Stenner Pump w/tank

[Andy49]

Initially, I was leaning toward installation of a SWCG. It turns out I just don't have enough clearance between the heater and return line. Major manifold changes are required according to a pool store. Now I am leaning towards a 220 volt Stenner system with 15 gal tank. I will install it myself. A couple of questions.
1. I am not clear as to how the injection point connects to the return line. I have a schematic from Stenner but it's not clear. I have attached it to the post. I would appreciate an exploded view of the injection point to see exactly what fittings are required to connect the Stenner system to a 2" pvc return.
2. We are also planning re-plaster and replacing tiles. Is there a reason to wait to install Stenner before the renovation?

 

[JohnFoe]

it has a 1/4" inch thread and a 1/2 inch thread to screw in so either a quarter inch or half inch threaded input would work.

They make special "T"s with threads. Something similar to this below. I don't use one myself so hopefully someone else can get you a link since I don't think this one below is exactly right.

https://pvcpipesupplies.com/2-x-1-2-tee-sxt-402-247.html


Personally I say install the stenner as soon as possible since you will love it.

 

[Dirk]

I have a different brand, but they might be similar injectors. This is how I did mine. It's just a 2" x 1/2" x 2" PVC T, available at any hardware store (or 1.5" or 2.5" depending on your existing plumbing):



I took the injector to the hardware store to make sure it would fit. I used some teflon tape on the threads before screwing it into the T.

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Oops, JohnFoe beat me. I type too slow. His link is the part I was describing.

No need to wait to start using your Stenner. But... depending on your new plaster startup process, you might wait a bit before adding chlorine (give the plaster some time to cure before subjecting it to chlorine), so you might have to shut down the Stenner system for a few days when the new plaster is, well, new.

 

[Andy49]

Thanks for clarifying the connection. So, it looks like some plumbing is still required. I was hoping that I could just drill a hole in the return line and glue in or clamp in some kind of fitting.

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Sounds good as for the installation timing. The best price I see for the pump/tank combo is around $530. Does that sound reasonable?

 

[Pollock]

Thanks for clarifying the connection. So, it looks like some plumbing is still required. I was hoping that I could just drill a hole in the return line and glue in or clamp in some kind of fitting.

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Sounds good as for the installation timing. The best price I see for the pump/tank combo is around $530. Does that sound reasonable?

You can drill and tap an elbow if you are okay with doing it. There is a thread somewhere in here that showed an injection point that is indeed clamped on.

If you have a tablet chlorinator they might have a 1/2 capped off thread you can use like mind did. Just make sure you know for a fact tablets wont be in there at the same time you are injecting liquid. I saw a youtube video where they put liquid chlorine and a tablet in a bucket and it exploded.

Edit: You also do not need that fancy PVC T. You can get a normal 2" T and put an adapter with what ever threaded hole you want into it. You can buy that local and not pay shipping.

 

[skimmerswimmer]

This might be a cheaper place to buy the pump and tank:

Stenner 15 Gallon Tank System With 100 PSI Fixed Pump 1/4 Inch Tube

 

[Dirk]

Thanks for clarifying the connection. So, it looks like some plumbing is still required. I was hoping that I could just drill a hole in the return line and glue in or clamp in some kind of fitting.

Oh, you can absolutely do it that way: drill a hole and clamp on a saddle fitting. My pump came with them (for 2" and 1.5"), so I know they exist, just not sure where to get them otherwise. No glueing or cutting of pipes necessary, at all. They rely on an o-ring to make the seal. O-rings bug me, but for no real reason. I just avoid them when it's easy to, and I had to take my section of pipe apart, to get rid of that check valve, so I was glueing and cutting pipe anyway...

Someone here will know where to find them, or try Swimming Pool Supplies - Pool Parts - INYOPools.com or the google machine.

 

[Andy49]

Thanks to everyone for excellent suggestions and help. I am surprised and happy the the much lower pricing. I will post a pic or two after the installation

 

[MSPT3K]

Your original post says you don't have room for a saltwater cell. If you haven't considered it, you can put a U with the cell vertical. See photo where I removed the original puck chlorinator.

 

[RonsPlc]

I picked up the plumbing at Lowes... Perfect fit!

 

[Dirk]

Uh, be careful there. In RonsPlc's image, the "Y" fitting he used looks a lot like a DWV fitting, which is intended for low-pressure applications, like drains and waste. It is not appropriate for pool plumbing and its higher pressure. Unfortunately, this is a common glitch, 'cause they're right there at Lowes and they're white and they're PVC...

You should only use Schedule 40 fittings.

Oops... Ron, that elbow up top might be DWV, too. Look how it compares to the 90 on the other side. Not as thick, doesn't accept the pipe as deep, so less glue surface, etc. Sorry bud, hope I have that wrong...

 

[RonsPlc]

Uh, be careful there. In RonsPlc's image, the "Y" fitting he used looks a lot like a DWV fitting, which is intended for low-pressure applications, like drains and waste. It is not appropriate for pool plumbing and its higher pressure. Unfortunately, this is a common glitch, 'cause they're right there at Lowes and they're white and they're PVC...

You should only use Schedule 40 fittings.

Oops... Ron, that elbow up top might be DWV, too. Look how it compares to the 90 on the other side. Not as thick, doesn't accept the pipe as deep, so less glue surface, etc. Sorry bud, hope I have that wrong...

You DO in fact have it wrong... everything I use for the pool is schedule 40.

 

[Dirk]

You DO in fact have it wrong... everything I use for the pool is schedule 40.

Good deal. My bad. Can you share a link to that part?

 

[trivetman]

If u cant find it local try Supplyhouse.com. They have about every pvc fitting u can think of

 

[Demegrad9]

Those PVC fittings are definitely the DWV type and at home depot and lowes they are also labeled schedule 40, they just have less engagement area for bonding. They are not intended for pressure applications but as Ron is showing, they can and do still work, especially if they are well aligned such that there is no force in the joint

 

[Dirk]

Those PVC fittings are definitely the DWV type and at home depot and lowes they are also labeled schedule 40, they just have less engagement area for bonding. They are not intended for pressure applications but as Ron is showing, they can and do still work, especially if they are well aligned such that there is no force in the joint

Well, for Ron's sake I was hoping otherwise. I think he used this part:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-2-in-dia-PVC-Schedule-40-Wye-Fitting/3132799

Which carries this description:

• Conforms to meet Standards: ASTM D 1784, ASTM D 2665, ASTM D 3311 and NSF 14
• Used to branch a drain line at a 45 degree angle
• White Fittings used in sanitary drain, waste, and vent (DWV), sewer and storm drainage applications
• Not intended for pressure use
• Maximum working temperature of 140°F
• Made in the USA

I'm sure Ron's setup will be fine, but still stand by my original post about it, in terms of what the OP should and shouldn't use for his project:

Use only Schedule 40. Don't use DWV fittings, like those from Lowes.