Stenner Install Chlorine Injection

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flyboyusa

0
Oct 16, 2015
38
ELKHART, IN
After a month of reading advice from others and realizing my hockey pucks are eventually going to get me in trouble, I've decided to install a Stenner pump to dose LC.
With the pump in my shopping cart online, I decided to run a quick search on Craigslist. I figured what the heck, theres no chance someone would actually be selling a niche item such as this, around my area, and with the correct pressure and output ratings that I wanted, right? Well wouldn't you know, up pops an ad for a Stenner 45MHP2 pump for $100, only a year old, only used a couple times, with all the fittings, the correct voltage, manual and only 5 miles from our house! Needless to say, I flew to the sellers house and snatched it up.
So anyways, I had to share my awesome find. Here's a couple pics. I'll post more pics of the install as I get it done.
Thanks to all the contributors here on TFP for all the priceless advice!
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Well I got the pump hooked up today and was able to run a bit of LC through it with not a single leak. At this point I'm just running power through an extension cord until I'm convinced everything is working as it should. I was able to find a 20 gal plastic keg at work, which was going in the dumpster, so I snatched it up.
The dosing stinger had the right thread to thread into the drain plug on my Intelliflo VS. I'm not sure if I'm liking the LC going straight into the pump, as this puts high concentration water through my heater and filter, although I'm not sure if it's all that big of a deal? Anyone have thoughts on where the optimum injection location is, before or after filter and heater?
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Picture of pump with injection stinger straight into the drain plug.
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rphpool said:
I assume you have the screw on lid cover for your barrel and it was just off for the pic. I really like your setup up in the garage/ equipment shed, very nice, and will keep bleach cool!
Click to expand...

Nope no screw on lid, it's a closed head barrel, so the lid and sides are all one piece. It might just be the lighting that makes it look like it doesn't have a lid, but it does. Thanks for the like, I think it's gonna be nice and cool. I relocated the injection quill, I'll post pics later today


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flyboyusa said:
Nope no screw on lid, it's a closed head barrel, so the lid and sides are all one piece. It might just be the lighting that makes it look like it doesn't have a lid, but it does. Thanks for the like, I think it's gonna be nice and cool. I relocated the injection quill, I'll post pics later today


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Click to expand...

I am sorry I was not very clear in my question. What I meant is were you pour the the bleach into the barrel. Just wanted to make sure it has a cap so fumes would not eat up any metal in your shed. You are probably correct and I just can not see it in pic. Is this a dedicated pool shed or part of your garage?
 
rphpool said:
I am sorry I was not very clear in my question. What I meant is were you pour the the bleach into the barrel. Just wanted to make sure it has a cap so fumes would not eat up any metal in your shed. You are probably correct and I just can not see it in pic. Is this a dedicated pool shed or part of your garage?
Click to expand...

Ahh I understand now. Yes, it had a plastic bung that screws into the bung hole, I just didn't have it installed when I snapped the picture. You're correct, the chlorine fumes are very corrosive indeed. We stored our brand new stainless ladder and step railing in the shed last winter, and had some rust corrosion on them in the spring. This was likely caused by storing chlorine tabs in a bucket near them in the shed. This is in our dedicated pool shed, I've got pictures of the shed and final install that I'll be posting soon. Thanks for the feedback!


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So, I was able to get this project finished up. I ended up moving the injection quill from the Intelliflo VS drain to a T in my 2" PVC pipe that's downstream from my filter & heater. Others have suggested this as a better location, as the water will contain a much higher chlorine concentration, which might tend to corrode the heater. Unfortunately the hardware story only carried 2x2x2 inch T's, and not a 2x2x1 reducing T, so I ended up having to buy a reducing bushing. This makes the quill stick out a bit further and doesn't place the injection point in the middle of the stream of water flowing inside the pipe. After looking at it closely and measuring, the tip of the quill is only approx. 3/4" out of the center of the stream, so I don't think it will matter too much. The flow of water past it is fast enough and the dose rate is slow slow, that I believe the LC will be swept away almost instantly.
Also, I wired the 110V receptacle into my Intellitouch automation system. I wired the 110V hot leg first through the #1 Pump Relay and then this hot goes through a spare relay #3 and then to the Stenner. This will provide an interlock to assure that the Stenner only runs when the pump is running, but then also gives me the ability to run the pump w/o running the Stenner (ie. I can program independent schedules for Intelliflo VS only -or- Intelliflo VS + Stenner together).
Overall, this was a very simple project, the Stenner pump is high quality and I didn't have a single leak or problem with it. I would def. recommend this to anyone who's wanting to install liquid chlorine. It is more complicated than the Liquidator, but I really believe it's a dependable system that's consistent and high quality that will last a long time. I plan on servicing the pump every year when I winterize - replace the feed tube, lube the gears, etc... I'll report back in a couple months on how well the FC readings stabilize and any other issues I might encounter.

