Soon to install Edge 40 - questions from an swg new owner

UnderWaterVanya

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 14, 2012
2,668
Mint Hill, NC
Pool Size
13500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Edge-40
I’m installing an Edge 40 soon at my father in laws pool. I’m the pool boy - lol. It’s a vinyl pool getting a new liner and with the cost of liquid chlorine and my father in law aging I’ve decided to install an swg.
All of the pvc plumbing will get replaced at the equipment as the pool is older and I want to remove old joins and add new valves and universals. Currently there’s a Hayward pick feeder that is only really used for vacations.
I’m unsure if I should replace the puck feeder just in case or if that’s silly. If I do keep one does it go after or before the swg in the flow to the pool?
Additionally, I don’t have any automation system outside of a mechanical timer. The pump is a single speed model (I’ve used two speed in the past with mixed results). I’m trying to determine the best way to ensure that the main pump and swg run at the same time, AND the booster pump for the Polaris can’t accidentally be run without the main pump on.
One reason for the concern is that my father in law has mild cognitive decline and his son lives with him and is mentally challenged. They tend to forget what to do with the pool gear and I’m trying to avoid complexity.
Adding full automation isn’t an option. Unclear how long they will stay there. Investing enough to keep the pool useable and fun but not interested in sinking loads into it.

Thoughts?
 
I can comment on the puck feeder, get rid of it :)
I have a 22000 pool and the edge 40 and like it. The biggest advantage is I can go away for 2 weeks and FC is the exact same as when I left.

You can wire the SWG with the pump feed ( experts here can advise better then me ) on that area.
I run my VS pump all day and have the Edge at 30% also running all day.
 
I’m unsure if I should replace the puck feeder just in case or if that’s silly. If I do keep one does it go after or before the swg in the flow to the pool?
As you probably know, trichlor is acidic and may lead to premature wear of SWG cell plates. It would be best to place the tablet feeder after the SWG and ensure a check valve is in place to prevent acidic water from backing up towards the SWG cell.
 
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Current sensing relay. Current Sensing Relay for SWG with Variable Speed pump. (Works with single speed pumps also)
It needs some more thought to add in the booster pump.
I think if I am reading my clock info I can have two circuits controlled on the same clock. I don’t need the. Booster to turn ON automatically as much as I need it to not be able to turn ON when the pump is off. I’m thinking of leaving the manual switch in place and then if they turn it ON it will only run while the pump is on - that booster pump only needs to be used 1-2 times a week in my scenario.
 
I think if I am reading my clock info I can have two circuits controlled on the same clock. I don’t need the. Booster to turn ON automatically as much as I need it to not be able to turn ON when the pump is off. I’m thinking of leaving the manual switch in place and then if they turn it ON it will only run while the pump is on - that booster pump only needs to be used 1-2 times a week in my scenario.
I went through a fairly similar situation on a 20 year old pool when we bought our house. I swapped out the motor on the single speed pump with a VS motor and added a wifi link. I also installed an Edge 40 SWG. I put it and the Polaris booster pump on GE 240v z wave switches that run through our Ring alarm and controlled on a schedule through Alexa. It’s pretty much automated my pool in a somewhat creative way, but I can now remotely schedule the pump, SWG, and the Polaris. The only thing I can’t do is change the % output from the Edge 40, it rarely needs changed, but if I am away and need more FC I just change the runtime of the pump and SWG remotely. Aside from going with a fully automated system, something similar could allow you to help make changes even when you aren’t there to help. It would essentially allow them to never have to remember how to use it properly, or at all once you got it dialed in.

I know you don’t want to drop too much into the pool, and this stuff isn’t super cheap (what is these days?), but certainly far cheaper than a full automation system. I had some of the components already (Ring Alarm, Alexa, Wifi), but they could certainly add to your expense if he doesn’t have them. That said, I could make legit arguments how those specific items would be very helpful and safety/security items for your FIL’s home.
 
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Eric, I did something similar with my 25 year old pool - "poor man's automation" works just fine using Z-Wave / SmartThings / Alexa.
 
Update: pool liner has been replaced which took about 7-8 weeks. SWG cell is plumbed in, puck feeder was discarded rather than replaced. Still working on tuning chemistry, but basic stability using bleach has been established. SWG controller will be wired up today I hope. Salt going in today I hope.

