Sta-Rite SR333NA Max-E-Therm Spa Heater woes

milguy11

Member
Feb 18, 2017
14
Rockledge, FL
I have read all the prior threads, but my problem is a little different. heater installed around 2007.

Sympton: Heater fires, makes heat for about 5 seconds, then turns off. Blower runs as it should. No abnormal noises noted. NO CONTROL BOARD SENSOR LEDs LIT, except LED 11 - which after a google search, is the SERVICE HEATER light. This LED is >NOT< in the service manual...

Initial conditions: Cleaned out a MESS inside the unit.... did thorough inspection of all wiring - no damage noted.

Changed the AFS, the high limit switch and the thermistor (mainfold sensors) - no change, same symptoms.

Checked the thermal regulator - was completely corroded and replaced as well. Note - i didn't have any control board errors indicating these were bad - just more preventive than anything else (they were all NASTY when removed)

FENWAL indicates IGNITOR LOCKOUT (3 flashes)

I checked the resistance of the flue sensor and it read INFINITY - even on high range.

Disconnected the flue sensor and fired the unit.

UNIT RUNS.

I should receive a new flue sensor today.... will update.
 

milguy11

Member
Feb 18, 2017
14
Rockledge, FL
ok another strange one.... just replaced our Gen 1 remote with a new one.... and it's not controlling the heater on/off.... ideas? (all other remote functions work fine)
 

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Jul 8, 2015
2,426
OV, CA
I'm still back on the flu sensor... that was what I was going to suggest you replace next. I bet if you check the old one with a ohmeter, you find it shorted or dead.

The remote? I don't use one on mine. But any chance did you giggle loose a wire will troubleshooting the rest of the unit?
 

milguy11

Member
Feb 18, 2017
14
Rockledge, FL
I'm still back on the flu sensor... that was what I was going to suggest you replace next. I bet if you check the old one with a ohmeter, you find it shorted or dead.

The remote? I don't use one on mine. But any chance did you giggle loose a wire will troubleshooting the rest of the unit?
i don't see any loose wires.

what has me stumped is HOW my AquaLogic is controlling this heater. there are >ZERO< wires to the "external control interface" on the logic board...moving JMP3 from position 1 to postition 2 didn't change anything.... still can't turn on the heater with the remote. I just don't see how (in the past) the aqualogic controlled the heater without these external control interface lines connected (?????)

stumped.

the only variable here is the new remote....

1600537973808.png
 

ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
21,219
Northern NJ
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Salt Water Generator
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It is using the 2 wire firemans switch for control. See the bottom right of figure 25.

1DCE244D-033B-4021-BB57-9581D464CC5E.png
 

milguy11

Member
Feb 18, 2017
14
Rockledge, FL
update. the outside control box and the indoor wireless keypad.... neither one will turn on the heater. i can turn it on (and it operates just fine) from the max-e-therm control pa
It is using the 2 wire firemans switch for control. See the bottom right of figure 25.

View attachment 163201
roger that! but any idea why....

new remote... (proper Gen 1 for my old as **** Aqua-logic)

and now neither the indoor wireless keypad >or< the wireless remote.... no longer turn the heater on/off ?

this is what has me stumped.... there is a single piece of conduit coming into the heater directly to the aqua-logic control board. I haven't monkey'd with anything in that box... but i guess i need to open it and take a look to see if something is loose. Everything else on the remote works fine... valves, filter on/off ... lights... spa blower.... everything BUT the heater.


update: opened control box on heater, yep - as you stated, 2 wires connected to fireman's switch. these travel to the Aqua-logic and go to the "heater 1" inputs on the AQL control board.

do i need to change something in the AQL programming? just stumped why a new remote that functions for everything else won't turn the heater on!



doug
 
Last edited:

ajw22

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TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
21,219
Northern NJ
Pool Size
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Salt Water Generator
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I don’t think you understand how the fireman’s switch control works. You need to leave the heater on at the heater control pad. The Aqualogic using the fireman’s switch will turn it off when the pool water gets to the heat set point.

I think everything is working fine.
 

milguy11

Member
Feb 18, 2017
14
Rockledge, FL
i hate to disagree (and i certainly thank you for the help!) but....

before the new remote (and the problems with the heater) - we only use the heater for the SPA. The Heater button on the remote we would use to turn on/off the heater as we wanted. for instance, sitting in the spa, if the water got too hot, (before the set point) we would mash the HEATER button the remote and it would turn off.....

it no longer operates like that at all. the only way to turn on the heater is via the membrane keypad on the heater. if i go out right now (with the valves set to pool) and mash the SPA button... the heater will fire. that can't be right.

i am going to check fuses on that switch in the heater.

FYI - when you push the HEATER button on the remote, the display inside changes from "MANUAL OFF" to "AUTO"... but does not turn on/off the heater.

?


doug
 

ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
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First of all confirm that you have a wire connected from the fireman’s switch to your Aqualogic.

The heater will not run with the fireman’s switch open.
 

ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
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absolutely 100% connected from fireman's switch to the AQL control board "HEATER 1"
Great. Now that means the AQL has heat on if the heater is operating.

I don’t know what is going on with your remote but the problem is in the AQL and not the heater.

If you open the fireman’s switch wire the heater should turn off.

The AQL uses the fireman’s switch to cycle the heater to the spa heat set point.