Swapping cord with burnt connector on Hayward T-Cell

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H

hleapha

0
Jun 16, 2009
39
South Carolina
I was looking at buying this used cell listed as Not working, For parts. It's my impression that this could be caused by a bad connection with the board, a wiring with the board, lightening, or bad connection in the cell (maybe?). If I know MY board is good, then maybe it was only an issue with the seller's equipment and I can just replace the cord with an older one. Is this possible? Any other thoughts?

t-cell-cord.jpg
 
It is possible to wire a new connector. I don't know the color code for the wires but the connector is a Molex standard product. The hardest part would be insuring that your final repair is fully waterproof.
 
chiefwej said:
It is possible to wire a new connector. I don't know the color code for the wires but the connector is a Molex standard product. The hardest part would be insuring that your final repair is fully waterproof.
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Thanks for the responces - I ended up offering the guy $55 shipped for this ebay listing , and getting it.

I had used the TFP search tool before I got responses and read about splicing a new connector - which I could take off one of my old cells. The item I purchased was manufactured at the end of 2015 and was a store return. Doing the math, this thing was used for the 2016 season at most. I am thinking it could have been a customer with a bad board: they burned up the old connector, thought it was the cell, and proceeded to burn up the new cell connector. I spoke with Hayward and asked them a what-if scenario since the cell would be under 3 year warranty. They said that if there is a burnt up connection, they require a service visit at the owner's expense to make sure that it isn't a bad board. I'm thinking that's what happened here. Bad assumption??

Is there too much risk to just let the burnt connector ride? I haven't received it yet so I can't really inspect the integrity of the plug.
 
Take the cell to a pool store that has a test for the cell and see if it passes the test. You might not need to do anything to the cell. It might just have a burnt connector from the board getting hot at that junction. Most Leslie's have a test unit for T-Cells.
 
That plug burned because it was the point where the line was the thinnest. Either because the amperage draw was higher than what the plug was rated for (board didn't control properly), or it could have been that the plug wasn't securely connected, or the socket connection to the board was thin (I know Liz, that doesn't happen). What i'm saying is, whether or not that cell is ok is 50/50 at best. Time will certainly tell. I think at the very least, the integrity of that plug has been compromised, and should not be used. The connection on the new plug will be in your hands. For the best connection, I recommend to solider it if the plugs' connection allows.
 
Pool Clown said:
That plug burned because it was the point where the line was the thinnest. Either because the amperage draw was higher than what the plug was rated for (board didn't control properly), or it could have been that the plug wasn't securely connected, or the socket connection to the board was thin (I know Liz, that doesn't happen). What i'm saying is, whether or not that cell is ok is 50/50 at best. Time will certainly tell. I think at the very least, the integrity of that plug has been compromised, and should not be used. The connection on the new plug will be in your hands. For the best connection, I recommend to solider it if the plugs' connection allows.
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I can take a full plug and cord off an older unit and solder it into the cell. It's not hard to pop off the plastic on the cell and see where the wiring starts. I should be able to solder the new cord in there where I don't have to worry about being water tight. The plug, as-is, is definitely not working. The plastic just crumbles away. What are the chances that the cell itself (not the connector or board) caused this? Since my board is good, and I should be able to restore the connection's integrity, what could go wrong?
 

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hleapha said:
I can take a full plug and cord off an older unit and solder it into the cell.
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BINGO!

What are the chances that the cell itself (not the connector or board) caused this? Since my board is good, and I should be able to restore the connection's integrity, what could go wrong?
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Like i said, i can only tell you what happened to the plug, not what component caused it. Not being on site, it would be irresponsible for me to tell you exactly what part failed. Just can't tell from here. I will say that when the cell grows old/ fails, it will draw less and less amperage, not more. That has been my experience anyway. Salinity also plays a part in how much amperage is drawn, however the unit should have limits built into it to keep the draw from running away.
 
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