N
Nessundo
I've used another forum in the past, but my problem was never resolved. Doing some 'Googling' and ran across TFP which looks promising. I'm an excellent DIY and have a degree in electronics engineering, so I know my way around a SPA. Here's my problem. My 2000 Sundance Cameo 850 series with the 'Controller 850LCD' circuit board seems to not want to shut the heater off until I get the hi-limit sensor error of "OH" on the display. I have a free floating thermometer in the water which corresponds to the display temperature at all times. Here's the scenario: I can set the temp on the top control panel to 102 F. If the water is several degrees lower than that, the heater will run up to the OH error which is around 108 on my tub, shows 108 on the display panel, shows 108 on my free floating thermometer, and feels like 108 to the touch.
KEY NOTE: The 'heater icon' on the display does show until the 102 mark, but goes off above that, but I can still measure voltage across the heater terminals. Here's what I've done:
Any ideas? Would really appreciate it.
KEY NOTE: The 'heater icon' on the display does show until the 102 mark, but goes off above that, but I can still measure voltage across the heater terminals. Here's what I've done:
- Tested the hi-limit and temp sensors with an ohm meter while in the tub and also after bringing them into the house. The resistance matched what the tech charts said they should.
- Had an extra hi-limit and temp sensor from an issue I had years back with a heater meltdown. They tested fine and I even tried those in the SPA in place of the above ones I had already checked. Nothing changed. Heater still runs to the "OH" error.
- Replaced the circ pump in case I had a low flow problem resulting in higher than normal temps in the heater. Old one was getting old anyway, so what the heck.
- Tested the flow switch with an ohm meter while water was flowing through it and while power was shut off. Opened/Closed as it should be. Good. I have never had any "FLO" error messages.
- I pulled the motherboard and tested for shorts across the main leads on all relays. Also applied a small DC voltage, using a 9v battery, to the coil terminals on all relays and could audibly hear them opening and closing (though one for the circ pump sounded a little loose). I couldn't find a schematic for the board, so I had to visually follow the trace lines on the board. That was fun.
- Visually, the board looks good. Can't see any burn marks, blown caps, etc....
- I can run the SPA normally with the heater disconnected. All functions seem to work fine. 2-spd motor, 1-spd motor, circ pump. I don't have an ozonator or blower anymore as those gave out years back and I never replaced them. I believe in simplifying.
- With the heater connected, and it heating up so high, I have occasionally tripped the GFCI breaker. I'm going to test the resistance on the heater element in a little bit.
Any ideas? Would really appreciate it.