Started a new pool "Passed Final Inspection, Questions on Pool Startup”

Jump to latest Follow Reply
For the spa - all jets are plumbed to the spa pump only - along with the extra pair of drains (sometimes these spa drains are in the sidewall of the spa near the floor.
Additionally, there are one or two returns that are plumbed to the main pump and the other set of floor drains. This allows filtered and heated water to enter/exit the spa.

Usually, there are two automated valves to switch between pool and spa.
In pool mode, one valve will pull water from the pool and the other return water to the pool.
In spa mode, one valve will pull water from the spa and the other return water to the spa.
In spillover mode, the suction side valve is set to pool and the return side valve is set to spa.

If you have other water features or want to automate your heater bypass valve, additional automated valves would be needed.

The spa pump doesn't have an additional valves.
 
I have recieved bid for Excavation, steel and electrical, waiting on pool tile. I have questions about pool plaster. Do you need to provide the specfic brand, color and type of finish or do you need to state ie pebble, mini pebble etc.? Do plaster contractors have products that they are certified to apply or prefer to use?
 
AZRider said:
Do you need to provide the specfic brand, color and type of finish or do you need to state ie pebble, mini pebble etc.?
Click to expand...
Yes - based on the look you are after and the type of surface.

AZRider said:
Do plaster contractors have products that they are certified to apply or prefer to use?
Click to expand...
Some are certified in various types of finishes/brands. Others not so much.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kimkats
Hello again,
I am running into issues getting pool project started. I need a CMU block planter built before pre-grade can be done. I cannot get anyone to bid the hardscapes. All the other subs are eager to start, in fact they are calling to see if I am ready. Anyone with experience in the Phoenix area having similar issues?
 
I am spinning my wheels trying to get my project started. All the subs are ready if I can get planter built. I am beginning to think that since block wall construction is labor intensive that most of the laborers that do this work are still unavailable due to the holidays. Anyone in the Phoenix area have any recommendations for block wall contractors?
 
  • Sad
Reactions: kimkats
I finally found someone to complete my retaining wall. City has approved my plans. I now need to get some feedback on SPA Spillover design. I had 2 separate spillways originally and thought about moving to one in the corner instead. The thoughts would be that would leave more room for sitting. My concerns are spillover surface materials. Originally I was going to use a solid piece of stone as to exit into pool to avoid grout erosion. With the corner design not sure that would be workable. Would tiling the spillway cause issues with grout erosion? I tried search corner spillway designs and all I can find are much wider and are tiled with 1x1" mosaic tile. That seems like a large amount of exposed grout to erode. I have time before shotcrete to decide on fianl design. Any thoughts on plus and minuses of 2 vs 1 corner spillway.1709137338995.png1709138750670.png
 
Found this post by ajw22. This should solve the issues I was worried about.
ajw22 said:
I have my spillover on the corner and it works fine.

The more spillover area you have the greater flow you will need to have a good spillover.


View attachment 394149


Ledger stone is not good for a waterfall or spa wall. The uneven surfaces will get calcium scale and be difficult to clean.
Click to expand...
 
Landscapers finished retaining wall and placed all the soil behind the new wall. I went out with my laser to layout the pool and discovered that our lot slopes left to right about 8". I included a picture for clarity. The Patio edge is 0" reference It will be 4'9" to bond beam. Existing soil level at leftside of pool is 0" same elevation as Patio. I cannot lower the grade on that side due to fence and footer. How much higher should bond beam be above grade? Am I over thinking it? I know that there must be a slope away from the house and away from the pool for drainage.

1709776041725.jpeg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
No you are not over thinking this part of the pool layout.
With the pool being at +0” on that side (right side of the drawing) you will have to make up the elevation difference (-8”) with a slope in grade or a retaining wall with two different elevations on each side.
As the absolute minimum height you can have the finish grade of the coping the same elevation as the patio and still achieve water run off going away from the pool and patio with a happy medium somewhere in between.
I like to see the TBB forms set at the same elevation as the nearest deck work so the fall of eleven (coping thickness) will be in one direction only preferably ending at the deck.
A good operator will ask the thickness of the coping before laying out the pool forms.
 
AQUA~HOLICS said:
As the absolute minimum height you can have the finish grade of the coping the same elevation as the patio and still achieve water run off going away from the pool and patio with a happy medium somewhere in between.
I like to see the TBB forms set at the same elevation as the nearest deck work so the fall of eleven (coping thickness) will be in one direction only preferably ending at the deck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for replying. I am trying to get my head around this. Elevation on left side is same as patio, if TBB forms are set to patio elevation the tops would be at ground level. Which means they will have to be set them into the ground on the left side. I have not seen forms set at grade before. The other end will not be an issue as I am planning an outdoor kitchen so a small 8” step down behind pergola will not be an issue. The plan is to cover the patio with same pavers as used on deck around the pool so the elevation change will be same. Would adding 1” to TBB forms help any or is it fine as is? I just do not want to blindside the excavators when they arrive, I want to have a plan in place. Thanks again
 
This question may be better answered by your paver installer as to what elevation he needs to provide the correct slope to the existing patio.
I can only comment in general terms without seeing the specific are in question.
Setting the TBB forms into the ground on the left side is common when a specific finish grade is needed, that’s where the paver contractors input may be needed.
Adding 1” to TBB will ensure that final grade will not end up below finished grade of existing patio.
 
AQUA~HOLICS said:
Setting the TBB forms into the ground on the left side is common when a specific finish grade is needed, that’s where the paver contractors input may be needed.
Adding 1” to TBB will ensure that final grade will not end up below finished grade of existing patio.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that answers the issue I was worrying about. The left side will just be pool coping. The area will be covered with landscape rock, the pavers will be on the other 3 sides.
 
Scheduled plumber to come in after excavation. He wants to set the pumps, filter and heater during rough plumbing install stage. Is this the normal process? I thought you would want it under pressure until after shotcrete to verify no leaks.
 
This is what I request from my plumber, and after all the equipment is set then pressurized for testing.
This will show if all the equipment (heater, filter, pumps, valves) are installed without any issues, if a manifold is built and tested then you won’t have any idea of water leaks or any other problems until the pool is full of water and their is no plumber on site.
Yes the equipment can be installed at a later time and re pressurized, you want any issues to show up as early as possible before water is in the pool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kimkats
AQUA~HOLICS said:
This is what I request from my plumber, and after all the equipment is set then pressurized for testing.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I guess I have my marching orders. lol I will need to verify all the measurements before they pull out their excavator, once I pour the slab they will not be getting back there again.
 
@AQUA~HOLICS is spot on. Tell them you want to test the rough plumbing without any equipment installed by leaving it under pressure. That proves no issues with the rough. Later when they install equipment they should also leave it under pressure. That proves no issues with equipment. It should be left that way until ready to plaster. That proves no issues with any other contractor.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AZRider

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply