Stripped Valve Actuator Screws

[kisonay]

Just wondering if anyone has had any success repairing a stripped screw Jandy valves. I've been chasing down a suction leak and found that two of the screws are stripped.

In order to replace the entire valve, I would need to replace quite a few pieces from the original install which I would like to avoid. My thought is to take apart the valve, use some epoxy putty to fill the two stripped wholes and then pre-thread the screws.

Has anyone been able to solve a problem like this without replacing the entire valve? I've seen some older threads but with no conclusions.

 

[Dave_NJ]

What about going up a screw size? If there is not enough material around the screw hole to allow for that then I would go your route, use JB Weld marine putty or something similar would be my guess.

 

[Jimrahbe]

K,

I have had some luck with this...

Take the top off the valve..
Take a screw and coat it with Vaseline.
Fill the screw hole with epoxy.
Screw the screw in the hole.
Wait until the epoxy is almost set and back out the screw.
Wait until the epoxy full cures and put the top back on.

You do have to make sure not to let the epoxy set above the top of the screw hole..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[kisonay]

Thanks Dave and Jim. I thought about a screw size up but thought it would be difficult finding the size/length needed. Jim, your idea about the Vaseline sounds like a good one. I think i am going to go this route. I'll report back with how I made out.

 

[Dave_NJ]

Thanks Dave and Jim. I thought about a screw size up but thought it would be difficult finding the size/length needed. Jim, your idea about the Vaseline sounds like a good one. I think i am going to go this route. I'll report back with how I made out.

McMaster Carr is your friend! I would go the epoxy route Jim outlined before going a screw size up though.

 

[JamesW]

Two tips on preventing stripped screws.

1) When installing the screws, turn the screw counterclockwise until it drops into the original threads and then go clockwise to tighten. Crossthreading will ruin the threads quickly.

2) When installing an actuator, use the same manufacturer as the valve. The screw threads are different for different manufacturers and the screws will not go into the same threads. The original plastic threads will be damaged unless the threads match exactly.

 

[kisonay]

Two tips on preventing stripped screws.

1) When installing the screws, turn the screw counterclockwise until it drops into the original threads and then go clockwise to tighten. Crossthreading will ruin the threads quickly.

2) When installing an actuator, use the same manufacturer as the valve. The screw threads are different for different manufacturers and the screws will not go into the same threads. The original plastic threads will be damaged unless the threads match exactly.

Two great tips. The weird thing is I had the pool install over 3 years ago and haven't touched any of this. While investigating a suction-side leak which started last week I came across the two stripped screws (attaching the actuator to the valve.) It just so happens that these stripped screws are at the same value that is leaking, so I hope that is the cause. Just strange to only start being an issue now.

 

[JamesW]

What are the manufacturers of the actuator and the valve?

Do the screw threads that hold down the actuator match the screw threads for the rest of the lid?

When reinstalling self tapping screws in plastic, people don't always make sure to use the same threads and they cross-thread and damage the receiving threads.

If the screw threads are different, it's going to damage the receiving threads every time.

 

[kisonay]

What are the manufacturers of the actuator and the valve?

Do the screw threads that hold down the actuator match the screw threads for the rest of the lid?

When reinstalling self tapping screws in plastic, people don't always make sure to use the same threads and they cross-thread and damage the receiving threads.

If the screw threads are different, it's going to damage the receiving threads every time.

Both Jandy actuator and valve. I've swapped the screws and the ones used in the stripped holes work fine in the non-stripped ones but will keep in what you said about cross-threading.

 

[kisonay]

I ended up filling both holes completely with the putty and letting dry, drilling a pilot hole and then creating new threads with the screw. Turns out that wasn't my air leak. The valve itself (where the handle attaches) is leaking the air. Time to replace some o-rings.

 

[Rossterman]

I was going to say you can get a complete Internals kit With the orings and diverter for $20 Each

 

[kisonay]

New o-rings did the trick. Thank you all for your input/help.

 

[darkstaff]

I ended up filling both holes completely with the putty and letting dry, drilling a pilot hole and then creating new threads with the screw. Turns out that wasn't my air leak. The valve itself (where the handle attaches) is leaking the air. Time to replace some o-rings.

I have a similar problem with a older jandy value that 2 of the screws are stripped out... and now that I've moved to a 3HP pool pump, it's leaking water... so about to do the same trick with filling the damaged screw holes with putty, then either immediately "threading" them in wrapped in teflon tape, or drilling a pilot hole. Which type of putty did you use? ...

thanks!
Darkstaff