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20 gal. plastic closed head keg retrieved from where I work, it was being thrown out, so I put it to good use....
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The pool shed I built from scratch...sits on a 6" deep bed of crushed limestone. I've installed a 1/4" ball valve and drain tubing through the floor into the gravel below underneath of the pool house. I can now just open the ball valves for winterization and the water will dissipate below the floor.
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Water is crystal clear now....can see to the bottom like glass...
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Another view of the pool shed and slide...
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View from the end of the pool looking back towards the house and seating areas...
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Meadow said:
Very nice, I like it :thumleft: Now I know what my next project is.
Dumb questions...should the reservoir (keg) completely sealed or must have a breather? Also, can you use the same setup to dose MA?
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yes, it should be completely sealed and air tight, to avoid corrosion and loss. However, the pumping action would then pull a vacuum on the keg and collapse the sidewalls. So, I've left a thin gap around the tube where it enters the keg, I drilled the hole very slightly over sized. I may look for a check valve to install as a vacuum breaker, whereby I could seal the tube through hole to be air tight. This would eliminate corrosion but still prevent vacuum collapse.
I don't see why one couldn't use this same setup for muriatic acid. I would think it would be best to control the pump with a feedback loop off a pH probe though.


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I am so jealous AND so glad I came across this thread because I think you just volunteered to help me with many questions given our similar setups!

I have been debating Liquidator vs Stenner for my entire pool ownership (13 months). I took control of my pool from the pool guy 2 months ago who was using pucks and spending 3 minutes cleaning baskets, etc. I have been spending 15 minutes a day measuring chemicals, adding chlorine, screwing around. I think I am convinced I have to go the Stenner route.

I have a Intellitouch and an Intelliflo VS. Like you, I want to set this bad boy up to pump when I tell it - through the relays when my pump is running and when I select that particular relay. Outside of adjusting the amount going in my pool occasionally and dumping a barrel fool of chlorine every 2-3 weeks, I don't ever want to touch it!

I have a question that maybe you may/may not be interested in doing. Would you be able to take a picture inside your control panel and pointing out the electrical components for the stenner? I'm not an electrician - but I have no issues doing it. And truth is, I don't trust a pool service guy because, let's be honest, most of them have no idea what they're doing (although I think the good ones hang out here!).

I want to reclaim my evenings! HA.
 
Last edited:
sigep739 said:
I am so jealous AND so glad I came across this thread because I think you just volunteered to help me with many questions given our similar setups!

I have been debating Liquidator vs Stenner for my entire pool ownership (13 months). I took control of my pool from the pool guy 2 months ago who was using pucks and spending 3 minutes cleaning baskets, etc. I have been spending 15 minutes a day measuring chemicals, adding chlorine, screwing around. I think I am convinced I have to go the Stenner route.

I have a Intellitouch and an Intelliflo VS. Like you, I want to set this bad boy up to pump when I tell it - through the relays when my pump is running and when I select that particular relay. Outside of adjusting the amount going in my pool occasionally and dumping a barrel fool of chlorine every 2-3 weeks, I don't ever want to touch it!

I have a question that maybe you may/may not be interested in doing. Would you be able to take a picture inside your control panel and pointing out the electrical components for the stenner? I'm not an electrician - but I have no issues doing it. And truth is, I don't trust a pool service guy because, let's be honest, most of them have no idea what they're doing (although I think the good ones hang out here!).

I want to reclaim my evenings! HA.
Click to expand...

Yep, sure can, I won't get to it until this evening, but I'll snap some shots and make up a diagram that should be useful to you! Do you know if you have a spare, unused relay in your Intellitouch load center cabinet?
 
That would be so amazing. I found a thread that it seemed to be discussing similar topic as you but not exact... Pasted below. I do indeed have a free relay which should make it possible to do what you're doing. I'll be honest, electrical is not my strong suit but I've done my own after clearly following directions! Haha.

looks like you got a 120v stenner? I am basically going to copy exactly what you have going on because I'm sure you have it grounded correctly etc

thanks so much!

Stenner Pump Wiring to EasyTouch Relays
 
Based on everything I read, it seems that cutting the cord of the Stenner voids the warranty. Not ideal.

The other issue is my EasyTouch is outside. I do have a GFCI plug on the side of the box - but again, from what I see here, by attaching that particular outlet to the timer relay load side, it seems that it would eliminate the GFCI protection when the outlet is not on.

So I guess I am a little stuck on what to do. I am totally cool with just plugging in my stenner to the GFCI outlet, but then I lose all the fun of being able to control it with my easy touch!

I know this is discussed in here and maybe I can't find it, but if I could wire a new plug INSIDE the easy touch, my issue might be solved.
 
sigep739 said:
Based on everything I read, it seems that cutting the cord of the Stenner voids the warranty. Not ideal.

The other issue is my EasyTouch is outside. I do have a GFCI plug on the side of the box - but again, from what I see here, by attaching that particular outlet to the timer relay load side, it seems that it would eliminate the GFCI protection when the outlet is not on.

So I guess I am a little stuck on what to do. I am totally cool with just plugging in my stenner to the GFCI outlet, but then I lose all the fun of being able to control it with my easy touch!

I know this is discussed in here and maybe I can't find it, but if I could wire a new plug INSIDE the easy touch, my issue might be solved.
Click to expand...

The GFI outlet has both a line and a load connection points. This means you can feed straight 110V black hot leg from the breaker to the line connection in the back of GFI outlet. Then run black hot wire from the load connection on the back of GFI to the line side of the relay. Then black hot wire from load side of relay to an plain outlet, to which you'll plug the Stenner into. This way, all outlets that are downstream of the GFI outlet are also GFI protected. This is standard practice with GFI, they all have provisions to protect other outlets that are wired through them. Only thing to remember is the white neutral also has to run through the GFI outlet for it to work. The GFI works by constantly monitoring both the black and white wires for any differences in current between them (which would indicate current is leaking out of the circuit, presumably into someone's body to ground)
I'll take pics tonight and draw you a schematic


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