Steps to Closing Pool/Help Me Verify

[Mendy48]

There's a statement from one of our members that I find very useful (Catanzaro).

As you can see from the image attached, this is my pool equipment set up.

I will be closing my pool for the first time this year. I have to. No choice. Here are the steps I've created to close my pool. I know...I know... it's a lot to read, but I'm just trying to make sure I hit all the spots here. My pool equipment is very unique and I can't seem to find anyone else that has similar set ups. Questions I have are in bold letters. Please help me.

Steps to Closing Pool:

• Pool should be below 60 degrees.
• SLAM pool 4 days before closing and do an overnight test. Link here:
• Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
• If OCLT passes, then let FC drift half way down normal range depending on your CYA. For instance, if your CYA is 30 (4-6 normal target), then let your FC drift down to 8. Again, you SLAM your pool at 12. Normal is 4. What is halfway between 12 and 4? Ans = 8.
• Once OCLT passes, skim, brush, vacuum and clean filter.
• Let pool mix for 30min after cleaning it.
• Test Pool (FC, CC, CYA, TA, CH, pH). Note: pH should between 7.4-7.6 before closing and other testings should be within range (make sure your FC has drifted down half way your normal level (additional FC and pH testing may be necessary).
• Once everything is clean and pool chemicals are within range, add Polyquat to the pool water and let your pool mix for 2 hours. You’ll only be adding this one time before closing. The amount you add is dependent on your pool. For instance, add 1 quart (32oz) to a 20,000 gallon pool, and so forth. Note: you want to add PQ no later than 5pm (I would start earlier if you can).
• In the mean time, lay out backwash hose. After 2 hours of mixing, it is time to drain your pool.
• IT’S TIME TO DRAIN YOUR POOL
• After 2 hours of adding PQ, turn off pump and set the multivalve to “backwash”
• Remember to set valve to “main drain”.
• Turn on pump and watch site glass until it’s clear (approx. 2min or until clear).
• Turn off pump and set multivalve to rinse (approx. 2min or until water at end of hose is clear)
• Turn off pump and set multivalve to waste to drain the pool.
• Turn on pump and drain the pool right below the return jets (4”). Again, make sure lever for skimmer/drain is set on main drain only. That way the water is drained from the main drain and not the skimmer.
• After draining below return jets, turn off pump and place multivalve on recirculate (this will bypass the sand filter while blowing out your pipelines.

REMOVE PLUGS

• Take plugs out from the sand filter, pump filter, heater, chlorinator and also remove site glass, pressure gauge and hose fittings from the multivalve section.

AIR COMPRESSOR....

• Plug air compressor to the pressure gauge site. Note: there is a 1/4 pressure gauge opening.

• Verify that your lever is set on main drain

• Turn on air compressor. This will blow air into the main drain pipeline until the water bubbles are at the surface of the pool. Blow air (using an air compressor) for at least 1 minute (depending on how powerful the blower is) and the quickly close the main drain valve. You might hear the "air lock" when you do this. Q. when I close the main drain, should I leave the air compressor on while I close the main drain? That way, water does not go into the pipeline of the main drain?
• While the air compressor is still on, set lever to skimmer and blow out pipelines for the skimmer (again, you’ll see a mist of water to indicate that you’ve blown out the skimmer pipelines). Remove excess water from the skimmer with cup if neccessary. Note: as the compressor is blowing all the water out of the skimmer, it should also be blowing air into the return jet pipe lines as well? [not sure, but I think so 'cause that's how the pool store has been doing it for 4 years]
• Once water is out of skimmer and return jet (misty or air coming out of both), start plugging the return jets (all three of them).
• Turn off air compressor.
• Install Gizmo in the skimmer.
• Move multivalve to “winter”
• Remove stoppers from timer
• Turn off pool breaker

ADDING ANTI-FREEZE (WHERE AND HOW)???

 

[Newdude]

If you blow with everything open, the air will find its path of least resistance. So when you’re trying to blow out the main drain, most of it will go out the returns. So I’d plug those first temporarily. Blow out the main drain and lock the valve under pressure. With the air still running it will then blow out the skimmers. Have the Mr gizzmo those and run over to uncap the returns, which will then clear. Kill the compressor. Make up a funnel taped to a garden hose and shove it down the return pipes a ways. Add 1/3 gallon to each. (It will all rejoin at the low spot T anyway but it can’t hurt to hit them all). Re-install the return plugs once clear. Go back to the gizzmos, remove and dump 1/2 gallon down each pipe. Again it will join up and again it can’t hurt to hit both. If anything it will force the little water left in the bends down to the low spot. Reinstall gizzmos and have a beverage cuz you’re blown out.

