SWG install - any layout suggestions?

[Hal3]

Finally getting to SWG install. Blue Works BLSC40-B T.

I am planning to remove the old tab dispenser and splice in somewhere. There is not enough room! So, I need to add more pipe. I also need room for the flow sensor.

Considerations:

1. Mount vertical or horizontal?
2. Be mindful of keeping safe distance from the heater.
3. Avoid adding unnecessary twists and turns to the flow path.
4. Where to place the flow sensor.
also,
Best way to coordinate Pentair Variable Speed Pump with the SWG power supply.

All comments, advice, and snide remarks welcome!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You could move the outlet pipe from the heater back to a 45 degree angle (similar to inlet) which extends the lower section of pipe where the tab feeder is. You should be able to find plenty of room for the flow switch on one of the free sections of pipe (see Xs in photo). You'll need to play with section lengths, but something like this...

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You need some type of separate timer for the SWG that activates inside pump run times. There are many options, from mechanical timers, to WiFi relays. I used an Intermatic mechanical timer for a while until I installed a simple Sonoff WiFi switch.

 

[Hal3]

You could move the outlet pipe from the heater back to a 45 degree angle (similar to inlet) which extends the lower section of pipe where the tab feeder is.

Thank you! Just the suggestion I needed. For some reason I was mentally locked into 90 degree solutions.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Thank you! Just the suggestion I needed. For some reason I was mentally locked into 90 degree solutions.

Similar to my set up, only upside down...

 

[Hal3]

You need some type of separate timer for the SWG that activates inside pump run times. There are many options, from mechanical timers, to WiFi relays. I used an Intermatic mechanical timer for a while until I installed a simple Sonoff WiFi switch.

I try to avoid simple solutions whenever possible! I have the variable speed pump set to operate 24/7 although at a low speed most of the time. So, I suppose I could just leave the SWG power supply on all the time and turn down the output as needed to keep the chlorine level where it needs to be. The generator is rated at 40k gallons and my pool is about 9k so there should be plenty of room to work.


I'm not sure that's the best way to run the pump but it's a start.

 

[crusemm]

My install, I elected to put it in vertically (I have also eliminated my heater, but that's a separate issue) It works great with the VS pump. I will see if I can find some pics

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I have the variable speed pump set to operate 24/7 although at a low speed most of the time...I'm not sure that's the best way to run the pump but it's a start.

Lots of members do it that way...no problem at all. It actually saves wear and tear on the pump. I'm on a Time of Use energy plan, so it doesn't make "dollars and sense" for me.

 

[crusemm]

Before - These two stubs used to go to/from my heater



After- Vertical Install

 

[Hal3]

Worked perfectly!

You could move the outlet pipe from the heater back to a 45 degree angle (similar to inlet) which extends the lower section of pipe where the tab feeder is. You should be able to find plenty of room for the flow switch on one of the free sections of pipe (see Xs in photo). You'll need to play with section lengths, but something like this...
View attachment 398615

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Great! I was thinking you could just rotate the 90 off the heater back 45 degrees, but that works too.

You have one "sweep" 90 degree fitting just before the cell. Are you sure it's a SCH 40 rated for pressure and not DWV (Drain, Waste Vent). Although they do make pressure rated SCH 40 fittings in the this style, they're hard to find at HD and Lowes. It will probably be fine pressure wise, but they are more likely to leak at the socket. If it doesn't leak you should be fine.

Looks like you added an additional threaded 3/4" fitting (with a plug). Is this for a hose bib?

 

[Hal3]

Great! I was thinking you could just rotate the 90 off the heater back 45 degrees, but that works too.

You have one "sweep" 90 degree fitting just before the cell. Are you sure it's a SCH 40 rated for pressure and not DWV (Drain, Waste Vent). Although they do make pressure rated SCH 40 fittings in the this style, they're hard to find at HD and Lowes. It will probably be fine pressure wise, but they are more likely to leak at the socket. If it doesn't leak you should be fine.

Looks like you added an additional threaded 3/4" fitting (with a plug). Is this for a hose bib?

I did not know to look for a schedule 40 sweep. Hopefully, it won't leak. I was deliberate with the primer and glue and I am letting it dry overnight.

1/2 inch fitting is future home of a temperature sensor!

Stay tuned ...

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Interesting. I just installed a Sonoff TH16 over the weekend. I used a 2in thermowell inside of that same half-inch fitting. Working good so far.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

It just occurred to me though. Your temperature fitting is on the output side of your heater, so you we'll see water temps coming directly out of the heater. If you want pool temps while the heater is running, the sensor should be placed on the intake side.

 

[Hal3]

It just occurred to me though. Your temperature fitting is on the output side of your heater, so you we'll see water temps coming directly out of the heater. If you want pool temps while the heater is running, the sensor should be placed on the intake side.

Good point on the location of the temperature sensor. I thought I would just put it there because it was easy during the SWG install.

I have several Sonoff TH16s and temperature probes waiting to do something. I guess I will have to put another probe before the heater. I plan to flash them with Tasmota and monitor them with my Hubitat smart home hub. Not sure exactly what I am going to do with the information.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I used a dry contact relay coming off the TH16 that's connected to the fireman's switch on my heater. Similar to a thermostat, the device will turn the heater on and off based on set temperatures. It also provides remote/manual on/off control and temperature adjustment.

I don't use the heater that much, but it's nice to have if I want to fire up the spa ahead of time.

 

[Hal3]

I also have one of these waiting for installation. My plan is to be able to turn on the heater and set the valve in the heat spa position remotely or according to a schedule.

Zodiac 4424 180-DIG 24-VAC Packout Assembly Replacement for Select Zodiac Jandy JVA Pool and Spa Valve Actuators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TKTMCK/

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Take a look at the low budget automation build in my signature. I have absolutely no coding experience, but it may be of some use to you. Generally, use Alexa routines for control of the devices. It works great for me.

 

[Hal3]

I also have one of these waiting for installation. My plan is to be able to turn on the heater and set the valve in the heat spa position remotely or according to a schedule.

Zodiac 4424 180-DIG 24-VAC Packout Assembly Replacement for Select Zodiac Jandy JVA Pool and Spa Valve Actuators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TKTMCK/

Planning to use one of these to control the valve.

Zooz 800 Series Z-Wave Long Range MultiRelay ZEN16 800LR with 3 Dry Contact Relays (20A, 15A, 15A)

Get It Done PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS 3 Powerful Dry Contact Relays to add Z-Wave control to any 12 - 240 V load under 15A / 20A NEW 800 chip: more range, faster signal, SmartStart inclusion + S2 security Z-Wave Long Range ready: extend the wireless coverage up to 1300 feet if your hub supports Long...

www.thesmartesthouse.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Sounds like an interesting project. Hopefully you can post your finished system.