SWG Plumbing Question

tjschaefer89

Member
Oct 14, 2019
14
Phoenix, AZ
Hey all,

I'm looking to add a SWG to my setup and have started doing some reading up on DIY install vs professional, different systems to choose from, etc. I was initially thinking about adding the SWG inline immediately after the filter (red arrow), but would it be better to add it vertically at the return (blue arrow) so it's just before going back to the pool itself?

Thank you for any input you can offer.
 

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Do you have a spa ? (Plumbed out of the picture to the right ?) If so then it needs to be able to be chlorinated too. The other water features and such don't need it.

Which SWG are you looking at ? I'd go 4x in your UV rich climate. The ROI is crazy for going large. I'll use pentair as an example :

IC20.
IC40. 20% more for basically two IC20s
IC60. 20% more for three IC20s.


So for roughly 44% (compounded) you get 3 times the life, which you'll need in sunny AZ.
 
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Both arrows you’ve indicated are going to be tight for the install due to the technical requirements for each mfgr wanting specific straight lengths of pipe pre-chlorinator. To my knowledge most are specd this way to provide optimal flow sensing but you can often get away with having a shorter run of straight pipe than specified.

I would look to add a vertical loop near the red arrow you’ve drawn. You may find it easiest to offset the loop to the right slightly using 90’s and then tie it back in under the 3 way valve in the manifold.
 
Do you have a spa ? (Plumbed out of the picture to the right ?) If so then it needs to be able to be chlorinated too. The other water features and such don't need it.

Which SWG are you looking at ? I'd go 4x in your UV rich climate. The ROI is crazy for going large. I'll use pentair as an example :

IC20.
IC40. 20% more for basically two IC20s
IC60. 20% more for three IC20s.


So for roughly 44% (compounded) you get 3 times the life, which you'll need in sunny AZ.
I don't have a spa, so that's not a worry. I'm looking at the CircuPool CORE55 at the moment but I'm open to suggestions. This is still in the planning stages for me. Thank you for your help!
 
Both arrows you’ve indicated are going to be tight for the install due to the technical requirements for each mfgr wanting specific straight lengths of pipe pre-chlorinator. To my knowledge most are specd this way to provide optimal flow sensing but you can often get away with having a shorter run of straight pipe than specified.

I would look to add a vertical loop near the red arrow you’ve drawn. You may find it easiest to offset the loop to the right slightly using 90’s and then tie it back in under the 3 way valve in the manifold.
Yeah, I was worried about it being too tight as well. When you say vertical loop, do you mean a simple area of pipe that moves from the filter, juts out to the right, wraps around, and inserts in the same area from the other side? Would that negatively affect the flow at all? Sorry, I'm new to this but I greatly appreciate the help!
 
Yeah, I was worried about it being too tight as well. When you say vertical loop, do you mean a simple area of pipe that moves from the filter, juts out to the right, wraps around, and inserts in the same area from the other side? Would that negatively affect the flow at all? Sorry, I'm new to this but I greatly appreciate the help!
For that SWG you need an 11 inch run total with a preference of 6” before the SWG for the flow switch. It may fit in the existing horizontal run, (red arrow) measure it up for sure. Otherwise I was suggesting you could make a 90 degree turn right to give you clearance then plumb a vertical riser that the cell would fit in and loop back down to reattach Into the 3 way you have in the manifold. I’d draw you a 3rd grad pic but the picture you’ve attached isn’t very conducive to my poor drawing skills. 🤣
 
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I'm looking at the CircuPool CORE55 at the moment but I'm open to suggestions.
That's a great unit for 17k gallons. Look at the RJ60+ also. It makes considerably more FC for being rated only a little larger. If the cost difference between the two is right, it might be a no brainer. Or, the 55 is plenty big and also a savings.
When you say vertical loop
Yup. Think 3 dimensionally and don't be restricted to what you see. You can go front/back, left/right, up/down......

The flow switch needs horizontal or upflow. If it's mounted with down flow, gravity may close it when it fails. (Not if..... its only a matter of time even if it'd far off).

Some 90s won't make and appreciable difference. They put many in the dirt, never to be seen again but folk obsess over the 3 they can see.
 

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If your box is Prologic, then it has the chlorinator power supply built in.

If it is E-Command, I think that it does not have a built in power supply, but you can remove the panel to look.

The E-Command will work best with an Aquarite and a T-15 cell.
 
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OVERVIEW
FEATURES
Control Pool or Spa Functions and Costs, E-Command and OnCommand systems are the easy and cost-effective way to automate essential pool or spa functions.

Automate schedules to turn lights on at night or manage an energy saving 2-speed or variable speed pump for better efficiency.

Functions can be set up to run automatically or can be controlled from an optional wireless remote.

The base E-Command system has a built-in electrical subpanel and both systems support 4 high-voltage relays, 3 valve actuators, 1 heater and solar.

What ever the function, pool owners can maintain basic control of their pool or spa with E-Command or OnCommand systems.

• Built-in electrical subpanel (HPC Models only),

• Cost-effective, entry-level control and automation for single bodies of water,

• Comes equipped with 4 high-voltage relays, 3 valves, 1 heater and solar,

• On-board control and diagnostics displays time, day, water and air temperatures, and all control functions,

• Intuitive programming and easy-to-read large digital display allows you to set up the controller in minutes,

• Manages energy saving 2-speed or variable speed pumps (California Title 20 compliant) and other backyard functions to maximize energy savings,

• LED light on/off control, Options and Accessories,

• Optional AC relay kit,

• Optional sensor kit,

• Optional 6-function wireless remote with a range up to 500' feet
 
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Another quick question, the outlets on the side of the control panel, are those specifically for addition of a SWG? I'm hoping to be able to just plug into those to make everything easier.
I can answer this one! Do you have lights in your pool? A lot of times the 110v supply to the light transformer is wired through a GFCI outlet in order to add that protection to the system. Outlets SHOULD be fully functional and fine to plug a SWCG into
 
I have NO problems drawing like a 3rd grader. :ROFLMAO:

Go over as far as you need before going up with the loop. (As one option)

View attachment 558411
I know you've honed your 3rd grade drawing skills for years...I've witnessed it. I don't have that much dedication to the craft yet 😂
 
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If looking at the Circupol - look at the RJ45+ price and the (presently) $10 upgrade to the RJ60+.
With a 17k pool in PHX, you'd be best served by the RJ60+ as it will provide more flexibility with run times in the heat of summer. I'm not a fan of the Core series all in one solution - the RJ series is better IMHO.

What pump do you have?

Update your signature with pool equipment manufacturers and model numbers.
 
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I apologize for the delay in my response, yesterday was a very rough day. I've updated my signature with model numbers and here is the control panel I have.

So the SWG would have to be connected to the left side of the main part of the panel? On those load terminals? Is that a job a DIY-er can accomplish?

Thank you all for the continued support, it's very much appreciated right now
 

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You would connect SWG power to the Filter Pump Relay Load terminals.

The Filter Pump Relay should be the top left relay.

The AquaRite will communicate best with your system, but that is not critical.

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Hayward Prologic.jpg
 
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Hayward Aqua Rite or Hayward Swimpure Chlorinator
The ECOMMAND 4 can control one or more Hayward Aqua Rite or Hayward Swimpure chlorinators when additional sanitizing capacity is required.

A 4 wire connection is used to communicate to the Aqua Rite/Swimpure and can be wired up to 500’ apart.

Any outdoor rated 4 conductor cable can be used.

Refer to the wiring diagrams below for proper wiring connection to the Aqua Rite/Swimpure.
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