We have been back on the Polyquat debate lately and there are no wrong answers and it’s up to you. The FC will eat the Polyquat and leave you with less of both. But the two halves of whatever is left may be beneficial and cancel out the losses. It’s complicated at best and possibly counter productive. I just left it at Slam level and skipped the PQ.

 

[Mike1162]

I'll add one more question. What's a reasonable PSI for the air compressor? I turn my regulator down below 10 psi.

 

[Newdude]

What's a reasonable PSI for the air compressor? I turn my regulator down below 10 psi.

Yes, you want it as low as possible (5-7?) to boost the CFM. Many only go down to 40 psi with the knob turned all the way town to (-). If you can get yours down to under/at 10 that’s preferred.

 

[Pauls234]

• SLAM pool 4 days before closing and do an overnight test. Link here:
• Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
• If OCLT passes, then let FC drift half way down normal range depending on your CYA. For instance, if your CYA is 30 (4-6 normal target), then let your FC drift down to 8. Again, you SLAM your pool at 12. Normal is 4. What is halfway between 12 and 4? Ans = 8.
• Once OCLT passes, skim, brush, vacuum and clean filter.
• Let pool mix for 30min after cleaning it.
• Test Pool (FC, CC, CYA, TA, CH, pH). Note: pH should between 7.4-7.6 before closing and other testings should be within range (make sure your FC has drifted down half way your normal level (additional FC and pH testing may be necessary).

I have an above ground so no real help to offer as it relates to the physical aspects of blowing out lines, etc. but much of what I've quoted above is unnecessary.

For closing, just brush, vacuum, skim, raise to SLAM, let it circulate until well mixed (30 min should be fine but I always allow for longer) and you are done with the chemicals. Letting the FC drift down is actually counterproductive and could take awhile in this cold weather and/or if you've already got the cover on. Let it drift down while closed. My CYA is 40 so I SLAM to 16 at close. Last few years I have opened in late spring still with a FC of ~4.

 

[Newdude]

. Letting the FC drift down is actually counterproductive and could take awhile in this cold weather

If you are adding PQ you don’t want the FC as high as it will eat more PQ and be counter productive. So for those folks the drift down is a good thing. With no PQ you want full Slam and immediately cover.

 

[Mendy48]

If you blow with everything open, the air will find its path of least resistance. So when you’re trying to blow out the main drain, most of it will go out the returns. So I’d plug those first temporarily. Blow out the main drain and lock the valve under pressure. With the air still running it will then blow out the skimmers. Have the Mr gizzmo those and run over to uncap the returns, which will then clear. Kill the compressor. Make up a funnel taped to a garden hose and shove it down the return pipes a ways. Add 1/3 gallon to each. (It will all rejoin at the low spot T anyway but it can’t hurt to hit them all). Re-install the return plugs once clear. Go back to the gizzmos, remove and dump 1/2 gallon down each pipe. Again it will join up and again it can’t hurt to hit both. If anything it will force the little water left in the bends down to the low spot. Reinstall gizzmos and have a beverage cuz you’re blown out.

Ok! This is how I understand this..
Plug the return valves temporarily

This is how my pool equipment is built….
Turn my lever to MD to open up the main drain, and fire up the compressor (wait till you see bubbles at the base of your pool where the MDs are)
While the compressor is still on, close the MD by switching the lever to the Skimmer (this turns on the skimmer and closes the MD). Air will blow out the skimmer. Wait till you see mist.
Run over and unplug your return valves (while the compressor is still on) to let air blow into the return valves as well.

I need to find a video how to do the antifreeze. I don’t think I’m understand.

 

[Newdude]

This is how my pool equipment is built….
Turn my lever to MD to open up the main drain, and fire up the compressor (wait till you see bubbles at the base of your pool where the MDs are)
While the compressor is still on, close the MD by switching the lever to the Skimmer (this turns on the skimmer and closes the MD). Air will blow out the skimmer. Wait till you see mist.
Run over and unplug your return valves (while the compressor is still on) to let air blow into the return valves as well.

