SOOO many questions!

[Poolkidz]

Hi, new home and pool owners Have been relying on local pool company up to this point. Please forgive my lack of knowledge and questions, and you may need to explain to me like I'm a 5 year old! I have started reading through pool school, as well as several forum questions. Its all a bit of a muddle at the moment. But, I'm here to learn and I want to get a handle on this pool gig asap ... as the $ are flying out the window.

I've included my details in my signature, and I have ordered the TF-100 test kit.

We had the pool company open our pool about 7 days ago. It was green and cloudy. They shocked it with 5 bags. Since then I have vacuumed it (waste) etc and after 2 or 3 days its very clear with only some grit on the bottom. It does have some stains in places on the bottom: grey and other places slightly red).

Got a water analysis this morning (from store while waiting for test kit)
FC 0.4
CC 4.6 (which they said to ignore due to shocking)
ph 7.6
TA 70
CYA > 20
Total Hardness (CH?) 110

They said: Add 8 lbs of Alkalinity, 1 cup of PH minus and 20 lbs of calcium.

Questions:
1. They have on record (from previous owner), correct pool measurements, but say its 18,000 gal. I used the PoolMath and it calculates as 23,000! Which number should I use?
2. On PoolMath .... do I just leave the standard "Targets" on there ...... and just input my "now" numbers? Or do I need to adjust?
3. Thoughts on my next step? Do I follow the Pool store recommendations at this time? or should I do something else?
(forgot to mention on my signature, we have one of those automatic pump chlorinators)

Any other advice at this time would also be appreciated.
Thanks a million.

 

[Mr Bruce]

1. I'd split the difference (20k) and adjust over time based on observations.
2. My "target" numbers are what I put in there last, I don't know what the default is. Here's a link though. Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool
3. I love how the pool store tested FC dangerously low and recommended 3 things that either aren't needed or don't matter and ignored chlorine.

Add a gallon of bleach (not Clorox or something with additives like splashless, scented, etc) every day with the pump running. Post up test results when your kit arrives.

 

[IceShadow]

You have a vinyl liner so you do not need the calcium they’re trying to sell, either.

 

[Poolkidz]

1. I'd split the difference (20k) and adjust over time based on observations.
2. My "target" numbers are what I put in there last, I don't know what the default is. Here's a link though. Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool
3. I love how the pool store tested FC dangerously low and recommended 3 things that either aren't needed or don't matter and ignored chlorine.

Add a gallon of bleach (not Clorox or something with additives like splashless, scented, etc) every day with the pump running. Post up test results when your kit arrives.

Re: the FC. Is that thrown off by the Shock that they did? They said to ignore the CC result. We have one of those automated chlorine dispensers attached to the pump ..... do we just up that, rather than add the bleach directly or both or?
Thanks for the help.

 

[Poolkidz]

You have a vinyl liner so you do not need the calcium they’re trying to sell, either.

Yeah, I've been reading that a lot on here. The pool place are pretty adamant about why its needed, gave me a full flyer on it: especially about the part that it makes the vinyl liner brittle and causes wrinkles (among other things).
I will say though, that even though they tell you what you need, and stick by it, they don't actually over push their products on you.

 

[Mr Bruce]

I would turn that auto-chlorinator to 0 for now and manually add liquid bleach. Anyway you could see what kind of "shock" it was? Bags still in the trash?

I don't actually believe any of those numbers so I'm not sure what did what. If your FC is 0.4 or 5.5 or 10.4 you really aren't going to mess anything up with a bottle of bleach/day. If you don't, algae has a chance to start their thing.

 

[Fast7]

Re: the FC. Is that thrown off by the Shock that they did? They said to ignore the CC result.

No, FC isn't thrown off by the shock. If their test is correct, it is very low, which is why @Mr Bruce advised to add a gallon of bleach every day until your kit arrives to keep things in a holding pattern.
CC on the other hand is very high, perhaps as a result of chlorine oxidizing a lot of algae.

 

[kimkats]

You are well on the way to have a Trouble Free pool and a fuller wallet! You found TFP, ordered a great test kit, and made a great first post!

The others have you covered for what you need to do for now. I am going to let you know that your pH and TA are the most important parts to keeping your liner supple. The CH has little to do with that.

Kim

 

[Poolkidz]

I would turn that auto-chlorinator to 0 for now and manually add liquid bleach. Anyway you could see what kind of "shock" it was? Bags still in the trash?

