Pressure test is definitely in the near future because I’ve done everything but dig out my skimmer
Suction side Air leak from skimmer line
- Thread starter rp7777
- Start date
It looks like I found the issue or at least an issue under the skimmer. I dug under my skimmer since it is about 1-2ft from the edge of my deck. There is a leak in the fitting that connects directly to the underside of the skimmer. The streaming water out of the fitting occurs after I turn off the pump while the skimmer valve is open then after a while the leak slows down. Now that it is not encased in dirt, I expect my water level in my pool to drop. I have a water level bucket test setup up now so I will see what the results are tomorrow.
Question is how do resolve this issue.
Do I dig more to get better access to:
1-epoxy the leaking fitting?
2-Use the plugged hole in the skimmer and install another skimmer line and then plug the leaking line?
3-The fitting that is leaking appears to be a threaded fitting, if so I could potentially cut out the pipe below that one and then undo the fitting and install a replacement fitting and repipe to the skimmer line. Actually, I would repipe and redirect it out to the grass and connect it to the skimmer line that is in the exposed in the trenched out area...just a bit more digging to lengthen the trench.
Suggestions please.
Question is how do resolve this issue.
Do I dig more to get better access to:
1-epoxy the leaking fitting?
2-Use the plugged hole in the skimmer and install another skimmer line and then plug the leaking line?
3-The fitting that is leaking appears to be a threaded fitting, if so I could potentially cut out the pipe below that one and then undo the fitting and install a replacement fitting and repipe to the skimmer line. Actually, I would repipe and redirect it out to the grass and connect it to the skimmer line that is in the exposed in the trenched out area...just a bit more digging to lengthen the trench.
Suggestions please.
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Epoxy by me is a last case resort and has no place here. You now have to open up the area to make the repair. Cut the pipe and unscrew what you have there. If the threads are good just go it again and make it right otherwise plug it from above and use the second treaded hole.
Good job. I am surprised that leak didn't show in the dye test.
Frankly, I'd go with the other port if it was an option anyway. Then you won't have to risk breaking something trying to get that old fitting out. I have never seen one with the suction in that port, it's usually connected to a bypass port a couple feet below the skimmer, or to the main drain in some pools. Or just plugged.
I wouldn't try epoxy. Unless you enjoyed digging out that skimmer,
. If so, then by all means, put a band-aid on it. But you'll be doing it again in 5-10 years if you do a good job, and next month if you don't. I have done many epoxy repairs, don't get me wrong. It has it's place, but under your skimmer is not it.
You got this, buddy! Walk in the park from here.
Frankly, I'd go with the other port if it was an option anyway. Then you won't have to risk breaking something trying to get that old fitting out. I have never seen one with the suction in that port, it's usually connected to a bypass port a couple feet below the skimmer, or to the main drain in some pools. Or just plugged.
I wouldn't try epoxy. Unless you enjoyed digging out that skimmer,
. If so, then by all means, put a band-aid on it. But you'll be doing it again in 5-10 years if you do a good job, and next month if you don't. I have done many epoxy repairs, don't get me wrong. It has it's place, but under your skimmer is not it.You got this, buddy! Walk in the park from here.
Go to the other port and rethfead a plugged length in that one. Use tape on the threads and a skim of white pipe dope. It's a cake walk from here
Ok the general consensus is no epoxy band-aid and i understand but I must admit I was hoping there was something that could be applied.
The leaking fitting looks threaded but is it industry standard that fitting is not glued? Looking at it seems like there is is no evidence of glue but instead something that appears to be a plumbers putty or as one of you mentioned pipe dope.
This is still totally uncharted territory and digging to the center of the earth was not fun but at least I found the potential source of my problem.
If I use the other port, is that plug just threaded and not glued...I'm paranoid to try to unthread it and break/crack the skimmer.
Is the interior of the port threaded all the down? Im not sure how to establish the connection of the pipes from the underside. Not sure what type of fitting would go from the bottom.
