2,400 to 2,700 ppm, the cell will generate but with a blinking check salt light.

Over 800 ppm low, it's probably time for a new cell.

How old is the cell?
 
Cells usually last about 5 to 7 years.

The serial number tells the age. It should start with a number like 5E10 or 3E14 etc.

The first number is the years of the warranty. The E means cell. The next two numbers are the year it was made.
 
The cell is probably getting near the end of its life. I think that I would try to get through this season and get a new cell next season.

As long as you can keep the box reading above 2,400 ppm, it will produce. Don't go crazy high with the actual salinity because it will be too high when you get a new cell.

Maybe limit the actual salinity to about 3,800 ppm.

If the box salinity suddenly starts to drop a lot from actual, it's time for a new cell.
 
Thanks James, really appreciate the solid advice. What's interesting to me is that I've had no problem maintaining FC levels. I suppose a new cell might work more efficiently and allow me to reduce the Output %, and that this one is working hard to keep up with it.

Do you have any experience with aftermarket cells? This one (link)is about $100 cheaper than the Hayward.
 
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