sundance 880 shorting after refill

dogman

Active member
May 8, 2014
41
missouri
Ok so its a nice day in Feb so I decide to drain the hot tub and refill. done this many times. this time turned it back on and let the heater pump run through the waterfall no problem. turned on pumps to add bleach etc. ran for a bit and then breaker popped. I reset breaker turned on pump 2 no problem. turned on pump 1 ran and then tripped. I opened side panel to access pumps and saw a little water under pump next to control box. I think is pump 2. All dry around the pump to the right . all fittings are dry all hoses above are dry; control box is dry at least the box it's top and underneath. I did not unscrew it. I resent breaker and ran pump 2 no problem and did not see any leaks. turned it off and ran pump 1 which ran for about 20 seconds and then blew the breaker. again did not see any visible signs of a leak and all fittings seem dry. NO codes on the control panel other than ICE which I would expect with a water temp of 49 since I just refilled it.

Currently have a fan running on the control area to dry the bottom. I did not use the drain valve since I have a portable pump to drain the tub. the area around the drain valve fittings was dry.

Any thoughts? I have about 2 days before the temps dip back below 32 down to about 25 at night and mod 30s during the day.

1. could an air lock have caused water to come out a pump somehow?
2 outside temp today was 65 and tub water temp right before the change was 102
3. Bad GFCI but I cannot explain the water in the control area. was only about a mm and only around the one pump and then kind of moved right to left away from the pumps (towards the low side I assume).

plan is to allow the box fan to dry the area and turn on again to see if it leaks again and area. if no leak, I guess contribute to water from the refill but honestly cannot think how it got there. I did not spray down the tub and it is in an enclosed area so no rain etc.

thanks
 

dogman

Active member
May 8, 2014
41
missouri
I always turnoff the breaker before draining so it had no power. when I turn it back on, the circulating pump works fine and the heater is on. no codes. always possible that moisture may have caused the water/dampness or excess overflow foam which always collects on that side. the area is almost dry so will give it a shot to see if I can narrow the focus areas.

what happened when you left the power on?

thanks for the prompt response
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
19,111
Bedford, TX
dm,

I was thinking about your heater running without any water...

I lost the circulation pump... I replaced it, but it hurt more just knowing I caused it. It did not trip the GFCI..

Moisture will certainly cause the GFCI to pop, but it has to be on the electrical connections.. If your spa is like mine, water can't get inside the pump area unless from a leak. And, unless the leak actually gets into some electrical equipment it is not going to pop the GFCI...

I like your plan to dry everything out and see what happens..

The number one reason for Spa GFCI issues is the heater.. It could just be coincidence that is popping the GFCI now.. I would set the temp off or very low and see if it continues to pop just to rule it out..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

dogman

Active member
May 8, 2014
41
missouri
well figured it out. Looks like pump 2 is leaking from the pump housing. the connections don't appear to leak and only leaks under pressure. water is moving left to right but appears right to left once it pools. I guess maybe a seal or something blew?

is there a way to disco the pump 2 from the board so that I can let the spa run with heater until I have a replacement pump? Also, I assume I will need to drain it to replace the pump.