Stats on Newly Re-plastered Pool

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J

jdgraham13

Member
Mar 20, 2019
8
Texas
I've had my 20k gallon plastered pool (D.E. Filter) for about 3.5 years now. I'm a new user of this forum and am looking to step up my pool game. This year we had our pool re-plastered and re-tiled. The contractor completed their upkeep of the pool a few weeks ago. I've upgraded to the TF-100 chemical kit and ran my first tests today. My results are below.

The chlorine levels seem a bit high and I'm not exactly sure how it got there. With my first kit that I used last week the levels seemed lower but in the good range. I used tabs/pucks and added 3 about 1 week ago.

How do I look?

FC: 13 (seems very high)
CC: 0.5
pH: 7.4
CH: 375 (a little high?)
TA: 120 (too high?)
CYA: 30
CSI: 0.04 (assuming 0 borates and 0 salt)
 
Welcome to TFP JD.

Has water been in your pool for over 30 days?

What test kit did you use?

Your tests look ok. I would not adjust anything right now. Let your FC drift down to 4-6 and maintain it there. Add MA when your ph gets to 7.8 and reduce it to 7.4. Your TA should come down over time with the MA. Your CH is where it is due to your fill water. Nothing you can do about it.

Do you have an autofill? What is the pH, TA, CH of your fill water?

If you are going to hang around here for advice please put details of your pool in your signature. See What we need to know to answer your questions
 
Thank you for the feedback.

The test kit I used today was the TF-100. The water has been in the pool for almost 2 months now. I do not have an auto-fill, so right now I just fill it with my hose. These are the stats on the source water:

pH: 7.7
CH: 250
TA: 250

Signature added. Thank you again!
 
Last edited:
Fill water with a pH of 7.7 and a TA of 250 does not pass a reasonability test. With that TA you would have a pH over 8.

Please retest your pool water and fill water following the directions below. I think you have a common testing problem. Drop size matters with the TA test. Static electicity and forcing a drop out can give you small drops. From Extended Test Kit Directions

  • Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wiping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
  • Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
  • If you expect that your TA level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 1 drop of R-0007, 3 drops of R-0008, and multiply the number of drops of R-0009 by 25 to get your TA level.
 
Out h on 250 fill and 375 pool ch! Someone added a bunch of Cal hypo! Make sure to cross that off your list of forms of clorine you can use. You can use triclor tabs until cya gets in the 40 range then switch to bleach, the tabs are keeping you pH down so when on bleach keep a better eye on pH.
 
Great input! I've gone ahead and done the measurements again (TA x 2) and was sure to be much more careful and precise. Also this time I used the method with 10ml vs. 25ml of water. These results are different and probably more accurate. Thanks for the tips.

What are your thoughts on these revised numbers?

Pool FC: 7.5 (13 first time, I must not have x 0.5)
Pool CC: 0.5 (same as first time)
Pool CYA: 40 (was between 30 and 40, but slightly closer to 40)
Pool PH: 7.6 (0.1 lower than first measurement)
Source PH: 7.5 (0.2 lower than first measurement)
Pool CH: 325 (50 lower than first measurement)
Source PH: 275 (25 higher than first measurement)

Pool TA:
First Sample: 100 (Flashed red at 3 drops and stayed red at 4 drops)
Second Sample: 100 (Flashed red at 3 drops and stayed red at 4 drops)
Source TA:
First Sample: 175 (Flashed red starting at 4 drops and stayed red at 7 drops)
Second Sample: 175 (Flashed red at 5 drops and stayed red at 7 drops)
 
Always round UP on CYA.

TA sounds more reasonable.

You get into the groove of testing with practice.

Everything looks good. Focus on maintaining pH & CL in range. Calculate your CSI using PoolMath
 
CSI .11 is ok. CSI slightly negative is better. Try and lower your pH to 7.2 when it gets to 7.6 until your TA gets down between 60-70. That will keep your CSI negative and lower your TA over time.

Your CSI will rise as your water temp rises in the summer. Getting your TA down will offset that.
 
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Thank you gentlemen. I will work on lowering my PH then aerating. I have a spa, but I'm don't think the power produced by them and/or my pool returns would be sufficient to aerate. With the pool full they don't really break the surface. In looking through some threads I see that a lot of people make their own. I found one on Amazon for $28 that is essentially what people are building. Poolmaster Pool Spa Waterfall Fountain. Is that sufficient? Or is there something I'm missing where I can rig my Polaris or returns to do the same job?
 
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