Also how do I plug the broken port because from the top all I see is the inside of a 1 1/4 pipe. Is there such a thing an an inside plug vs a cap?
As I see it there's barely a lick of anything on that fitting. Cut the pipe and unscrew it. Plug it from above and use second hole.
The fitting is a standard male threaded adapter.
The plug should just screw out. Can't tell from the pic if they put anything on it or not.
My preferred thread sealant:
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The plug should just screw out. Can't tell from the pic if they put anything on it or not.
My preferred thread sealant:
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Looking again at the pictures, I am not quite sure if that plug will come out. I am not sure what the white stub in that port is. I can see the square top of a threaded plug through it, but it doesnt look to be threaded in. You may have to use the original port.
So that stuff around the threads is soft?
So that stuff around the threads is soft?
To me it looks like the other hole was going to be used .From the top that's clearly a plug with a square on it. From the bottom looks like they tried a mpt adapter by a slip female 11/2" and then decided not to use it.
Does that permanently attach the joint like a cement or more like a telling tape that you can undo the the joint?
It is ptfe putty, a thicker version of the stuff in the tube at home depot. They used to carry it at home depot, but stopped a few years ago. I get it from my supplier these days. It does not harden or squeeze out. Rub it across the threads like you are coloring with a crayon. Do not move around in the direction of the threads, but across the peaks to fill the valley on both male and female fittings. Do not overtighten, this is not your car.
Thank you. Makes perfect sense.
Still trying to assess which port to deal with.
I notice the unused port that has the plug appears to have the remains of a threaded fitting on the underside and it appears to cut it off leaving just about an inch of threaded fitting in the pipe. The worse part is it looks like there is glue on the underside skimmer as if they attempted to glue the fitting. I still need to dig more to get a better look or continue taking more gopro vids with an extension pole
I saw that glue stripe too. I wonder if they had trouble with that one before, and that's why they used the other port.
I lowered the water level below the skimmer line and I decided to remove the cap from the unused port and then remove the cut off piece of threaded pipe the was coming out of the bottom. This piece that was coming from the bottom did not want to budge so I used several methods with the limited space I had. I used vice grips to try to grab the small exposed piece of pipe..that did not work at all. I used channel lock pliers...another fail. I tried to wedge a piece of wood inside the pipe and force it to turn..no luck. Then I kept the wood in the pipe and tried to use the pliers again so the pipe would be squeezed between the pliers and the wood...no luck. Finally I used a reciprocating saw blade and manually cut into the edge of the pipe trying to create a "key" slot. This allowed me to turn the pipe back and forth holding the saw blade for leverage. The final push came from the top by inserting the wood with some rubber wrapped around it to make the final turn...I popped out of the bottom. success. I know this is very specific to my situation but maybe someone will find this info useful of they ever have a similar issue.
Next will be to install the new threaded fitting and begin to reroute a new suction line instead of cutting into existing line under the deck
Next will be to install the new threaded fitting and begin to reroute a new suction line instead of cutting into existing line under the deck
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If anyone has to do this type of repair a trick is to drill a appropriate size hole thru pipe. Use a larger screwdriver or even rebar whatever and spin it off that way.
I haven't seen a sawzall blade before but it works from your pics. Nice job getting it out. Now your on the home stretch
I haven't seen a sawzall blade before but it works from your pics. Nice job getting it out. Now your on the home stretch
Thanks. Hopefully someone finds my method useful. I definitely thought about drilling but I had no room at all to use a drill and there really was not much pipe to work with to even attempt to drill through it.
Another thing I tested before I removed the plug and cut off piece of pipe was I applied a liberal amount of lube on the other joint of the active skimmer pipe where the leak was occurring while the pump was running. I immediately noticed the bubbles almost completely stop at the pool return and the pump basket filled up. I then attached the hose and pool vac and it started moving around the pool. The pump was not 100% full at that point but close so that was a good sign that I am on the right track to resolving this issue.