Squeeze last bit of life out of cell?

[Saturn94]

My salt cell, a T-15 installed May 2015, is showing signs of wearing out. It’s reporting salt at 2800 and the Taylor drop test shows 3800. I inspected the cell and it looks clean, as always. It’s still producing FC and having no trouble keeping up with demand.

Any tips for squeezing every bit of life out of the cell before replacing it? I thought I read something here before about setting the cell type to one of the smaller cell types to get the Aqua Rite to read a higher salt level? I’m reluctant to add anymore salt since it’s already well above the recommended level for the Aqua Rite.

I‘m really hoping to at least make it through this season (close in early October) on this cell to avoid the $600 hit right now for a new cell.

I‘m a little disappointed this cell hasn’t lasted longer. The last cell lasted 7 full seasons (this is season 6 on the current cell).

Thanks.

 

[chiefwej]

Based on the life you’re getting out of your cells, you are paying less than $100 per year to chlorinate a 20,000 gallon pool. That is nothing to complain about.

 

[JamesW]

Change the cell type to T-9.

 

[Saturn94]

Based on the life you’re getting out of your cells, you are paying less than $100 per year to chlorinate a 20,000 gallon pool. That is nothing to complain about.

 

[Saturn94]

Change the cell type to T-9.

Thanks. That’s what I thought I remembered reading before.

Is there any possible “risk”, downside, or anything to be aware of when using the T9 setting for a T15 cell?

Again, thank you.

 

[JamesW]

It really shouldn't be a problem.

Unless the plates are corroded and disintegrating where metal flakes are going into the returns, I don't see any issues.

 

[Saturn94]

It really shouldn't be a problem.

Unless the plates are corroded and disintegrating where metal flakes are going into the returns, I don't see any issues.

Thank you.

 

[mas985]

One thing to be aware of is that when you change the type of cell, it changes not only the salt readout but also the amp alarms. So if your current cell has not degraded enough, it could trigger a high alarm and shut off the cell.

 

[Dirk]

Based on the life you’re getting out of your cells, you are paying less than $100 per year to chlorinate a 20,000 gallon pool. That is nothing to complain about.

Ooh, I gotta use that the next time I'm in a thread trying to justify the use/purchase of an SWG. I'd pay $100 a year just for the toting, even if I had to pay for the chlorine above and beyond that. Pretty sweet deal. I should go out today and do something nice for my SWG...

 

[JamesW]

One thing to be aware of is that when you change the type of cell, it changes not only the salt readout but also the amp alarms. So if your current cell has not degraded enough, it could trigger a high alarm and shut off the cell.

I'm not sure, but I think that the T-15 and the T-9 are both 8.0 amps.

 

[Saturn94]

Great info!

For now, the plan is to leave it as is until I get a Low Salt alarm, then try the T9 setting.

Hmmmm......this makes me wonder if I could have squeezed out an 8th season out of that last cell.

Update: Ha! I found the old cell! When the current one goes I’ll see if there is any life left in the old one.

 

[Saturn94]

One thing to be aware of is that when you change the type of cell, it changes not only the salt readout but also the amp alarms. So if your current cell has not degraded enough, it could trigger a high alarm and shut off the cell.

I'm not sure, but I think that the T-15 and the T-9 are both 8.0 amps.

I found these pages in the Diagnostics Manual. There does appear to be a difference in amp range and max amps between the T15 and T9

 

[JamesW]

I don't think that those numbers are accurate for most software versions.

I think that the T-9 and T-15 both use 8.0 amps as the high salt limit for most software versions.

 

[Saturn94]

Interesting. Those max amp numbers do seem high.

I believe the software version on mine is 1.50. The original main board was replaced (under warranty) in 2009.

EDIT: I just noticed the Diagnostic Manual I have is dated 2009 and says Software Version 1.50

 

[JamesW]

I think that most versions use 8 amps. I think that one or two versions use 10 amps, but I'm not sure which ones.

 

[Saturn94]

I think that most versions use 8 amps. I think that one or two versions use 10 amps, but I'm not sure which ones.

I was just editing my post as you were posting.

See my edited post above.

 

[JamesW]

I suspect that yours is probably 8.0 amps regardless of what the manual says.

 

[Saturn94]

I suspect that yours is probably 8.0 amps regardless of what the manual says.

I suspect you are correct. Ten amps just seems really high.

I found a troubleshooting guide on the Hayward site dated 2017, but oddly there’s no mention anywhere about amp or volt levels.

When I give changing the T cell setting a try, I’ll certainly post my experience.

I greatly appreciate the info. After all these years I‘m still learning new stuff about our pool/system.

 

[goody222]

My salt cell, a T-15 installed May 2015, is showing signs of wearing out. It’s reporting salt at 2800 and the Taylor drop test shows 3800. I inspected the cell and it looks clean, as always. It’s still producing FC and having no trouble keeping up with demand.

Any tips for squeezing every bit of life out of the cell before replacing it? I thought I read something here before about setting the cell type to one of the smaller cell types to get the Aqua Rite to read a higher salt level? I’m reluctant to add anymore salt since it’s already well above the recommended level for the Aqua Rite.

I‘m really hoping to at least make it through this season (close in early October) on this cell to avoid the $600 hit right now for a new cell.

I‘m a little disappointed this cell hasn’t lasted longer. The last cell lasted 7 full seasons (this is season 6 on the current cell).

Thanks.

Curious - is that the first time you did the Taylor test? My Taylor test reads 600 higher than the Hayward readout. My eSeasongear SALT-3050 handheld meter only reads about 100 higher. I just keep the salt in band according to the Hayward readout and my cell works fine.

 

[Saturn94]

Yes, this is the first time using the K1766 salt test. Previously, I was using the AquaChek salt test strips, but ran out so I decided to try the K1766.

Normally, the AquaChek strips would read within 100 - 200ppm of the Aqua Rite reading, with the strip normally being the higher reading. At opening this season the delta had widened to about 400ppm, not too surprising given the age of the cell.

The last salt strip test I did recently came up 3650, not too far off the 3800 result from the k1766. Given the amount of salt I’ve added so far this season, I would expect it to be about 3800, right in line with the k1766 result.

With the Aqua Rite currently reading 2800, it’s apparent the delta has widened quite a bit more since spring opening.

I read somewhere around here when using the k1766 to make sure to swirl vigorously between drops, or use the Speedstir (I don‘t have one). Not doing so apparently can result in a false higher reading (I can’t locate that thread at the moment).

I hope you did ok with Isaias and the recent heavy rains! We only got a few inches of rain total and didn’t lose power....whew!