I have a gunite pool that I have been battling stains with for the past couple years. The stains are like a yellowish to orange color. I have had success in the past using a product called Stop Stains, but it requires so much to treat the pool that it is nearly $100 each time.

My PH typically runs very high. It is a salt water pool. I just took readings and below are my current pool water results.

Chlorine - 4ppm
PH - 7.4 (usually is 7.8-8.0) I have to add acid weekly
Alkalinity - 70
Calcium Hardness - 370
CYA - 70

I have also had some had white spots on both the bottom and the sides, that I assume are calcium deposits. They don't come off easily. At the beginning of Spring I did a funnel with some acid over some of the spots to attempt to remove. It did remove them, but there are simply too many to do by hand.

I have been using a metal sequestrant such as Jack's Magic the Purple Stuff or Salinity Stain Control. I have also this year begun to use the Metal Culator, but even with the staining and sequestrant it comes out white each time I change it, so per the pamphlet this indicates I am dealing with Manganese or Lead. Is this what this staining is? I do fill from well water.

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I have additional photos but it will not allow me to upload more, perhaps in any replies

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How can I upload additional photos. Says I reached max capacity.
 
You seem to have a couple issues happening simultaneously - calcium staining and iron staining. Each with their own challenges. Let's start wit the iron. When you read the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page, you'll see that wells typically have iron, and once iron is in the water, it's in unless you change the water with iron-free water. If you can't do that, first & foremost you have to keep that pH low. Ideally around 7.2 which would also help your calcium issue (I'll come back to that). You'll also need to use a sequestrant consistently to keep the iron from precipitating out and staining the pool surfaces. Jacks Metal Magic products are seen as a favorable product.

As for the calcium, make sure to review the TFP Pool School - Calcium Scaling page. Unless you plan on emptying the pool for an aggressive chemical or manual scale removal treatment, a lower CSI level over time might help to reduce the existing scale and help prevent further developments. I'd definitely try to contain the iron right away as that will have the quickest impacts on your pool surfaces.

For now, check the Magic Jack's website for a good sequestrant and be prepared to use it consistently. Lower the pH and keep it at about 7.2-7.4 as best as possible. As for the images, you will reach a limit quickly unless you opt to become a TFP supporter or link your images to a 3rd party photo hosting site. Some of those can be a pain and change their rules, so becoming a member usually provides the best benefits, but that's really up to you. Hope this helps a bit. Let us know if you still have questions.

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I almost forgot to remind you of the TFP AA treatment page which users find helpful to remove iron staining.
 
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