I’ll update with progress once I have more info.

My biggest issue is continued mental decline of my father in law. The stress is pretty high.
 
Eric, I did something similar with my 25 year old pool - "poor man's automation" works just fine using Z-Wave / SmartThings / Alexa.
Father in law has no Internet so remote control isn’t an option using these methods without investing in getting him connectivity. He’s still using a flip phone and dvds. We had him hooked up and even bought him a computer and it worked for a few months then he lost interest and disconnected internet.
 
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Father in law has no Internet so remote control isn’t an option using these methods without investing in getting him connectivity. He’s still using a flip phone and dvds. We had him hooked up and even bought him a computer and it worked for a few months then he lost interest and disconnected internet.
That’s not a bad thing, lot of mean sneaky people in the world trying to still their money. We told my dad lose computer or give up all banking and let us handle it after I found a program he bought that allowed hackers access. He was told it’s updates drivers :(

Once you get it set and adjusted pool life will be great.
 
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More updates and a question:
I’m rewiring the pump to a simple mechanical timer. The old timer died and I replaced it but had the pump simply on a switch for a while until I had time to wrestle with routing the new wiring. I plan to tap this for the SWG of the second taps in the clock so the SWG is only powered up when the pump is powered (I have read this is acceptable). This SWG has an on/off soft switch. Does it remember how it is set? I’m assuming yes. I am about to start adding the salt into the pool, and I want to keep unit off until I’m at a rational salt level, but would prefer to finish wiring and the new setup won’t permit an inline switch easily.

Also the leads are stranded and tinned. They look to thick to directly insert into my clock terminals - I assume I can add some short Solid core extensions with wire nuts to make them fit into the terminals (14/2 copper wire).

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I can answer part of that

It does remember the settings. I installed a smart plug and just set it to turn on and off at the same time my pump does.
In the summer time I run my VS pump 24/7
And set the edge to 3/8 power and let it run 24/7 also.
 
What amperage CB is feeding the pump circuit from the main panel?
If 20A, use 12AWG wire
If 15A, you can use 14AWG wire

For a 220v setup
The hot wires from the circuit breaker (line) go to terminals 1 and 3
The pump and SWG hot wires (load) go to terminals 2 and 4
The ground wires connect together and to the metal timer box.
Be sure to correctly bond (different from ground) the pump, SWG and metal timer box.

After the salt is fully dissolved, let the pump run for 24 hours with the SWG off to allow the salt to fully mix with the pool water.
 
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What amperage CB is feeding the pump circuit from the main panel?
If 20A, use 12AWG wire
If 15A, you can use 14AWG wire

For a 220v setup
The hot wires from the circuit breaker (line) go to terminals 1 and 3
The pump and SWG hot wires (load) go to terminals 2 and 4
The ground wires connect together and to the metal timer box.
Be sure to correctly bond (different from ground) the pump, SWG and metal timer box.

After the salt is fully dissolved, let the pump run for 24 hours with the SWG off to allow the salt to fully mix with the pool water.
15A, which is why I used 14ga. Thanks for confirming.

The timer is in a plastic box. I’m not seeing anywhere to add a bonding wire to the SWG.

I had already fired up the swg before reading this but had let the salt mix in for about 4 hours and I ran the Polaris and brushed a lot then we swam.

This is current situation:
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Salt level 3000ppm. Ideal for this unit is 3500. Range acceptable per the manual is 3000-4500. I was thinking of adding one 40lb bag which should put me in the neighborhood of 3300-3400. Alternatively I could add two bags which should put me about 3600-3800 - is it better to be slightly lower or slightly higher than optimal? (Or is it about the same either way?) 7 bags used so far plus initial bleach to get to 3000ppm.
 
I prefer to stay near the low end of the suggested range.
As long as the SWG is happily making chlorine, no need to change the salt level.
 
Mine ran at 2800 but does seem to work better with levels around 3500.
I like the edge, when you set it at 50% power its runs 24/7 but uses 50% power vs most that are one for a set time and back off. My smart plug measures watts.
Mine is on it's third season and I hope it last for many more :)
 
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