I don't actually believe any of those numbers so I'm not sure what did what. If your FC is 0.4 or 5.5 or 10.4 you really aren't going to mess anything up with a bottle of bleach/day. If you don't, algae has a chance to start their thing.

Wiil do. Sorry, not sure which shock brand was used. Thank you.

 

[Poolkidz]

Hi,
I received the TF100 kit, so this was my first time using it (error??)
from the k-1000 box
TC 3
pH 7.4
From the rest of the kit
FC 2
CC 3.5
= TC 5.5
CH 125
TA 110
CYA the dot never disappeared, filled the tube to the top, could still see it.

Here's a pic of the pool today.

So, could someone please advise regarding the numbers (and solutions). Is the pool ok to swim in as is?
Thanks so much

 

[IceShadow]

It’s fine to swim in, but you will probably want to add some CYA to bring it to 30 ppm. That will help your chlorine not burn away in the sun. Then you can get chlorine levels maintained around 3-5ppm.

 

[kimkats]

That water looks fine! Jump on in!!!

I would like to address the cc part of your test. If that is correct there is something going on in the water. It could be a testing error so do the FC and cc test use the powder tests again please.

Kim

 

[Poolkidz]

That water looks fine! Jump on in!!!

I would like to address the cc part of your test. If that is correct there is something going on in the water. It could be a testing error so do the FC and cc test use the powder tests again please.

Kim

I just retested the Chlorine and CYA

FC = 1.5
CC = 4
CYA is still clear all the way to the top.

A question about the chlorine test. Its very light pink when I add the power. I add the first reagent until it goes clear. While I am getting the second reagent ready, after 10 or so seconds, the clear liquid has gone pink again (should that happen? or should it be staying clear?) Then I added the second reagent (5 drops).
Am I doing this right?

 

[kimkats]

You are doing is just right. Is it normal for it to go back to pick. No worries!

That CC is telling us there is something in the water trying to be bad. It might be algae. You need to do a SLAM as found in this link: SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain - Trouble Free Pool I would also look behind that light. We have seen some algae farms hiding behind light and such. I would also get a brush of some sort to get the underside of the ladder. Make sure to check in the throat of the skimmer as well.

If you want to swim today you can push the FC up to just under SLAM level while you are enjoying that pretty pool. Then when everyone is out push it to SLAM level.

You DO need to get some CYA (Stabilizer) in the pool to help hold the FC during the day. CYA acts as sunscreen for the FC. You can put it in a sock like you wear and hang it in front of the return. You can also squeeze it to help it dissolve faster.

Kim

 

[Poolkidz]

You are doing is just right. Is it normal for it to go back to pick. No worries!

That CC is telling us there is something in the water trying to be bad. It might be algae. You need to do a SLAM as found in this link: SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain - Trouble Free Pool I would also look behind that light. We have seen some algae farms hiding behind light and such. I would also get a brush of some sort to get the underside of the ladder. Make sure to check in the throat of the skimmer as well.

If you want to swim today you can push the FC up to just under SLAM level while you are enjoying that pretty pool. Then when everyone is out push it to SLAM level.

You DO need to get some CYA (Stabilizer) in the pool to help hold the FC during the day. CYA acts as sunscreen for the FC. You can put it in a sock like you wear and hang it in front of the return. You can also squeeze it to help it dissolve faster.

Kim

Thank you. I'll research to find out how to clean the light. I also have an automatic chlorinator, which was filled when opened by the pool company. Those tabs have CYA (correct) ... should I turn this up (its at 5) to get more chlorine and CYA into the pool?

 

[kimkats]

The tablets will not add FC or CYA fast enough for what needs to be done to get rid of the CC in your water. I would get some powder CYA and hang it in front of the return then use liquid chlorine to get and KEEP your FC up to SLAM level as seen in the FC/CYA chart below in my siggy.

 

[Poolkidz]

The tablets will not add FC or CYA fast enough for what needs to be done to get rid of the CC in your water. I would get some powder CYA and hang it in front of the return then use liquid chlorine to get and KEEP your FC up to SLAM level as seen in the FC/CYA chart below in my siggy.

Thank you. Will do. The pool company water test (detailed on my first post) indicated that the CYA was > 20. You would think if it was low that would have tried to sell me something ... they didn't. So, am a bit apprehensive about adding CYA (if it really is over 20), as I read about all the issues a high CYA can cause (and the limited solutions). All about trusting the kit?

 

[kimkats]

Trust YOUR test! The CYA test is the one they get wrong the most/worst.