Strange Salt Cell Issue

[JamesW]

Check you procedure to make sure that everything was done correctly.

What volume of water did you use?

What do you think the FC and CC are?

 

[diesel1218]

14 drops or 14 ppm?

it was 30 drop to go clear using the R-0871. Says subtract 1 so 29 x 0.5 = 14.5

I also just tried the block test for Cl and pH and they both seem really high. The CL is a darker orange not yellow and the PH seems darker than 8.2.

 

[JamesW]

it was 30 drop to go clear using the R-0871. Says subtract 1 so 29 x 0.5 = 14.5

That is probably accurate.

also just tried the block test for Cl and pH and they both seem really high.

High FC over 10 ppm will interfere with the pH reading.

The CL is a darker orange not yellow and the PH seems darker than 8.2.

Confirms high FC and pH interference.

 

[Newdude]

Says to count the drops of R-0871 until the water turns clear, then subtract one

Clear is the end point and you don't subtract a drop.

For the other tests that remain colored, you go until there is no further change, which is technically and extra drop, so the extra one gets subtracted.

it was 30 drop to go clear using the R-0871

10ml (30/2 = 15) or 25.ml (30/5= 6)

I also just tried the block test for Cl and pH and they both seem really high

The CL test on the block is a 'do I have chlorine' test. Orange is over 10 so the answer is yes. It also points to you using the 10ml test with 15 FC.

10+ FC messes up the PH test. You can try using 4 or 3 drops of the phenol red and if it registers back on the scale, it's good. The shade is the important part, not the number of drops and higher FC goes purple-y instead if pink-ish. If less drops doesn't work, then wait out the FC dropping below 10 to check the PH

 

[diesel1218]

That is probably accurate.

High FC over 10 ppm will interfere with the pH reading.

Confirms high FC and pH interference.

yeah here is the block picture. Are there steps on what I need to do about these two being too high?

 

[Newdude]

Are there steps on what I need to do about these two being too high?

Wait it out. It will take some time, maybe even a week, for the FC to fall. The days are still very short.

Wait for overhead sun for the CYA test. That will determine where the FC needs to be.

 

[diesel1218]

Wait it out. It will take some time, maybe even a week, for the FC to fall. The days are still very short.

Wait for overhead sun for the CYA test. That will determine where the FC needs to be.

SO do not do any further test until I get the FC down? These are the first two I tried.

 

[Newdude]

SO do not do any further test until I get the FC down? These are the first two I tried.

Test them all. You need full sun for CYA, FC below 10 for PH (unless less drops works) and the rest are unaffected.

 

[ajw22]

SO do not do any further test until I get the FC down? These are the first two I tried.

Only the pH test is affected by high chlorine.

You can run the CH, TA, and CYA tests and see what you get.

 

[Newdude]

Also, because you're new....

CH, TA, CYA and salt aren't going to change much. Test those weekly until you prove they are solid. Then go to biweekly, then monthly.

FC and PH get tested everyday (once the current high is fixed).

 

[diesel1218]

Also, because you're new....

CH, TA, CYA and salt aren't going to change much. Test those weekly until you prove they are solid. Then go to biweekly, then monthly.

FC and PH get tested everyday (once the current high is fixed).

Awesome okay so I will try the other test now. I should be daily doing the 10ml test for FC daily using R-0871 or the block test? I guess Ph seems to only be in the block test. I just know I got the extra SLAM so I have more R-0871 than I do of the Taylor

 

[ajw22]

I should be daily doing the 10ml test for FC daily using R-0871 or the block test? lor

Always check the FC using the drop test.

The block chlorine test is basically binary - if clear you have little to no chlorine, if yellow you have chlorine, if golden you have lots of chlorine. Don't try and associate FC numbers with the colors.

 

[Newdude]

I should be daily doing the 10ml test for FC daily using R-0871 or the block test?

Daily 10ml / 0871 test.

Once you become one with the pool, the block FC test can be used to spot check here and there. If it's good and taxicab yellow and you're expecting a high single digit FC, you're good for that day.

So long as the other tests are good, or once we fix them if not, then the other tests can be weekly+

I guess Ph seems to only be in the block test

Yes. The PH side of the comparator block is good. I literally had mine on the miter saw stand about to whack the FC side when I realized it would be harder to hold without it. .

I just know I got the extra SLAM so I have more R-0871 than I do of the Taylor

Awesome. You'll be testing FC alot more at first. It's a great add for newbs and folks with swamps.

 

[diesel1218]

So TA I believe is 90 and CH 400 could be a drop off as a first timer but think that's right. I dont have sun right now to do the CYA but also had a question on those instructions since I am using the Pro Kit I am filling the mixer bottle to 7.5ml of pool water and then up to 15ml with the reagent?

 

[ajw22]

I am filling the mixer bottle to 7.5ml of pool water and then up to 15ml with the reagent?

Yes, basically a 1:1 mix of test water and reagent.

 

[diesel1218]

Yes. The PH side of the comparator block is good. I literally had mine on the miter saw stand about to whack the FC side when I realized it would be harder to hold without it. .

 

[diesel1218]

Also I tested the Salt which is the reason I found this site. 3000-3200ppm. I say 16 drops to be safe the first red color change was 15. So I know I have salt. I did get Hayward to order me a new salt cell. Seems like they are sending me one 940 models which is the first one I had I believe with out the clear window.

 

[diesel1218]

So my CYA test is around 40ish. Says about 5lbs of stabilizer. I assume I should wait on this until my FC levels return to normal?

Also curious as to what the white flake like subtance is I see near a return could that be calcium?

 

[Newdude]

So my CYA test is around 40ish. Says about 5lbs of stabilizer. I assume I should wait on this until my FC levels return to normal?

You can add CYA at any time. But you probably don't need it right now until the new season starts ramping up.

Also, anytime you raise CYA substantially (more than 10), Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first, like now, with going from 40 to 70. The SLAM slam target will increase from 16 to 28, and you'd hate to find out that you need to slam in a couple weeks. So prove that the water is algae free before you ever spike the CYA.

But again, for the next month or two is probably fine at 40. You'll know when the daily loss increases considerably that its time.

Also curious as to what the white flake like subtance is I see near a return could that be calcium?

Grab some and add a couple drops of muriatic acid to it. (Somewhere that the acid won't ruin the work area). If it fizzes its calcium and the fix will be to lower the TA.

 

[diesel1218]

You can add CYA at any time. But you probably don't need it right now until the new season starts ramping up.

Also, anytime you raise CYA substantially (more than 10), Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first, like now, with going from 40 to 70. The SLAM slam target will increase from 16 to 28, and you'd hate to find out that you need to slam in a couple weeks. So prove that the water is algae free before you ever spike the CYA.

But again, for the next month or two is probably fine at 40. You'll know when the daily loss increases considerably that its time.

Grab some and add a couple drops of muriatic acid to it. (Somewhere that the acid won't ruin the work area). If it fizzes its calcium and the fix will be to lower the TA.

Noted and thank you so basically I am at a standstill until I can get this FC down to under 10, being at a 15 now still? Keep testing the Chlorine daily though?