SWG not producing —PCB or cell?

[whittenorganizedchaos]

First season with a pool and it seems our AquariteT15 pro is not producing chlorine or is seriously underperforming. Latest salt test (k-1766) was 2600 and FASDPD Chlorine I could not get to turn more than a very faint pink despite shoveling the DPD powder and our water is cloudy with signs of low chlorine and something floating on the water, which I’m scared is algae though water isn’t green.

I tried to recalibrate the salt reading because it said 3100 on the box but definitely was not. I followed directions to a T and now it just says “0.” It never even counted down. We removed the salt cell to clean it but no residue or build up was seen so we did not. The sensor looked gross with red stuff on it. Husband is an electronic engineer and said it looks like it’s probably bad.

Diagnostic readings (same whether on auto, off, etc):
0 (average salt)
71
0.00
0.00
52p
-0
AL-2
R1.58
T15

Cell: 3E1349200735
Box: 3A0801-1013745
How do we know if it is the cell or PCB? Thermistor? Do I shock it or add chlorine somehow until this is solved?

Husband is an electronics engineer and will do whatever is needed but frankly doesn’t have enough brain power after work for this trouble shooting part and he wasn’t exactly thrilled about the pool We bought this house in December and I don’t know the pool history BUT I am beginning to see why their closet is full of chlorine shock. Any help is appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Your cell is 9 years old from 2013 and probably depleted. Take the cell to a pool store that can test a Hayward cell and see how it tests.

Have your hubby read this Wiki and examine the board for burnt components or solder points.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[whittenorganizedchaos]

Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure how old it was but 9 year old cell may explain it. I will make some calls tomorrow. After any of the non-OEM cells “safe”? They’re certainly cheaper.

 

[ajw22]

Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure how old it was but 9 year old cell may explain it.

The year of manufacture is the third and fourth digit of the serial number.

After any of the non-OEM cells “safe”? They’re certainly cheaper.

Some people have success with them and some don’t. Quality varies and the cell often does not have the life of a Hayward cell.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

@OP, the diagnostic reading is suggesting you have an Aquarite mainboard with software revision 1.58 and not an Aquarite Pro (see pics). For the Aquarite GLX-PCB-RITE, the diagnostic should read 30-32 Volts dc even without the cell connected to the mainboard. Inspect the Thermistor for cracks or burned solder joint.

 

[whittenorganizedchaos]

Thank you. My husband will open it up and check it out. Either way the cell is 9 years old too and most likely needs to be replaced as well, right ?

In the meantime should we SLAM the pool? The chlorine level is so low I can’t even get it to register with my Taylor test kit. I don’t want to make it harder to switch back to the salt system once we get it up and running but I don’t want algae either. Thank you.

 

[ajw22]

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to determine if you need the SLAM Process.

Raise your FC up ASAP and follow the Liquid Chlorine section until you get your SWG running - FC/CYA Levels

 

[Mdragger88]

Thank you. My husband will open it up and check it out. Either way the cell is 9 years old too and most likely needs to be replaced as well, right ?

In the meantime should we SLAM the pool? The chlorine level is so low I can’t even get it to register with my Taylor test kit. I don’t want to make it harder to switch back to the salt system once we get it up and running but I don’t want algae either. Thank you.

Use liquid chlorine to get to target on the manually chlorinated side of the FC/CYA Levels & then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight.
If you fail —> SLAM Process
If you pass —> maintain target fc daily with liquid chlorine until things get sorted.

 

[levoy_h]

Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure how old it was but 9 year old cell may explain it. I will make some calls tomorrow. After any of the non-OEM cells “safe”? They’re certainly cheaper.

Assuming the cell has been in use for the entire 9 yrs, it's toast. I've never found the in-store testers to be reliable - at least not the one at my local store. I paid $400 for my replacement Hayward T-15 in 2015. Same cell at same (online) store is $900 today. That's almost as much as I paid for the entire system in 2008. I'm looking at alternatives.

 

[whittenorganizedchaos]

@OP, the diagnostic reading is suggesting you have an Aquarite mainboard with software revision 1.58 and not an Aquarite Pro (see pics). For the Aquarite GLX-PCB-RITE, the diagnostic should read 30-32 Volts dc even without the cell connected to the mainboard. Inspect the Thermistor for cracks or burned solder joint.

It was indeed the thermistor. He has ordered the replacement. How complicated is it? Hopefully nothing an electronics engineer can’t figure out. Thanks !