You got the steps I created on the fly down PERFECT. But. Right here you'll need to add the gizmos or air will be going both directions again. Ideally you add the gizmos and the MR uncaps the returns at the same time. With the gizmos in, all air forced out returns. Kill compressor and Leave unplugged until antifreeze is added. Then plug

I need to find a video how to do the antifreeze. I don’t think I’m understand

Shove a funnel into a 6 ft piece of garden hose and tape the connection. Doesn't need alot, as there is no pressure to rip it open. Then shove as much of the garden hose as you can in the returns. You'll need to twist amd turn it to get past the first 90 bend. Bending the tip of the hose helps too. Then just add antifreeze to the funnel and most will go down the return pipe. If some spits out of the return its no biggie.

Then plug the returns, go open the gizmos and dump antifreeze directly down the skimmer pipes.

When you pull all the equipment plugs, toss them in the pump basket. I use a zip lock bag just so one doesn't go flying when the stubborn pump lid puts up a fight in the spring,

 

[Pauls234]

If you are adding PQ you don’t want the FC as high as it will eat more PQ and be counter productive. So for those folks the drift down is a good thing. With no PQ you want full Slam and immediately cover.

I was not aware of that, thank you. Though I suppose the other side of the coin is that adding the PQ is the counter productive part? I've never used PQ so seems simplest to me to just raise to SLAM, but I've apparently missed those discussions so will head on over to the Deep End!

 

[Mendy48]

You got the steps I created on the fly down PERFECT. But. Right here you'll need to add the gizmos or air will be going both directions again. Ideally you add the gizmos and the MR uncaps the returns at the same time. With the gizmos in, all air forced out returns. Kill compressor and Leave unplugged until antifreeze is added. Then plug

Ohhh! OK
So when I’m done blowing out the skimmer pipelines, open up the return jets and run over to put a gizmo in the skimmer…that way all the air is forced out of the return jets?

Shove a funnel into a 6 ft piece of garden hose and tape the connection. Doesn't need alot, as there is no pressure to rip it open. Then shove as much of the garden hose as you can in the returns. You'll need to twist amd turn it to get past the first 90 bend. Bending the tip of the hose helps too. Then just add antifreeze to the funnel and most will go down the return pipe. If some spits out of the return its no biggie.

Ohhhh… ok…Do I do this with every return jet? And when will I know that I’ve reached the end of the pipeline for the return jet. Or just get a 6ft hose and call it a day?

When you pull all the equipment plugs, toss them in the pump basket. I use a zip lock bag just so one doesn't go flying when the stubborn pump lid puts up a fight in the spring,

Great advise here…

 

[Newdude]

Ohhh! OK
So when I’m done blowing out the skimmer pipelines, open up the return jets and run over to put a gizmo in the skimmer…that way all the air is forced out of the return jets?

Yes. When blowing from the middle with a non commercial compressor, One end needs to be plugged to create flow out the other.

Ohhhh… ok…Do I do this with every return jet? And when will I know that I’ve reached the end of the pipeline for the return jet. Or just get a 6ft hose and call it a day?

I would do all 3 as it only takes a minute. You don’t have to go far down the pipe but if you get it past the first turn, less antifreeze will pour back out.

 

[Newdude]

Though I suppose the other side of the coin is that adding the PQ is the counter productive part?

It’s complicated at best. Lol. Is it better to have some FC and some PQ, or all FC, or all PQ ? Ask 10 folks and you’ll get 10 answers. I honestly believe they are all correct.

 

[Mendy48]

I would do all 3 as it only takes a minute. You don’t have to go far down the pipe but if you get it past the first turn, less antifreeze will pour back out.

What about the main drain pipeline? Does that need antifreeze?

 

[Newdude]

What about the main drain pipeline? Does that need antifreeze?

No. It would just seep out into the pool.

 

[Mendy48]

You got the steps I created on the fly down PERFECT. But. Right here you'll need to add the gizmos or air will be going both directions again. Ideally you add the gizmos and the MR uncaps the returns at the same time. With the gizmos in, all air forced out returns. Kill compressor and Leave unplugged until antifreeze is added. Then plug

Shove a funnel into a 6 ft piece of garden hose and tape the connection. Doesn't need alot, as there is no pressure to rip it open. Then shove as much of the garden hose as you can in the returns. You'll need to twist amd turn it to get past the first 90 bend. Bending the tip of the hose helps too. Then just add antifreeze to the funnel and most will go down the return pipe. If some spits out of the return its no biggie.

How much antifreeze do I pour in for each return jet?

 

[Newdude]

How much antifreeze do I pour in for each return jet?

I always did a gallon per pipe. My returns were plumbed together with a T and so were the skimmers. So each location got a half gallon and it all met up at the bottom.