Spa spillover barely spilling over
- Thread starter tmetoyer
- Start date
I have been using the pucks and am new to everything so I have learned the pucks cause the cya? I have no idea how to use the liquid and can't figure out the math app
My pool has always been super clear except for one time when I was out of chlorine. So I don't understand why the cya is an issue? All other levels are within range.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So you live near or in a swamp. So ground water levels matter. Also hot sun shining on the plaster surface.
If you know your ground water is not an issue, you can rent a high powered sump pump from Home Depot and send the effluent to your sewer clean out. Start it in the afternoon and immediately refill.
Or, you can do a No Drain exchange. It is described in Draining - Further Reading
Trichlor pucks are about 40% CYA. So you can use them, but must drain the pool by 50% once your CYA gets to 60.
To use liquid chlorine, you add it DAILY. You test FC and add enough to get into the upper Target range as shown in
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath is pretty easy to use. You enter your test data using the + sign and selecting Log Test Results. You then touch on the parameter you wish to adjust. The app helps you calculate how much chemical to use based on your Target.
The picture you posted above shows a very cloudy pool. The issues you are having indicate you have algae.
If you wish, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. If you have less than 1 ppm FC loss overnight (no pucks in the water or dispenser, pump running) then you likely do not have algae. But I doubt you will pass.
If you know your ground water is not an issue, you can rent a high powered sump pump from Home Depot and send the effluent to your sewer clean out. Start it in the afternoon and immediately refill.
Or, you can do a No Drain exchange. It is described in Draining - Further Reading
Trichlor pucks are about 40% CYA. So you can use them, but must drain the pool by 50% once your CYA gets to 60.
To use liquid chlorine, you add it DAILY. You test FC and add enough to get into the upper Target range as shown in
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath is pretty easy to use. You enter your test data using the + sign and selecting Log Test Results. You then touch on the parameter you wish to adjust. The app helps you calculate how much chemical to use based on your Target.
The picture you posted above shows a very cloudy pool. The issues you are having indicate you have algae.
If you wish, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. If you have less than 1 ppm FC loss overnight (no pucks in the water or dispenser, pump running) then you likely do not have algae. But I doubt you will pass.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yep it's super clear which is why this isn't making sense. Am I missing something? All reads are good and pool is never cloudy. Yet the cya says different
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Can you post a full set of test results from your own kit?
Be sure your FC is in the target range for your CYA. As the charts do not go that high, use 7.5% to 10% of CYA level for your target range.
Be sure your FC is in the target range for your CYA. As the charts do not go that high, use 7.5% to 10% of CYA level for your target range.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So your FC is very, very low. Well below the level needed to keep the pool water sanitary.
Up to you what you do. If you feel what you are doing is working, stay at it. When it doesn't work, and that will happen soon, we are here to help guide you out of the swamp.
Your filter is getting plugged up. That has to be coming from somewhere.
Up to you what you do. If you feel what you are doing is working, stay at it. When it doesn't work, and that will happen soon, we are here to help guide you out of the swamp.
Your filter is getting plugged up. That has to be coming from somewhere.
According to the little chlorine test it should read between like 1.5 to 3. I'm so confused
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That test is the OTO - it is good to see IF you have some chlorine in the water. Not how much.
Their 'Ideal' does not take the FC/CYA ratio into consideration. TFPC does.
In your Poolmath app, enter your 130 ppm CYA. See what the FC range goes to.
Their 'Ideal' does not take the FC/CYA ratio into consideration. TFPC does.
In your Poolmath app, enter your 130 ppm CYA. See what the FC range goes to.
14?
So that's the recommendation if the cya is 130? Sorry I have never even heard of cya until today when I tried out my new kit. My old kit was simple. Just ph., Chlorine, alkalinity. For 4 years it's been crystal clear. Today I find out about this cya and since I've never had issues with cloudiness, I didn't know I had an issue. I'm going to switch to liquid chlorine, once I can figure that out as well. I'd like to continue testing 1x a week, so not sure about that. We just cleaned the filters a few days ago. But they are 4 years old so maybe they need replacing. The pressure seems to read what it always reads. I'm trying to learn all this stuff in one day. Thanks for helping and by the way if the swamp comment was meant to be derogatory, it's not.
So that's the recommendation if the cya is 130? Sorry I have never even heard of cya until today when I tried out my new kit. My old kit was simple. Just ph., Chlorine, alkalinity. For 4 years it's been crystal clear. Today I find out about this cya and since I've never had issues with cloudiness, I didn't know I had an issue. I'm going to switch to liquid chlorine, once I can figure that out as well. I'd like to continue testing 1x a week, so not sure about that. We just cleaned the filters a few days ago. But they are 4 years old so maybe they need replacing. The pressure seems to read what it always reads. I'm trying to learn all this stuff in one day. Thanks for helping and by the way if the swamp comment was meant to be derogatory, it's not.
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No, much of Houston is in a swamp. I have been there way to many times in my past.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,543
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The comment was meant to indicate the presence of high groundwater that could "float" your pool shell.
Like me, I'm sure others have been monitoring this thread and Marty's advice. Since Marty is one of the most knowledgeable experts here, we normally have little to add. Follow his advice...he knows what he's talking about.
Best wishes!
Thanks for jumping in and explaining. As I stated I am trying to understand the lingo, terms, how it all relates, etc. I don't know what I don't know, so to speak.
Ok I am just learning about cya levels and draining. It was pointed out to me that the area I live in has a high water table. You can dig hardly anything and hit water. So it doesn't seem safe to drain half of my pool. If I'm unable to drain is there anything I can do to lower the cya? I'm reading about the exchange method of draining. Is that the better choice? Just assume I know nothing. Because I don't, if you just throw out terms to me I won't understand, thank you.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,879
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40